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  #1  
Old 11-15-2010, 03:45 PM
vinnyd vinnyd is offline
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ATI FX 45 Titan




Hi All:
Picked up an ATI Titan today. I'm impressed with the fit and finish on this pistol (very nice)! Everything is tight and there are no machining marks. The slide to frame fit is very good! Trigger pull is excellent with no creep and a crisp break at about 4.5 lbs! It came with one mag, made in Italy (ACT-MAG). Have not hit the range yet but maybe tomorrow.

If there's a down side, it's that I can't take the recoil spring out! Unlike Kimbers, this has no tool for the two-piece guide rod on a busingless bull barrel. I've ordered a nylon one that is used for "Kimber Ultras" in a hope that it will work here. The instruction booklet is silent on how to remove it, covering only removal for the full-size pistol with bushing. The only other notable thing is that it was in a sealed plastic bag and covered in thick oil. Good! Will report on range results.



Figured out the recoil guide rod. It just lifts out! No need to compress the unit.

I went to the range and fired three different brands of ammo, Federal, Blazer, and TULA (all 230GR FMJ). Had several FTFs with each brand. Also, the slide failed to lock back several times with all mags used (ACT-MAG and two Chip McCormick mags with "Shooting Star" followers). It didn't happen all the time and seemed to be less toward the end of my range time. I fired about 125 rounds. I'm going to assume the malfunctions relate to breaking in the pistol. We'll see how things go next time.

Last edited by vinnyd; 11-17-2010 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Update
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  #2  
Old 12-07-2010, 07:26 AM
Chisum Chisum is offline
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I also have a Titan in SS. I do like it but am having problems with the guide rod back plate cracking. I've had 2 do this. Was wanting to know if you have had an issue with this also?
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  #3  
Old 12-08-2010, 08:02 PM
vinnyd vinnyd is offline
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Guide Rod

Hello:
The only problem I had was that the screw that held the plate on kept coming loose. I also noticed that the recoil plate is impacting the frame (no blueing left). I believe it should do that. I think that's why the screw came loose (the vibrations). I put some "Lock-Tite" on it and it seems to have helped. However, I emailed customer service to see about getting a spare guide rod assembly. I was told that the parts were ordered but not in yet. So I'm waiting. In your case, it may be that the impact on the frame caused the plate to crack (???). Have you been using hot ammo?

Another thing I noticed was that my lower barrel lug was peening with what I believe is called: "barrel bump." It seems that the lower lug was "bumping" into, rather than gliding over, the slide stop pin while lifting to go into battery. I lightly polished the peening marks out with my "Dremel." I have had several FTFs and this could be the culprit. Until I get it worked out I won't be carrying this as my PD weapon. Otherwise, I like the feel of it and it's surprisingly accurate!

Also, my gun does not have the "bowtie" in the verticle impact surface area (the place where the barrel drops and comes to rest on the frame when the slide is open). I noticed that the lower-barrel lug's feet are just "kissing" the frame (not ideal, but typical). However, they are not otherwise peening or marring it. I hope this is useful to you. There are others here that are much, much more knowledgeable than I am on this subject. I welcome any and all comments. Good luck and good shooting.
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  #4  
Old 12-09-2010, 07:50 AM
mcdonl mcdonl is offline
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First Post!!

Hi, NICE GUN!!

This is my first post and my first 1911!

(See attachment.....)
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IMG00178-20101208-1958.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2010, 10:38 AM
tomwalshco tomwalshco is offline
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Vinny, share any further observations with us. Will have one in my hands tomorrow and always appreciate other gunner's comments and experiences. Thanks.
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  #6  
Old 12-18-2010, 06:21 AM
Chisum Chisum is offline
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as stated earlier, I was having problems with the recoil back plate cracking and being slightly bent. After taking a moment and looking things over and messing with the parts I decided to make a minor mod. What I did was grind the screw thats holding the plate to the rod, flat and just leaving enough screw driver slot to use a screw driver. So far so good.
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  #7  
Old 12-18-2010, 08:04 AM
NIGHT AL NIGHT AL is offline
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Where do you send that pistol for service,or where do you call?
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  #8  
Old 12-18-2010, 08:35 AM
Chisum Chisum is offline
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ATI #800-290-0065. Very helpful and easy to work with.
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  #9  
Old 12-18-2010, 08:50 AM
tomwalshco tomwalshco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chisum View Post
as stated earlier, I was having problems with the recoil back plate cracking and being slightly bent. After taking a moment and looking things over and messing with the parts I decided to make a minor mod. What I did was grind the screw thats holding the plate to the rod, flat and just leaving enough screw driver slot to use a screw driver. So far so good.
Mine came in and have had a few days to mess with it. Couple of observations - re-assembly of that recoil spring assembly is pretty critical. Given that the ops manual is a 4 page photocopy with bad pics and covers the entire 1911 line - you're basically on your own, invented some new curse words along the learning curve.

The big spring should go in with the larger space to the front and set the cut end of the spring at the 7 o'clock position (with slide upside down). Spring goes into the bushing before inserting the rod and back plate assembly. Spring helps guide the rod through the bushing opening.

Guy in another forum had a SS model lock up on him twice in the 1st 50 and I'll bet he put the spring in backwards. Probably jumped the track and wedged in there. Could have easily done it myself, but I manually racked the slide a few hundred times beforehand and felt that drag after 20-30 operations so I turned the spring around.

250 rounds so far and only issue is the slide locks back sometimes, but I think it's my fault. May have buffed the stop edge and detente pin too much. I can fix that.
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  #10  
Old 01-08-2011, 04:38 PM
vinnyd vinnyd is offline
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Updates

Hi All:
As I said earlier, I was waiting for a spare guide rod from ATI as they were not in stock. Got tired of waiting. Instead, I ordered a guide rod and outer recoil spring from Colt! It's the one made for their "New Agent/Defender" model pistols. It fits just fine. One thing I noticed though, the Colt outer-recoil spring is heavier than the stock one for the Titan. It also has both ends closed so it will go on either way. I decided to try the heavier Colt spring to see how it cycles. I have the stock spring if I need it. The Colt guide rod uses a "circlip" instead of a screw to hold the plate to the guide rod. Thus, no screw to come loose or impact the lower lug. The only other difference I can see is the Colt guide rod is stainless/in-the-white vs. blued. Early Colt guide rods were too soft (recalled), but the new ones are of a harder/stronger material (plate has a punch mark to denote the improved material). The guide rod part number is: SP577811, $26.95, and the outer recoil spring is: SP57779, $3.95. Good luck and good shooting.
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  #11  
Old 01-08-2011, 06:13 PM
tomwalshco tomwalshco is offline
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I also have a Defender and have a spare Colt recoil setup for same because that item was recalled ealier last year.

Tried it my Titan FX and it didn't feel right. Slide would not fully recoil - that is, I didn't feel the solid metal to metal stop you feel when pulling the slide all the way back on a 1911.

It felt like the compressed spring was stopping rearward movement as opposed to a solid frame to slide stop. Wasn't confident enough to try shooting it.

I think I've solved my problem with Loctite, but have a replacement coming in from NY anyway - might be 6 mos ??

Not doubting you, vinny. Just wasn't feeling very lucky that day.

ATI on top: (both kinda dirty)


ATI on left:
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  #12  
Old 01-08-2011, 06:40 PM
vinnyd vinnyd is offline
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Tom:
I think I know what you are referring to. My slide retracts all the way. However, the spring is definitely stronger. I cycled some snap caps through and it cycled fine (no binding) and ejected the caps. It also locked open on the empty mag. But your point is a good one. I will fire the first round with a single cartridge and then two just to be safe. I also noticed that my Colt spring is different than yours in that it has closed coils at both ends (new Colt design?).

Interestingly, when I asked about replacement springs, ATI (who spoke with the factory) replied that I could use the Colt Defender outer recoil spring. However, they referred to it as a 15lb. spring. The factory Colt standard spring is 19lbs., go figure! The ATI stock spring fits the Colt guide rod so I can use it if necessary. Wolff sells a reduced-power Colt spring at 17lbs., but not a 15lb. one! I'll keep you advised.
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  #13  
Old 01-08-2011, 06:54 PM
tomwalshco tomwalshco is offline
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The replacement I got from Colt was closed on both ends. Recalled spring (original) was open one end. The replacement setup has a small dimple on the flat base plate which yours probably has.

