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  #1  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:11 PM
1C3 MAN 1C3 MAN is offline
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My nickel tactical is pitting




okay guys i bought a RIA 1911 tactical with the brushed nickel finish a couple months ago and everything was great.

its been about a month since i took it out to the range and when i open my safe and take a look at it. Its pitting really badly over the whole entire gun. its a rust color and i tried to oil the gun a wipe it off but thats wasn't happening.

so what can i do to fix this?

and i clean and oil my gun after every outing.
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:17 PM
Maddog521 Maddog521 is offline
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Last edited by Maddog521; 01-05-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:35 PM
Tackdriver68 Tackdriver68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1C3 MAN View Post

and i clean and oil my gun after every outing.

What do you use for oil and is there a desiccant in the safe? Safes, especially small ones can be a magnet for humidity and condensation. Some oils on the market,including those being sold by big names in the gun industry work extremely poor as rust preventatives.
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:50 PM
1C3 MAN 1C3 MAN is offline
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Yes i have desiccant packs in my safe.

and i live in vegas so i really doubt its from humidity.
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2011, 07:43 AM
Maddog521 Maddog521 is offline
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1C3 Since you live in Vegas you can drive it out there.
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2011, 10:09 AM
Tackdriver68 Tackdriver68 is offline
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The moisture had to come from somewhere then.......maybe the oil was contaminated.....?
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2011, 01:54 PM
LDJ LDJ is offline
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Hope you didn't oil it with Hoppes #9 or some other copper solvent. Nickel is plated over copper. The copper solvent gun cleaners will cause the nickel to lift off the copper base.

I actually use CLP on the Matte nickel of my tactical and Hoppes only on the INSIDE of the barrel.

Call Nevada and see what the great folks in Pahrump can do for you.
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  #8  
Old 01-12-2011, 01:34 PM
1C3 MAN 1C3 MAN is offline
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Okay guys i gave them a call and they told me its not covered under warranty.
And thats its my fault. I did use hops #9 when i first got the gun but then i read that its bad for the gun so i been using CLP.

So now im stuck with a gun thats pitting thats only 6 months old. needless to say im not impressed at all with their customer service or their product.
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2011, 04:26 PM
Maddog521 Maddog521 is offline
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Can you post a picture?
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  #10  
Old 01-12-2011, 05:15 PM
sousana sousana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDJ View Post
Hope you didn't oil it with Hoppes #9 or some other copper solvent. Nickel is plated over copper. The copper solvent gun cleaners will cause the nickel to lift off the copper base.

I actually use CLP on the Matte nickel of my tactical and Hoppes only on the INSIDE of the barrel.

Call Nevada and see what the great folks in Pahrump can do for you.
BINGO +1

Have it refinished.
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  #11  
Old 01-12-2011, 06:58 PM
aric aric is offline
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.

Last edited by aric; 03-29-2011 at 06:24 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2011, 07:02 PM
FoolsErrand FoolsErrand is offline
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Have a bit of pity for the guy.

Did Armscor/RIA say if they'd refinish it for you and what the cost would be? It might be time to research the cost to have it refinished elsewhere, as well. Check out Robar.

http://www.robarguns.com/
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  #13  
Old 01-12-2011, 07:07 PM
Auto Mag Auto Mag is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1C3 MAN View Post
Okay guys i gave them a call and they told me its not covered under warranty.
And thats its my fault. I did use hops #9 when i first got the gun but then i read that its bad for the gun so i been using CLP.

So now im stuck with a gun thats pitting thats only 6 months old. needless to say im not impressed at all with their customer service or their product.
You are not impressed with their customer service or their product because it is not a warranty item!! On the other hand if they did cover it you would be a happy camper and all would be well again.

I am sorry for your problem with your RIA but the Hoppes #9 did the damage.

Hang in there 1C3 MAN, it is still a fine 1911!!!
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  #14  
Old 01-12-2011, 09:30 PM
1C3 MAN 1C3 MAN is offline
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Thats funny that you say that its a well known fact.
Because Dave himself said he just learned that you cant use hoppe's on nickel finishes.

And no even if they would have refinished it for me i wouldn't be satisfied. because NO GUN SHOULD BE PITTING after only 6 months.

also i just read on the bottle of hoppes not to SOAK nickel finished guns in hoppes. to just wipe them off after use which i did.
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  #15  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:13 AM
1911rocks 1911rocks is offline
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In defense of IC3Man

