1911Forum
Forum   Reviews   Rules   Legal   Site Supporters & Donations   Advertise


Go Back   1911Forum > Hardware & Accessories > Kydex and Leather Gear


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-19-2010, 01:11 PM
kayak45 kayak45 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 20
New Interior for gun safe.




I have an old canon sale with bare metal inerior.
anybody have ideas to build (pics,plans,examples) new interior. Am handy around the house.
__________________
Search for his will and the power
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-19-2010, 01:27 PM
deldago deldago is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: ohio
Posts: 2,227
http://www.storemoreguns.com/ Try this place,may give you some ideas.Also go to a local store that handles gun safes and take a look to see what will work for your situation.Remember that your storage needs may change over time so try to keep it modular so it can be changed without starting over from scratch.
__________________
Press 1 for english,press 2 to be escorted back to the country you came from until you learn english COTEP#458
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-20-2010, 02:59 AM
NonPCnraRN NonPCnraRN is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Stockton, CA
Posts: 1,867
Hope this isn't off topic. I had heard that safes could be retrofitted with sheetrock to increase protection against heat. Is there a special type or is there an altogether different material I can use in a bare steel safe?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-20-2010, 09:28 AM
RetiredRod's Avatar
RetiredRod RetiredRod is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Springfield, Missouri
Posts: 9,047
Quote:
Originally Posted by NonPCnraRN View Post
Hope this isn't off topic. I had heard that safes could be retrofitted with sheetrock to increase protection against heat. Is there a special type or is there an altogether different material I can use in a bare steel safe?
Pretty sure it's ordinary sheetrock. Fire rating dependent on thickness. IIRC, my safe has about 1 inch thickness of sheetrock and a 2 hour fire rating. But that sheetrock sure adds to the weight of the safe.
__________________


NRA Life Member
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-20-2010, 03:26 PM
kayak45 kayak45 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 20
O.K. So you use either plywood or drywall. How to attach to walls. Can't drill?

I see materials in the ads for safes, for shelves, that looks like some foam kinda stuff but hard enough to be a weight bearing shelf. And it must be fire resistant, right? What is it.

Also, how to attach those shelf sloted verticle side brackets to drywall? And be strong?

Where to get the fabric and how to attach to drywall or shelves?

Glue, staple, padding or no, liquid nail?
__________________
Search for his will and the power
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-20-2010, 04:06 PM
thearmedrebel's Avatar
thearmedrebel thearmedrebel is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 9,148
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayak45 View Post
O.K. So you use either plywood or drywall. How to attach to walls. Can't drill?

I see materials in the ads for safes, for shelves, that looks like some foam kinda stuff but hard enough to be a weight bearing shelf. And it must be fire resistant, right? What is it.

Also, how to attach those shelf sloted verticle side brackets to drywall? And be strong?

Where to get the fabric and how to attach to drywall or shelves?

Glue, staple, padding or no, liquid nail?
I'd use sheetrock against the exterior of the safe, with half-inch plywood as an underlayment to the fabric. Double sided tape to hold the sheetrock to the metal, with the plywood fastened to the other pieces in the corners, brackets or corner blocks. I'd also set a fixed shelf (with a series of cutouts for the barrels of long guns to set in) into a dado in the sides and back, but I tend to overbuild things. For fabric I'd look at the material that stereo speaker builders use, or an indoor/outdoor "carpet" glued to the plywood. Your average Home Depot standards and clips will more than do the job.

Robert
__________________
“Silence in the face of evil is itself evil: God will not hold us guiltless. Not to speak is to speak. Not to act is to act.” ― Dietrich Bonhoeffer
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-20-2010, 05:32 PM
AEW AEW is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 289
I have a few comments that may be of help to you.

There are two types of drywall, fire rated and non-fire rated. Most fire rated drywall is labelled "type X" or noted as fire rated by the printing on one side of the drywall. To maintain the fire rating you must fire tape and seal the joints with the proper fire compound/tape or the fire can penetrate at the joints.

If you use any adhesive fasteners to attach drywall it will likely fail in a fire unless such adhesive was designed and tested to work in a fire. When UL, ANSI, Gypsum Association tests drywall assemblies for fire rating, it is tested as an assembly, including studs, fasteners, and spacing of those items. In other words, the entire wall, constructed properly, is tested and not just the drywall. It takes a hot fire and time to melt mechanical fasteners such as drywall screws.

Also, don't forget the Palusol type intumescent seal at the door/frame. This may be the toughest to modify on your safe since it wasn't constructed to have this seal so you would have to modify the door/frame to have this seal while allowing the door to close & latch properly.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:23 AM.


NOTICE TO USERS OF THIS SITE: By continuing to use this site, you certify that you have read and agree to abide by the Legal Terms of Use. All information, data, text or other materials ("Content") posted to this site by any users are the sole responsibility of those users. 1911Forum does not guarantee the accuracy, integrity, or quality of such Content.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2011 1911Forum.com, LLC. All Rights Reserved