1911Forum
Forum   Reviews   Rules   Legal   Site Supporters & Donations   Advertise


Go Back   1911Forum > Hardware & Accessories > Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-05-2011, 08:24 AM
Texasflyboy Texasflyboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Age: 50
Posts: 172
Colt Series 80 Adjustable Trigger Installation Note




When installing an adjustable match or set trigger in a Colt Series 80 model handgun with the Series 80 safety system, it's important to note the follow limitation:

When adjusting the set screw of an adjustable trigger on a series 80 pistol, you cannot set the travel to minimum as you would with a non series 80 pistol.

The Series 80 safety system requires a minimum amount of trigger travel for the mechanism to allow the firing pin block to move out of the way of the firing pin.

If you set the adjustable trigger for a minimum travel distance, and the Series 80 parts do not get the required amount of travel, then light firing pin strikes will happen as the firing pin travel will be impeded by the partially lifted firing pin block.

The cure, and correct installation method, is to set the adjustable trigger so that the lever on top of the frame next to the hammer is lifted to full travel by the trigger pull. You can easily see this by removing the slide, and then pulling the trigger and observing how far the safety level lifts out of the frame. If the lever rises to full travel, then you have set the adjustable trigger correctly for your Colt Series 80 handgun.

Ignore above. The correct fix is as described below to adjust the timing. Thanks again to LOG and others.

Last edited by Texasflyboy; 04-05-2011 at 01:32 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-05-2011, 08:47 AM
Bob Rodgers Bob Rodgers is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Mountain Home, Arkansas
Posts: 1,939
Your advice is good for box stock pistols, and should always be kept in mind.

However, if the safety system is timed correctly, with all of the slack removed, the firing pin is freed by the the trigger pre-travel. In that case the over travel can be set as in any other pistol.
__________________
Bob Rodgers
www.rodgerspistolsmithing.com
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-05-2011, 11:07 AM
ssn vet ssn vet is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: The Dark Side of the Moon
Posts: 256
Quote:
the firing pin is freed by the the trigger pre-travel
I must be one of the lucky ones, as my stock S-80 Commander has a little less than 1/16" take up, which totally raises the lever, and then breaks crisply at 4.75 lbs (as measured on a Lyman digital), with no perceivable over travel.
__________________
aint no slack in Fast Attack
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-05-2011, 11:26 AM
RickB's Avatar
RickB RickB is online now
1911 Aficionado
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 17,056
When I installed an overtravel screw-equipped trigger in my S80, the firing pin was clear before I got to the point where the sear was clear. I tested the firing pin for free movement, every 1/4 turn of the trigger screw, and was surprised how early in the process it cleared. I was expecting to have to accept more overtravel than I may have wanted, to accomodate S80. Just like the trigger adjustment itself, each gun is going to be a bit different.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-05-2011, 11:29 AM
log man log man is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Riverside County,CA
Posts: 10,800
I saw this this morning and let it go as it is true perhaps for a stock Series 80 , but as Bob mentions it isn't the last word. Using over travel to release the firing pin block works, but can be risky, a light intended pull may result in a light strike.
I cock the hammer and engage the thumb safety, now pull the trigger against the safety and check to see if the firing pin is free, I tune them so they are.

The first easy stage of tuning is to use the "N" plunger lever, that is the upper one, and provides the most lift, these are often designated as for the Gold Cups, that's the one you want, about $3. If that still doesn't improve the timing enough I weld a bump on the bottom of the trigger bar lever where it contacts the trigger bow. Then fit it. Just right when the slide will still just go on. You will notice a vast improvement as the softest touch will begin the plunger depression, and the over travel adjustment will not affect the timing.

LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...



Last edited by log man; 04-05-2011 at 11:33 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-05-2011, 12:57 PM
Texasflyboy Texasflyboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Age: 50
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by log man View Post
The first easy stage of tuning is to use the "N" plunger lever, that is the upper one, and provides the most lift, these are often designated as for the Gold Cups, that's the one you want, about $3. If that still doesn't improve the timing enough I weld a bump on the bottom of the trigger bar lever where it contacts the trigger bow. Then fit it. Just right when the slide will still just go on. You will notice a vast improvement as the softest touch will begin the plunger depression, and the over travel adjustment will not affect the timing.LOG
Can you say that again in more detail? What is the "N" plunger lever? I want to try this but want to be sure I understand the process. I initially thought to modify the trigger bow to take up the slack and improve the timing, but I like your idea better.

