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  #1  
Old 12-03-2010, 10:02 PM
knedrgr knedrgr is offline
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Filling in etching on a 1911 to make naked




I have an itching to modify one of my 1911. It's an stainless Springfield Mil-Spec, and I want to fill in the factory etchings on the slide.

Other than sending it off to a smith, what's the best way of doing this? I'm pretty mechanically incline and have patient. Is it possible to fill in the etchings with soldering and sand it down for a smooth finish?
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:13 PM
SuHu SuHu is offline
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I removed the super ugly rollmarks on a Taurus before, but it was quite some work as the slide was not flat at all. It was closer to a Ruffles potato chip rather than a flat piece of steel.

I used different grades of sandpaper on plate glass. However, I had plenty of experience lapping metal to a super flat, mirror finish prior to trying it on one of my guns.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:47 PM
Quack Quack is offline
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I'm telling you some JB Weld and it's done


(knedrgr is a friend of mine, so the above is obviously a joke)
here's a pic of his mil-spec.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:50 PM
knedrgr knedrgr is offline
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I thought about sanding it down. Might have access to a CNC machine, if a friend has it up and running. But that's my reserve option, incase I messed up on option 1.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:51 PM
Quack Quack is offline
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http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=219138
http://forums.1911forum.com/search.php?searchid=6354142
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:53 PM
knedrgr knedrgr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quack View Post
I'm telling you some JB Weld and it's done


(knedrgr is a friend of mine, so the above is obviously a joke)
here's a pic of his mil-spec.
I did JB Weld my 10/22 stock to make it smooth. Need to do some final sanding, then Gunkote.

Yeah, you'll be on the naked 1911 slide train, once I get thru my experiment...
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:21 PM
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You're going to have to take an awful lot of metal off that slide to be below the deepest sections of those roll marks. Have you considered purchasing a new slide without roll marks from Caspian (or similar) and selling the stock Springfield slide to recoup some of the cost? I had the laser engraving polished out of my Billboard SW1911, and you could still make out the ghost of the markings. Even now, after I blasted it with aluminum oxide and followed up with glass beads they are still visible. Just a thought, as I am sure there are people that would love to have a no FCS Springfield marked slide.

Robert
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:17 AM
flyfish_addict flyfish_addict is offline
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Don't do it!

I tried to remove the "billboard" from my EMP slide and ended up having to go so deep that I jeopardized the integrity of the slide To add insult to injury I had to have Springfield Custom fit a new one (EMP is non standard slide size and Springfield won't sell you one directly or one without the rollmarks). It starts out innocently enough but the etchings vary in depth so to completely remove them requires going too deep (atleast it did for me). That slide still hangs above my workbench as a reminder
Here's the thread with my slide mishap:
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=260060
Doug
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:35 AM
Ditto_95 Ditto_95 is offline
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Measure twice, cut once.
If you are going to go to all of that trouble, why not just weld it up and resurface it?
A surface grinder will do the job in no time and you won't compromise any structural integrity.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:45 PM
knedrgr knedrgr is offline
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Thanks guys. Before taking on this adventure, I'm going to try it on a small piece of gun part I have laying around and see what happens.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:47 PM
knedrgr knedrgr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfish_addict View Post
I tried to remove the "billboard" from my EMP slide and ended up having to go so deep that I jeopardized the integrity of the slide To add insult to injury I had to have Springfield Custom fit a new one (EMP is non standard slide size and Springfield won't sell you one directly or one without the rollmarks). It starts out innocently enough but the etchings vary in depth so to completely remove them requires going too deep (atleast it did for me). That slide still hangs above my workbench as a reminder
Here's the thread with my slide mishap:
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=260060
Doug
Wow man, I feel your pain in that project. Thanks for the warning. If I mill it down, it would stop at the rear serrations.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:06 PM
Joe C Joe C is offline
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Hello,

I have removed a lot of roll marks. I do it by sanding sanding using an aluminum block with adhesive paper on it. Usually on a milspec gun they are about .005"-.007 deep which isn't that big of a deal if you use the right paper. I just did a colt 80s this week. Keeps the lines crisp too.

