1911Forum
Forum   Reviews   Rules   Legal   Site Supporters & Donations   Advertise


Go Back   1911Forum > 1911 Manufacturers > Ruger


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-03-2011, 01:28 AM
Joe C Joe C is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,219
Ruger SR1911 Review: Part II, the modifications...PICS!




First of all, thank you all for looking at my original thread on this pistol. It has been very enjoyable to review it and hear your feedback. I hope it has helped you in some way and I look forward to doing other reviews in the future.

The modifications:

Mechanical:

- Corrected the guide rod to prevent it from hitting the barrel legs
- Corrected the mag catch to prevent it from hitting the mag follower
- Corrected the slide stop to prevent it from hitting rounds during feeding
- Corrected the frame feed ramp by widening, deepening and polishing
- Corrected the ejection port by lowering it to approx .410 from the bottom of the slide
- Corrected the ejector nose angle for consistent ejection
- Corrected the extractor for both tension and nose position
- Corrected the link slot in the frame for proper clearance
- Corrected the grip screw bushing that were protruding into the frame
- Corrected the breech face for smoother feeding
- Corrected the barrel throat and polished it
- Crowned the barrel
- Welded and re-cut the barrel hood for a tolerance of less than .001 to the breech face
- Cut the chamber to a depth of .905 for best accuracy and reliability
- Replaced the bushing with a match fit MGW stainless bushing (you need a wrench to remove it)
- I.D. of bushing is .58125 O.D. of barrel is .58075 Total tolerance is .0005"
- Cut the Marvel Disconnector slot cut in the slide for smoother function
- Replaced the Ti firing pin with a steel EGW part
- Replaced the 20lb recoil spring with an 18lb Wolf
- Replaced the mainspring with a 23lb Wolf
- Replaced the link with one correctly dimensioned for the barrel legs
- Blended rear of slide, ejector, extractor to match the frame
- Complete trigger job with short roll set at 4lbs 2oz
o Sear at .765 oal
o Hammer hooks at .018
o Disconnector at 1.3015
o Corrected trigger bow in frame
o Tightened MSH to frame
o Corrected sear spring
o Corrected hammer strut

There are a couple of additional things I thought about doing to this pistol that in my opinion would enhance it such as welding and re-cutting the frame rails to fit the slide, fitting a new Kart barrel, replacing the slide stop, hammer, sear, disconnector, fitting a new SS .220" radius grip safety and fitting a new SS stippled Aztec cut MSH. However, in keeping with the idea of the project, that is to keep it affordable to the regular person, I decided to forgo those things for now. The cosmetic stuff was just stuff I wanted to do personally.

Cosmetic work:

- Stippled rear of slide, ejector and extractor
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut top of slide
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut front strap of frame
- Removed all slide logos
- Removed Ruger Warning on frame dust cover
- Boarder cut top of frame
- Hand bevel and blend all edges of slide and frame
- Reblast frame, slide, bushing, plug and trigger

Fired 100 rounds of mixed loads and bullets with zero malfunctions as a final function test. Total round count to date before and after modifications is 325 with zero malfunctions.

As a final note, I have also come to the conclusion that the MSH is mim as are the sights from what I can tell. The MSH is VERY hard and all three parts have the same casting marks on them in various places as the other mim parts but I could be incorrect. Also, after checking with a different kind of cold blue I have determined that the MSH and grip safety appear to be carbon and not stainless as previously believed. One other note is that it appears that a .220" grip safety could be fit very nicely without having to weld anything onto the tangs of the frame.









Respectfully,
__________________
Respectfully,
Joe Chambers
www.chamberscustom.com
"Obsessibly Reliable, Accurate and Beautiful"
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-03-2011, 02:23 AM
CrookedShooter CrookedShooter is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 274
Wow Joe. You are the man. I think you may have just earned my business. lol
Seriously, prob when I get my second one I will send you this one. How much are talking to pretty much do the same thing minus maybe a few of the cosmetics.

Nice work man.

And oh yeah.... about cutting and reworking the frame rails to fit the slide and the .0005 tol on the bushing... and I thought us machinist were anal. I'll keep my +/- .003 thou or more and call it a day. lol

Edit - I just checked out your website man and I am speechless.

Last edited by CrookedShooter; 06-03-2011 at 02:31 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-03-2011, 04:52 AM
DRYHUMOR DRYHUMOR is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 610
Thanks for removing the "billboards" and warnings, they always hurt my eyes....