Last edited by Texasflyboy; 04-05-2011 at 01:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-05-2011, 01:22 PM
log man log man is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Riverside County,CA
Posts: 10,800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasflyboy View Post
Can you say that again in more detail? What is the "N" plunger lever? I want to try this but want to be sure I understand the process. I initially thought to modify the trigger bow to take up the slack and improve the timing, but I like your idea better.
The only thing that could be done to the bow would be a build up only where the trigger bar lever contacts. The point being that to affect timing the hammer release point must be after the firing pin block release and is probably your thought as well. Using the "N" plunger lever will get most in tune alone, and welding will get the rest, "N" lever or not. Here's a "1" plunger lever and the welded trigger bar lever. It was just welded for a friend in the picture, it gets flushed on the sides, and polished on the contact point.

More about the "N" plunger lever, the Gold Cup had an adjustable trigger and the previous levers did not provide enough lift if the trigger was adjusted for little over travel so a lever was made that lifts more/sooner and is marked N. Others where 1, 2, and 3, I believe. but are all less lift than the N. It isn't identified by the N, but this is the N lever.



LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...



Last edited by log man; 04-05-2011 at 01:28 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-05-2011, 01:29 PM
Texasflyboy Texasflyboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Age: 50
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by log man View Post
The only thing that could be done to the bow would be a build up only where the trigger bar lever contacts.
Got it. I just got off the phone with Teddy Jacobson. He gave me the run down on the levers which is exactly what you posted.

He seems to have cornered the market on "N" levers.

Thanks again.

Last edited by Texasflyboy; 04-06-2011 at 08:06 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-05-2011, 01:36 PM
Texasflyboy Texasflyboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Age: 50
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by log man View Post
The first easy stage of tuning is to use the "N" plunger lever, that is the upper one, and provides the most lift, these are often designated as for the Gold Cups, that's the one you want, about $3.
Teddy wants about $25 each for his "N" levers. Anyone got another source for this $3 part?

Teddy says he bought all Colt had before they stopped making the part.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-05-2011, 02:14 PM
ssn vet ssn vet is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: The Dark Side of the Moon
Posts: 256
Funny.... the link to Midway in Log's post says "available"
__________________
aint no slack in Fast Attack
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-05-2011, 02:17 PM
Texasflyboy Texasflyboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Age: 50
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssn vet View Post
Funny.... the link to Midway in Log's post says "available"
Darn. Didn't see that. Thank you!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-05-2011, 02:36 PM
log man log man is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Riverside County,CA
Posts: 10,800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasflyboy View Post
Teddy wants about $25 each for his "N" levers. Anyone got another source for this $3 part?

Teddy says he bought all Colt had before they stopped making the part.
Teddy has to make money I guess, but $25 from a $3 part available to anyone is a stretch in fair practice, rumored he will tell you they are not available in stores, and correct, not Home Depot anyway, but Midway is a good source for Colt parts. Colt is still using them as they still make Series 80 1911's.

LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...


Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-05-2011, 03:03 PM
Irishlad Irishlad is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,625
Cylinder and Slide used to have them also. I bought a "NM" lever several years ago...$5.00..maybe... I can't remember.

Nice work and picture Log man.

That modified trigger bar lever would be a great part if offered. No welding, just filing for us "hacks".
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-05-2011, 03:05 PM
Kruzr's Avatar
Kruzr Kruzr is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Surf City, USA
Posts: 12,926
I think I read the $25 ones are jeweled.

Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-05-2011, 03:12 PM
log man log man is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Riverside County,CA
Posts: 10,800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irishlad View Post
Cylinder and Slide used to have them also. I bought a "NM" lever several years ago...$5.00..maybe... I can't remember.

Nice work and picture Log man.

That modified trigger bar lever would be a great part if offered. No welding, just filing for us "hacks".
I guess no one wants to have them cut for the possible numbers sold. Welding them is not a big deal, and works well. The "N" lever will solve most. Jeweled/bumped with a polish pad on a Dremel. I slide them around on 2000 paper.

LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences!
Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous...


Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:52 PM.


NOTICE TO USERS OF THIS SITE: By continuing to use this site, you certify that you have read and agree to abide by the Legal Terms of Use. All information, data, text or other materials ("Content") posted to this site by any users are the sole responsibility of those users. 1911Forum does not guarantee the accuracy, integrity, or quality of such Content.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2011 1911Forum.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved