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Old 12-15-2010, 10:25 AM
Olympus Olympus is offline
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Updating My Stainless Taurus




I'm looking to update my stainless Taurus 1911. I bought one of the earlier versions with the polished flats and the matte rounds. About a year ago, I took the gun completely apart in an attempt to start replacing some of the parts and pieces. A year later and it's still in parts and pieces. I got the box out last night and decided I don't like owning a perfectly good gun that is sitting in parts and pieces in a box.

The first order of business is to sand off the billboards on the slide. I prefer my 1911s to be as advertising-free as possible. I'm also going to take some 0000 steel wool and polish up the matte parts as well. Some areas have some minor marks and it looks like the matte has gotten darker and I'd like to lighten it up a little bit. So I was rubbing the top of the side with the wool and wanted to remove the sights to make it easier. My gun came with the Heine Straight 8s and it looks like both sights have allen screws in them. I tried removing the allen screw for the rear sight and it wouldn't budget. I sprayed a little Liquid Wrench around the screw and dovetail and let it sit for about an hour. Went back and still couldn't get it out. I was using so much force that I was bending the allen wrench handle. Is there a particular trick to getting the sights out?
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Last edited by Olympus; 12-15-2010 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:18 PM
1saxman 1saxman is online now
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You may have to heat the sights to break the Loctite they use on them. Unfortunately, this ruins the plastic inserts. What you might try is heating the hex key red hot and putting it in the screw. Unfortunately, this doesn't mean the sight will move. To save the existing sights, you might try some Acetone from the hardware store which is usually the solvent for Super Glue, Loctite, etc. Put it in the dovetail and let it penetrate. It dries quickly so you have to keep at it for some time. You probably will still have to put the slide in a padded vise and use hardwood or brass to drift the sights out.
Steel wool will not remove the sandblasted matte surface, if that's what you're after. You'll have to sand that to polish it out.
My advice would be to leave the finish and sights alone and just get the gun together and working.
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:09 AM
Olympus Olympus is offline
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I actually ended up sanding the billboards off the sides of the slide yesterday. It makes for a much cleaner looking gun in my opinion. I decided not to remove the matte finish. But I guess it has soaked up some oil and gunk and stuff because it's a lot darker gray color than it used to be. I took some Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish and polished it. It took a lot of that gunk out and lightened the matte finish a little, which is what I was going for.

But I guess since it's been a year since I've completely disassembled the gun, I am now having difficulties putting it back together. For some reason, it's not like I remember my other 1911s. I have some pieces that I don't know where go.

1. The little barbell-looking thing and tiny spring. I watched a video on YouTube about that going up inside the slide and it holds the firing pin in when the cover is removed. Is this even necessary for the function of the gun? Can I completely remove it and the gun still work? Seems pretty unnecessary to me.

2. I have two other pieces that I faintly remember going on the rear of the frame, on the right side. But I can't figure out how they go on. And the videos I watched on YouTube of the Taurus 1911 don't even show those two parts. I'm 100% confident these parts came from the gun somewhere though.

Are there any videos about how to completely reassembly a Taurus 1911?
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:18 AM
1saxman 1saxman is online now
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Start by finishing out the frame. The firing pin safety levers work together to push on the plunger in the slide when the trigger is pulled. The two levers fit on the sear and hammer pins. I use grease to hold them in place while assembling. The lever with the long thin arm is the upper one. Just lay them out on the table first and see how they have to work together to make the upper lever raise when the trigger bar moves the lower piece. Grease is also good for holding the sear and disconnector together. Finish assembling the parts in the frame.

After this, you can install the spring and plunger in the slide. The spring and plunger go in after the extractor but before the firing pin and spring. Using two punches, push the firing pin in all the way while pushing down on the plunger, then release plunger. The firing pin is now trapped forward, protruding from the breech face. Install the firing pin stop, then push down on the safety plunger and the firing pin will snap into position, slightly protruding through the firing pin stop. Check again to make sure firing pin point is not protruding from the firing pin hole in the breech face, then push on firing pin to make sure it cannot protrude from the breech face. When the gun is assembled, the plunger will be depressed when the trigger is pulled allowing the firing pin to strke the primer.

It's best to go ahead and install these parts correctly. It is possible to do without the safety but you have to use a shim that replaces the levers.
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:40 AM
Olympus Olympus is offline
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I think I can manage the spring and plunger that go in the slide alright. But the two pieces that go on the frame I'm still having trouble visualizing what you're explaining. Which one of the pieces goes on the sear pin and which one goes on the hammer pin? I think one of the pieces protrudues up from the frame.
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:11 PM
1saxman 1saxman is online now
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search for Series 80 diagram and you should see how they go together. Like I said above, the lever with the long thin arm goes up top and is the one that pushes the plunger.
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