I've got other guns with open recoil spring ends and they always concerned me. Kahr is one. Seen pics of the open end of the spring sticking out of the rod hole after a range mishap. Usually locks everything up. Cost savings issue, but hell, if you're paying your sweat shop help 35 cents an hour, splurge a little.

Let us know how it fires. Should be fine. I know one thing - my FX kicks more than the Colt, even with the added weight. Obviously the result of a stiffer spring.
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  #14  
Old 01-25-2011, 08:22 PM
markdido markdido is offline
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I just ordered one today in SS.
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2011, 12:58 PM
DCColt DCColt is offline
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I'm very glad to see this thread.
My son has been looking at the SS FX Titan by ATI for about a year since he wants a 3" .45acp. I own a Colt Defender and also a Bersa .45acp( which works flawlessly BTW) and they both work great and he likes them both vey well. i saw one for a fair price at a gun show yesterday and worked out a trade for it NIB using a beautiful old Winchester mod.94 "Clasic" that I bought in 1969 and still looked new, but I had ZERO use for! I thought I might get this gun and give it to him next Christmas for his present.
The only outer cosmetic complaint I had was the quality of the grips but moreso the use of BLACK screws on an otherwise all shiny SS gun. Why not SS screws??
Also, i have never seen a more pitiful "Manual" which shows a parts breakdown of the full sized 1911 model but not the compact and not word one on disassembly of it. I guess they figure you must already own another brand?
I disassembled the gun at home later and was not overly impressed with the spring system assy. I'm familiar with my Defender similar assy but it is much easier to get out of the gun than the ATI. The end of spring asy and bushing just hund up forever in the end of the frame and I finally had to use a wooden dowel to push the bushing/spring assy back to come out. I think the problem is the aluminum bushing tight fit in the SS slide. I'm wondering how long that alum. bushing is going to take to fall apart? I was also not thrilled with the Phillips screw holding it together! Thats going to get beat up real quick. Also the spring plate does not look like good spring steel as it does on my Defender, but "looks" more like a pop rivet washer quality?

I guess I'll see. I sure hope I didn't make a bad trade.

Any further info/stories are appreciated

D.
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  #16  
Old 02-13-2011, 03:38 PM
fechols fechols is offline
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ATI FX45 Titan Question about the grips

Hello all, I have posted this elsewhere before I found this thread.....can anyone tell me what grips to buy for this? I want some made but do not know if they take the ones for officer, commander or standard 1911.......has anyone replaced the grips, and if so, what size did you use?

Thank you for any help out there....
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2011, 04:06 PM
tomwalshco tomwalshco is offline
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Officer's grips. Anything that fits on a Colt Defender/New Agent/Officer will fit the Titan. Standard screws and bushings if you want to go slim.

Only 2 sizes, standard(Gov/GI) and Officers(including 3"ers).
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2011, 04:16 PM
fechols fechols is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwalshco View Post
Officer's grips. Anything that fits on a Colt Defender/New Agent/Officer will fit the Titan. Standard screws and bushings if you want to go slim.

Only 2 sizes, standard(Gov/GI) and Officers(including 3"ers).

Thank you so much for the information. Off to get some grips........
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2011, 11:33 AM
Impulse0688 Impulse0688 is offline
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Hey I also have the same exact gun. Do any of you know the type of rear sight cut is? I want to put adjustable rear sights on it but can not find a deffinate answer. I like the gun. For the price it's great. My sights are way off shoots almost 4" right and 1" low.

I too had a few problems first time out on the range. Shot 100 through it. Took it home cleaned and oiled
It and since then I have not had any problems. Have shot 500+ rounds since then and I had one jam (it was the ammo they were reloads and the bullet wasn't seated correctly)

Last edited by Impulse0688; 02-26-2011 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Forgot to add my input about it firing
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2011, 12:30 PM
tomwalshco tomwalshco is offline
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What distance? 4 and 1 is pretty good from 50 yds.

Almost positive they are Novaks.

You should be able to tweak what you've got to get them dialed in. Unless you've got a jones for something different.

Most handguns sighted for 25 yds, so anything closer will be low anyway...