Looks good
__________________
1911s? A few..........
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-03-2011, 05:29 AM
AlabamaLEO AlabamaLEO is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 722
you "corrected" all that?! that gun must have been a POS!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-03-2011, 08:12 AM
Joe C Joe C is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrookedShooter View Post
Wow Joe. You are the man. I think you may have just earned my business. lol
Seriously, prob when I get my second one I will send you this one. How much are talking to pretty much do the same thing minus maybe a few of the cosmetics.

Nice work man.

And oh yeah.... about cutting and reworking the frame rails to fit the slide and the .0005 tol on the bushing... and I thought us machinist were anal. I'll keep my +/- .003 thou or more and call it a day. lol

Edit - I just checked out your website man and I am speechless.
Thank you sir, it would be a pleasure I'm sure. Give me a ring or e-mail any time to discuss the details of what you would like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlabamaLEO View Post
you "corrected" all that?! that gun must have been a POS!
Actually, no, it was, in my opinion, a lot better than many other production and "semi-custom" 1911's I've seen. Many of the mechanical mods were very small adjustments to bring things up to my personal requirements. Check out the first part of the review that includes a technical description as well as a range report to see what I mean if you are interested. Overall, out of the box the Ruger is a solid pistol in my opinion.

Respectfully,
__________________
Respectfully,
Joe Chambers
www.chamberscustom.com
"Obsessibly Reliable, Accurate and Beautiful"
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-03-2011, 08:47 AM
MotorSeven MotorSeven is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 1,478
Joe, what kind of accuracy are you getting now? You did a lot of work there to make it better. The only thing I do not care for is stipling on the front strap....checkering looks classier..imho.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-03-2011, 09:27 AM
AlabamaLEO AlabamaLEO is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
Thank you sir, it would be a pleasure I'm sure. Give me a ring or e-mail any time to discuss the details of what you would like.



Actually, no, it was, in my opinion, a lot better than many other production and "semi-custom" 1911's I've seen. Many of the mechanical mods were very small adjustments to bring things up to my personal requirements. Check out the first part of the review that includes a technical description as well as a range report to see what I mean if you are interested. Overall, out of the box the Ruger is a solid pistol in my opinion.

Respectfully,
thank you for the reply. i meant no ill regard towards Ruger as i know they make some fine guns....it just threw me when you used the term "corrected".
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-03-2011, 10:10 AM
pj1843 pj1843 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlabamaLEO View Post
you "corrected" all that?! that gun must have been a POS!
well compared to a custom gunsmiths custom works of art, sure. But its like taking a 5 star chef to lunch at a burger joint, there will be things he would like to change to make it better, but for me and almost everyone else those burgers would be delicious. Just like this Ruger, for most purposes its a great firearm, for a custom gunsmith of course he's going to change alot of little things, doesn't mean the gun is bad, just could be better and he knows how to add those extra spices
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-03-2011, 12:23 PM
speedpower speedpower is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 225
I agree, stripling is ugly

Maybe should have use the word adjusted instead of corrected since there is nothing wrong with the gun to begin with
__________________

1911 sure is addicting!

COTEP
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-03-2011, 01:46 PM
MotorSeven MotorSeven is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 1,478
Quote:
Originally Posted by pj1843 View Post
well compared to a custom gunsmiths custom works of art, sure. But its like taking a 5 star chef to lunch at a burger joint, there will be things he would like to change to make it better, but for me and almost everyone else those burgers would be delicious. Just like this Ruger, for most purposes its a great firearm, for a custom gunsmith of course he's going to change alot of little things, doesn't mean the gun is bad, just could be better and he knows how to add those extra spices
Exactly...industry "spec's" vs a gunsmiths "spec's' are two different animals.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-03-2011, 02:36 PM
Joe C Joe C is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorSeven View Post
Joe, what kind of accuracy are you getting now? You did a lot of work there to make it better. The only thing I do not care for is stipling on the front strap....checkering looks classier..imho.
Well, before the mods I was getting around 4-5" at 25 yards off the bench...when I shot it yesterday with the same ammo, same range, same rest, same nut behind the trigger, with similar winds as before, after the mods, I was getting right at 2"... Not a bad improvement. I have a feeling that if the slide to frame fit was done and the barrel was changed out with a properly fit Kart barrel it would go sub 1.5" at 50 yards with no problem...