Electroplated Nickel Finishes are applied to a Copper base coat (electroplated) called a Strike. Nickel does not bond well to steel. Copper does bond well to steel, and Nickel bonds well to Copper. There are two methods of Electrolytic Deposition that I'm aware of and I have no clue which one RIA uses (Pulse or Pulse-Reverse).
If there is any oil or water on the surface of the Steel or the Copper there will be microscopic voids. If these voids are on the Steel then no Copper bond, subsequently there is a channel to the Steel. The interesting thing is that this column is not a void/cone with a "top coat" of Nickel. It's a hole with striations bottoming out at the steel, therefore there's direct access to the Copper. The same holds true if the moisture/oil/contaminate is on the Copper.
These deficits cannot be seen with the Human eye without some serious magnification. The Nickel itself is not the problem, it's the access to the Copper beneath. It's the contact of the Ammonia with the Copper that starts the degradation. In the 60s, 70s,& 80s, S&W and Colt would repair these voids if they revealed themselves, but, IIRC there was a limited time frame that they would do so. So, in defense of IC3Man, there have been many old Colts and S&Ws cleaned with the old Hoppes #9 with the higher levels of Ammonia, with little or no effect. It's a shame that RIA does not consider this a warranted issue. But, it's also has a lot to do with the the depth of the pockets of the manufacturer. Lastly, Nickel has limited robustness, in this day and age there are many better finish options...like Parkerization. But, Nickel has an eye appeal some folks choose and therefore, Caveat Emptor...My rant has concluded.
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  #16  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:41 AM
NIGHT AL NIGHT AL is offline
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Would the fact that it was a brushed finish have anything to do with it, if it were wiped with a wet rag with Hoppe's seems like the rougher finish would hold the liquid more than the polished would?
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  #17  
Old 01-13-2011, 07:29 AM
1911rocks 1911rocks is offline
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Brushed vs Bright

NightAl: No major difference unless it is not a "brushed", but, instead a brush technique plated object. A Brush Plating finish is considerably thinner. You use to be able to buy "Brush Plating kits. The Brushed Nickel finish is a regular Nickel Finish over a non polished finish, then the Nickel receives a light surface brushing. Remember that Nickle is no where near as hard as the Gun's steel on some other finishes (NP3, Hard Chrome, CeraKote, et al). Nickel is more lubricious than Steel or Parkerized Steel. When they started Electroplating firearms there weren't many other finish options. Now days it's more decorative than protective when compared with other finish choices. Nickel is as good as a laser or weapons light for disclosing your position.
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  #18  
Old 01-13-2011, 11:34 AM
DCColt DCColt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aric View Post
You ruined the finish by not doing basic research on a well known dacades old topic and its RIA's fault?
thats a bit harsh IMO.
It may BE a decades old story, but that doesn't mean that he SHOULD have had knowledge of it unless he had specifically seen an article on it or researched it somewhere.

Does the RIA literature say anything about DON'T USE such and such..... to clean nickle plated guns?

IMO if they don't then you should get a refinish job by them.
It PROBABLY had nothing to do with the Hoppes anyway! It was probably just a crappy finish.

D.
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  #19  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:13 PM
Tackdriver68 Tackdriver68 is offline
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On a side note.....
Is it just me or did Remington change their formula after Walmart started selling Rem Oil? It seems that the older version of their product had a yellowish color and was alot thicker than it is now....

Last edited by Tackdriver68; 01-13-2011 at 12:16 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:35 PM
Olympus Olympus is offline
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Nothing you can do to fix pitted nickel other than completely removing it and having it refinished. Just chalk another $150 to $200 into it.

Another reason I won't buy another Armscor gun until they come out with a stainless model.
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  #21  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:38 PM
1C3 MAN 1C3 MAN is offline
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No there definitely wasn't anything that came with the gun saying don't use hoppes oil on the nickel guns.

and thanks to those of you that understand why im not very happy.

Also i looked around and to have it refinished its going to cost around 250.00.
or i can buy a duracoat kit and do it myself. for 60.00

anyone use duracoat themselves? how did it turn out?
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  #22  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:40 PM
1C3 MAN 1C3 MAN is offline
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Oh and i even talked with the armscore people for about 25min about the gun before i bought it and they didn't mention anything about not using hoppes either.
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2011, 01:04 PM
1911rocks 1911rocks is offline
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DuraCoat over a Nickel Finish

IC3Man: You'll need to particle blast first even if it is a Brushed Nickel. Many people advocate Blasting (CO2, Glass Beads, Black Beauty, etc), then Parkerizing, then DuraCoat. The Parkerization provides protection in case there are "dings/oops" in the DuraCoat. The one thing I've learned about DuraCoat, I've been experimenting for a week, is that it always turns out more glossy than what you thought it would. I just got done trying the Tactical Black. It's Flat, but it certainly doesn't come close to Melonite/Tenifer. But they're out due to the heat treating required. I'm now working with CeraKote. So far it's my favorite.
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  #24  
Old 01-13-2011, 05:13 PM
68Injunhed 68Injunhed is offline
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I feel for you. My Tac in the matte nickel has a pretty thin/substandard finish on it as well. There are a few small places where my hand has worn the finish to where a darkish coppery tinge is visible. Obviously this is unexpected with less than 1k rounds through a new pistol. It's not that bad yet, but my confidence in the finish holding up for any length of time is not high at all. BTW, I have NEVER had any copper solvents on the frame.

I'm probably going to have it redone anyways in something a bit more durable, like altranite, once it progresses to the point that it bothers me enough. I'm regretting not just getting the parked one, although the contrasts are nice. Maybe I'll reverse the contrasts, and strip the park off my SS, safety, mag release, etc, and have them done in NP3 or something
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  #25  
Old 01-13-2011, 07:54 PM
speedpower speedpower is offline
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Are people forgetting about this old saying? "You definitely get what you paid for"
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