1" is sharpshooter territory, isn't it? Give the rear sight a tap or 3 to the right with a hammer and punch.
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  #21  
Old 02-27-2011, 12:03 AM
FireForEffectK FireForEffectK is offline
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My experience with adjusting/replacing the sights...I went from using a armor's hammer to a regular hammer. From a nylon punch to a couple of brass punches. Light tapping to monkey pounding and a whole bunch of cussin. Intermittent use of a heat gun because I thought they used locktite on the sights. No locktite used. After about an hour or so, swollen hand, sweaty brow, pissed off wife (loud banging after midnight) I did it. I got it off. I was extremely careful not to damage the slide.

Putting on my new sights, I prayed first, then brass punch and more monkey pounding. Like I was a metal worker on an anvil making a sword. At one point, I didn't think I'd get the new sight in, it wouldn't budge, couldn't take it out, past the point of no return. Sights ended up aligned. How, don't ask. I was tired, hot, sweaty, hand swollen (obvious how that happened), around 0230 in the morning, I had to stop. It looked right and I left it at that. Took it to the range and wow, I could have fell to my knees crying because all went wonderful. No more pounding/adjusting. I don't want to ever go through that again.
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  #22  
Old 02-27-2011, 07:53 AM
tomwalshco tomwalshco is offline
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A little heat and some penetrating oil with a soak period helps before you start the removal routine. Alternating hot and cold causes the metal to expand/contract enough to break any adhesion. Warm setting - oven (or hair dryer), then freezer, then repeat.

When putting on new, if you know going in they're going to be a bear, you can lightly buff the bottom of the sights to ease the insertion force. If they only go in 1/4 of the way by hand - you've got some "monkey pounding" in your future. Buff it down a little.

I've had pretty good luck with this process and I only have hillybilly tools at hand - masking tape, vise with strips of wood, rusty set of punches and a $5 Harbor Freight hammer.....
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  #23  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:19 PM
buckitge buckitge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireForEffectK View Post
My experience with adjusting/replacing the sights...I went from using a armor's hammer to a regular hammer. From a nylon punch to a couple of brass punches. Light tapping to monkey pounding and a whole bunch of cussin. Intermittent use of a heat gun because I thought they used locktite on the sights. No locktite used. After about an hour or so, swollen hand, sweaty brow, pissed off wife (loud banging after midnight) I did it. I got it off. I was extremely careful not to damage the slide.

Putting on my new sights, I prayed first, then brass punch and more monkey pounding. Like I was a metal worker on an anvil making a sword. At one point, I didn't think I'd get the new sight in, it wouldn't budge, couldn't take it out, past the point of no return. Sights ended up aligned. How, don't ask. I was tired, hot, sweaty, hand swollen (obvious how that happened), around 0230 in the morning, I had to stop. It looked right and I left it at that. Took it to the range and wow, I could have fell to my knees crying because all went wonderful. No more pounding/adjusting. I don't want to ever go through that again.
Hi, new to the forums and new to 1911's. look forward to learning and contributing..


You did this on the FX Titan? What sites did you get? I emailed Novak but they said their sights wont fit it and they would need to do custom milling if I wanted Novak.

I really want new sights but have no clue what will fit.


also, as for the recoil spring assembly.... If the Defender assembly is too tight (defender is 3.5") then would it be safe to assume that the Kimber 3" would fit even better? http://www.kimberamerica.com/shop/pr...od=225&xSec=21
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  #24  
Old 03-07-2011, 05:26 AM
FireForEffectK FireForEffectK is offline
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I have the Laserlyte Novak 1911 sight on mine. 750+ rounds and I have no regrets.

http://www.laserlyte.com/Laser_Gun_S...9N/RL-19N.html
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  #25  
Old 03-07-2011, 07:53 AM
buckitge buckitge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireForEffectK View Post
I have the Laserlyte Novak 1911 sight on mine. 750+ rounds and I have no regrets.

http://www.laserlyte.com/Laser_Gun_S...9N/RL-19N.html
and they fit just fine? I compared to a Taurus 1911 that has actual novak sights and the dovetail sizes were considerably different. do you have any up-close pictures of your dovetail?
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