Respectfully,
__________________
Respectfully,
Joe Chambers
www.chamberscustom.com
"Obsessibly Reliable, Accurate and Beautiful"
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-03-2011, 03:19 PM
SemperFi1977m SemperFi1977m is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 751
are all the black parts carbon steel, blacked-out SS, or is it a combination of both? Knowing which parts are what will be great to know...since I imagine going all-stainless will be a common cosmetic mod on SR1911's.

Also, any recommendations on grit, etc when blasting small parts to resemble the Ruger's finish?

Nice Job as always Joe! ....and thanks for taking the time to share with us again.
__________________
COTEP #0443 USMC#0311
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-03-2011, 05:31 PM
Texaspridejb Texaspridejb is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 154
Joe c are you interested in doing that package minus the stripling for others? if so e-mail me with a price, I like your work
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-03-2011, 05:32 PM
Joe C Joe C is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by SemperFi1977m View Post
are all the black parts carbon steel, blacked-out SS, or is it a combination of both? Knowing which parts are what will be great to know...since I imagine going all-stainless will be a common cosmetic mod on SR1911's.

Also, any recommendations on grit, etc when blasting small parts to resemble the Ruger's finish?

Nice Job as always Joe! ....and thanks for taking the time to share with us again.
From what I can tell, they are all made of carbon. I thought at first that the GS and MSH were SS but after checking them with a different type of cold blue I found that they appear to be carbon.

I used sand blasting to do this one as I prefer the darker look but I think that glass beads would match the finish very well. YMMV.

And you're welcome.

Respectfully,
__________________
Respectfully,
Joe Chambers
www.chamberscustom.com
"Obsessibly Reliable, Accurate and Beautiful"
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-03-2011, 10:42 PM
hankfan79 hankfan79 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Alabama
Posts: 285
Did you happen to take any before and after pics?
__________________
"Forgiveness Is Between Him and God...It's My Job To Arrange The Meeting"
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-03-2011, 10:49 PM
crashoverrideplik crashoverrideplik is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 4,891
Quote:
Originally Posted by SemperFi1977m View Post
are all the black parts carbon steel, blacked-out SS, or is it a combination of both? Knowing which parts are what will be great to know...since I imagine going all-stainless will be a common cosmetic mod on SR1911's.

Also, any recommendations on grit, etc when blasting small parts to resemble the Ruger's finish?
This is exactly what I'm going to do on my second Ruger. I want a all stainless gun (and a magwell) and it will be my new IPSC gun.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-05-2011, 09:05 AM
armedinAz armedinAz is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 80
Joe,

Did you conclude the Ruger is a 4-5" gun out of the box? You noted windy conditions when you shot it stock.
__________________
slowly learning the 1911
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-05-2011, 12:29 PM
1911crazy 1911crazy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: usa
Posts: 2,502
I'm not sure about getting one now.
__________________
Ask yourself is what i'm about to do SAFE???? (From the national timber fellers association)

Gun Safety never sleeps or takes a day off, besafe do it right......
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-05-2011, 02:13 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
First of all, thank you all for looking at my original thread on this pistol. It has been very enjoyable to review it and hear your feedback. I hope it has helped you in some way and I look forward to doing other reviews in the future.

The modifications:

Mechanical:

- Corrected the guide rod to prevent it from hitting the barrel legs
- Corrected the mag catch to prevent it from hitting the mag follower
- Corrected the slide stop to prevent it from hitting rounds during feeding


- Corrected the ejector nose angle for consistent ejection
- Corrected the extractor for both tension and nose position

- Corrected the grip screw bushing that were protruding into the frame
- Corrected the breech face for smoother feeding




- Replaced the 20lb recoil spring with an 18lb Wolf

- Replaced the link with one correctly dimensioned for the barrel legs




Respectfully,
Thank you for the excellent report. I am not a gunsmith. However, I take it from your report that since the original testing revealed no malfunctions, that the majority of the things listed in your report are "adjustments" achieved through a few file strokes.

My SR1911 has fired 500 flawless rounds, and until I read your report, could discern no need for the services of a gunsmith. However, I have a few questions:

Doesn't your replacement of the titanium firing pin with steel make the gun less likely to pass a drop test (or more likely to fire if dropped on its muzzle)?

What was the weight of the mainspring you removed from the pistol? (You said you replaced with a 23 pound spring.)