Respectfully,
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:16 AM
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Is 80 grit aluminum oxide paper too coarse? My Kimber roll marks are very shallow.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:09 AM
Joe C Joe C is offline
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Quote:
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Is 80 grit aluminum oxide paper too coarse? My Kimber roll marks are very shallow.
Well, that just all depends on what kind of finish you want and how long you want to work on it.

Typically if I am doing one I start with 120 then I go as follows, 220, 320, 400, 500, 800, 1000, the buff...wearing out each piece of paper on that particular side before going on to the next grit...I also sand straight, then diagonal, then straight again through all the grits...

Respectfully,
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:16 AM
SFSMedic SFSMedic is offline
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My billboard SW marks are being removed along with the other work I'm having done. I hope the ghost effect doesn't happen on mine as well as stated above. Btw I'd love to see a pic of that SW1911 bead blasted.
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
Well, that just all depends on what kind of finish you want and how long you want to work on it.

Typically if I am doing one I start with 120 then I go as follows, 220, 320, 400, 500, 800, 1000, the buff...wearing out each piece of paper on that particular side before going on to the next grit...I also sand straight, then diagonal, then straight again through all the grits...

Respectfully,
Never would have thought to change direction while sanding. Thanks for the tip Mr. Chambers.
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Old 12-05-2010, 04:29 PM
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It may be a little difficult to do with a slide depending on how big/small your paper is but I usually go in a figure-8 pattern when I flat sand parts. This insures you aren't pressing down too much on a certain side. Pushing on the paper tends to sand more off the front, pulling off the rear, etc.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:23 PM
SemperFi1977m SemperFi1977m is offline
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has anyone done a RIA billboard? It looks to be shallow enough to remove...
I would sure like to see it gone from my GI lol.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:26 PM
Danmerica1911 Danmerica1911 is offline
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Hi temp bondo
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  #20  
Old 12-12-2010, 05:54 PM
knedrgr knedrgr is offline
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Just picked up my old soldering kit... gonna test it out on some old parts before the big attempt.
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:56 PM
Quack Quack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knedrgr View Post
Just picked up my old soldering kit... gonna test it out on some old parts before the big attempt.
soldering iron won't get the slide hot enough if you are thinking about silver soldering it.
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Old 12-12-2010, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SemperFi1977m View Post
has anyone done a RIA billboard? It looks to be shallow enough to remove...
I would sure like to see it gone from my GI lol.
I removed the roll marks from my Springfield G.I. with a surface grinder... could be done with a mill also and then sanded smooth with increasing grits of sandpaper on a flat surface... the roll marks were about .005- /008 deep. This also called for recutting the cocking serrations so be aware of that.
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  #23  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:39 PM
JMB1911 JMB1911 is offline
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I'll never understand why some take considerable exception to the factory rollmarks?? At least not to the degree of grinding the slide flats,etc.
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:16 AM
AirForce AirForce is offline
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Well in the case of mine (GI) I simply don't like them, personal quirkiness I suppose. But mostly, the Springfield Armory is poorly done...it's lightly struck around the ELD AR and it just looks like crap. But I'm quirky about looks. Mr Joe C (above) will be doing mine soon.
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Old 12-13-2010, 02:32 PM
SemperFi1977m SemperFi1977m is offline
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I'll never understand why some take considerable exception to the factory rollmarks?? At least not to the degree of grinding the slide flats,etc.
yeah it can seem kinda excessive and obsessive lol....but man, do these companies really need to use such a huge billboard?! "Rock Island Armory" and their logo (which also says Rock Island Armory in it lol) cover 70% of the left side of my slide.

I will be leaving it alone for now....but when this one gets holster and daily-use worn and battered and is due for a refinish; I think the billboard will be removed by me....especially since I need to clean up some spots around where the rear dovetail was cut and a few other areas they should be smoothed out nicer. If Im gonna fork out the dough for a refinish, shes get'n everything finnessed first
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Last edited by SemperFi1977m; 12-13-2010 at 03:05 PM.
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