Assuming just the work listed above were to be performed on my Ruger SR1911, what is the cost, not counting shipping, and how long would it take?

Thanks again for the excellent report! Very informative concerning what you found on your pistol. Good show!

Shawn McCarver

Last edited by shawn mccarver; 06-05-2011 at 02:19 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-05-2011, 02:19 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
First of all, thank you all for looking at my original thread on this pistol. It has been very enjoyable to review it and hear your feedback. I hope it has helped you in some way and I look forward to doing other reviews in the future.

The modifications:

Mechanical:

- Corrected the guide rod to prevent it from hitting the barrel legs
- Corrected the mag catch to prevent it from hitting the mag follower
- Corrected the slide stop to prevent it from hitting rounds during feeding
- Corrected the frame feed ramp by widening, deepening and polishing
- Corrected the ejection port by lowering it to approx .410 from the bottom of the slide
- Corrected the ejector nose angle for consistent ejection
- Corrected the extractor for both tension and nose position
- Corrected the link slot in the frame for proper clearance
- Corrected the grip screw bushing that were protruding into the frame
- Corrected the breech face for smoother feeding
- Corrected the barrel throat and polished it
- Crowned the barrel
- Welded and re-cut the barrel hood for a tolerance of less than .001 to the breech face
- Cut the chamber to a depth of .905 for best accuracy and reliability
- Replaced the bushing with a match fit MGW stainless bushing (you need a wrench to remove it)

- I.D. of bushing is .58125 O.D. of barrel is .58075 Total tolerance is .0005"
- Cut the Marvel Disconnector slot cut in the slide for smoother function
- Replaced the Ti firing pin with a steel EGW part
- Replaced the 20lb recoil spring with an 18lb Wolf
- Replaced the mainspring with a 23lb Wolf
- Replaced the link with one correctly dimensioned for the barrel legs
- Blended rear of slide, ejector, extractor to match the frame
- Complete trigger job with short roll set at 4lbs 2oz
o Sear at .765 oal
o Hammer hooks at .018
o Disconnector at 1.3015

o Corrected trigger bow in frame
o Tightened MSH to frame
o Corrected sear spring
o Corrected hammer strut


There are a couple of additional things I thought about doing to this pistol that in my opinion would enhance it such as welding and re-cutting the frame rails to fit the slide, fitting a new Kart barrel, replacing the slide stop, hammer, sear, disconnector, fitting a new SS .220" radius grip safety and fitting a new SS stippled Aztec cut MSH. However, in keeping with the idea of the project, that is to keep it affordable to the regular person, I decided to forgo those things for now. The cosmetic stuff was just stuff I wanted to do personally.

Cosmetic work:

- Stippled rear of slide, ejector and extractor
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut top of slide
- Stippled and Aztec pattern cut front strap of frame
- Removed all slide logos
- Removed Ruger Warning on frame dust cover
- Boarder cut top of frame
- Hand bevel and blend all edges of slide and frame
- Reblast frame, slide, bushing, plug and trigger

Fired 100 rounds of mixed loads and bullets with zero malfunctions as a final function test. Total round count to date before and after modifications is 325 with zero malfunctions.

As a final note, I have also come to the conclusion that the MSH is mim as are the sights from what I can tell. The MSH is VERY hard and all three parts have the same casting marks on them in various places as the other mim parts but I could be incorrect. Also, after checking with a different kind of cold blue I have determined that the MSH and grip safety appear to be carbon and not stainless as previously believed. One other note is that it appears that a .220" grip safety could be fit very nicely without having to weld anything onto the tangs of the frame.

Respectfully,
Thank you for the excellent report. I am not a gunsmith. However, I take it from your report that since the original testing revealed no malfunctions, that the majority of the things listed are "adjustments" achieved through a few file strokes rather than "corrections" requiring serious modifications. Thus, my question here relates to the items NOT underlined.

My SR1911 has fired 500 flawless rounds, and until I read your report, could discern no need for the services of a gunsmith. However, I have a few questions:

Doesn't your replacement of the titanium firing pin with steel make the gun less likely to pass a drop test (or more likely to fire if dropped on its muzzle)?

What was the weight of the mainspring you removed from the pistol? (You said you replaced with a 23 pound spring.)

Assuming all of the work NOT underlined above were to be performed on my Ruger SR1911, what is the cost, not counting shipping, and how long would it take?

Thanks again for the excellent report! Very informative concerning what you found on your pistol. Good show!

Shawn McCarver
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 06-05-2011, 02:42 PM
Joe C Joe C is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by armedinAz View Post
Joe,

Did you conclude the Ruger is a 4-5" gun out of the box? You noted windy conditions when you shot it stock.
Considering the wind, the heavy stock trigger pull and the guy behind it, no. I think out of the box it can do better as was illustrated by one of the 5 shot strings shot during the lulls. And that is about standard from my experience from most stock production guns.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn mccarver View Post
Thank you for the excellent report. I am not a gunsmith. However, I take it from your report that since the original testing revealed no malfunctions, that the majority of the things listed are "adjustments" achieved through a few file strokes rather than "corrections" requiring serious modifications. Thus, my question here relates to the items NOT underlined.

My SR1911 has fired 500 flawless rounds, and until I read your report, could discern no need for the services of a gunsmith. However, I have a few questions:

Doesn't your replacement of the titanium firing pin with steel make the gun less likely to pass a drop test (or more likely to fire if dropped on its muzzle)?

What was the weight of the mainspring you removed from the pistol? (You said you replaced with a 23 pound spring.)

Assuming all of the work NOT underlined above were to be performed on my Ruger SR1911, what is the cost, not counting shipping, and how long would it take?

Thanks again for the excellent report! Very informative concerning what you found on your pistol. Good show!

Shawn McCarver
Shawn,
Thank you for your questions.

To start, while many of the mods I did on here are not "major" (i.e. barrel replacement) most of them do require quite a bit more than a "few file strokes". Namely, they require the knowledge of how the gun should work verses how it currently works and not only what changes to make but how to make them and why they are made.

As for the firing pin, I personally am more concerned with the gun not going off when needed due to a light firing pin strike because of the Ti pin and super strong FPspring that was installed. I have never seen a gun go off when dropped. I have seen them NOT go off when the Ti pin assembly is in place and that could get a person killed in the wrong situation. Keep in mind that Ruger was very smart in using the Ti pin and long spring as they wanted to be able to get into the markets like CA that require insanely dramatic drop tests that do not, in my opinion, represent real life situations.

I believe the mainspring I removed was a 25lb...or at least that is what it weighed on my scale. It could however have been less...I replaced it to remove any doubt.

As for price, I'm sorry but I do not discuss such matters on public forums as a matter of professionalism. If you would like to e-mail me privately I would be glad to assist you if possible.

Thank you for your questions guys and for your time in reading what I have written. I still contend that the new Ruger SR1911 is a great pistol, especially for the money. The modified test gun sold in less than 24 hours and I wish it was not going as it is in my opinion a very solid gun. Perhaps I'll get another of my own someday.

Respectfully,
__________________
Respectfully,
Joe Chambers
www.chamberscustom.com
"Obsessibly Reliable, Accurate and Beautiful"
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 06-05-2011, 02:56 PM
chuntaro chuntaro is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Near the Rio Bravo
Posts: 7,731
Joe:

I forget who said it but didn't someone say there was no extra charge for ordinary. I find your original review and post modification review very comprehensive and revealing. As a consumer, I now know what I need to know as opposed to what the industry in it's current state chooses to reveal. Thanks for your efforts.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 11-18-2011, 12:04 AM
Chef With A Gun Chef With A Gun is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 81
Great Mods! I see your serial number is in the high 05900's. I picked up mine in Sept and its at 0068X. Found another guy that got one at the same place I did in the 500's.

Last edited by Chef With A Gun; 11-18-2011 at 12:12 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 07-09-2012, 09:43 PM
4T4Mag 4T4Mag is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1
I am wondering what method you used to remove the Ruger "billboards"? I love Ruger, it is so classy without the stamp.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-09-2012, 10:15 PM
crashoverrideplik crashoverrideplik is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 4,891
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4T4Mag View Post
I am wondering what method you used to remove the Ruger "billboards"? I love Ruger, it is so classy without the stamp.
Bead blast cabinet. 80 grit @ 85 PSI.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:26 AM.


NOTICE TO USERS OF THIS SITE: By continuing to use this site, you certify that you have read and agree to abide by the Legal Terms of Use. All information, data, text or other materials ("Content") posted to this site by any users are the sole responsibility of those users. 1911Forum does not guarantee the accuracy, integrity, or quality of such Content.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2011 1911Forum.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved