**Final pics up** New guy jumps in the deep end...Caspian home build
Thanks to some self motivated members of this here forum, I got it in my head that I could build a 1911 (crazy, I know). I’ve done my research (not complete), bought most of the tools, have most of the reference material (Kuhnhausen 1&2 read both, Wilson combat dvd set, AGI dvd set) including a really big bookmark folder from this website (best source of continuing 1911 education on the web!!). I have been reading and planing this for more than a year now. My Foster frame/Caspian slide came in yesterday and I picked it up from the gun shop. Talk about Christmas in May. Santa does exist and he looks like a USPS mail carrier.
Overview
Prefit Slide/Frame from factory, .250 beavertail radius cut, installed ejector, integral plunger tube
Foster frame- It’s not too difficult to see why this frame didn’t make the cut to be sold as a Caspian frame. I’ve taken some pictures to illustrate the cosmetic flaws that ended up saving me some money.
First off and most noticeable are lines around the trigger guard. I don’t know how these got there but I’m hoping I can work them down with files and sand paper to even the surface up.
Secondly, there is a rather distinct line that runs on the inside of the dust cover on the left side that is raised a few thousands of an inch. I can easily catch it on my finger nail. I’m thinking the same thing as before, files and sandpaper.
Third. The VIS has what appears to be some left over machining marks that may cause an issue.
I decided to go with a Kart EZ fit barrel for this build. I bought that, along with some other small parts I would need for the barrel fitting (EGW side stop, recoil spring, spring guide, spring plug). I got all excited when I got home to start my build. EGW slide stop was .201 according to digital calipers. Checked my slide stop frame hole with a series of gage pins (bought a set of 190 pieces from enco from .061-.250) and figured the frame hole to be right at .200. Went to work with progressively finer grits of sandpaper until the slide stop would go all the way in nice and tight.
At this point I wanted to see what I was working with in regards to the barrel fitting. I put the Kart EZ fit barrel in the slide with the barrel locating block and found that I would not have to fit the sides of the hood as the .003 feeler gage goes in and out with no resistance. Holding the barrel/slide up to the light reveals a small equal amount of light on each side of the barrel hood. I know this will change once I start filing the fitting pads and it will have to be continuously rechecked per instructions.
I put the barrel in the frame without the slide (secured by slide stop and stretchy black band) to check for the proper gap between the frame barrel ramp and barrel itself (1/32). I found the following:
There doesn’t appear to be a large enough gap between the barrel and frame ramp. This picture shoes the barrel pulled all the way to the rear as far as it will go. So, very early on I am stumped as to what to do. I haven’t measured my feed ramp angle or depth. To tell you the truth I’ve read numerous post’s from different experts and still can’t quite figure out how to do it. Basically my plan was if the gap looked good, as in it matched the gap I’ve seen in numerous pictures from the pro’s of the feed ramp area, I would have continued with the barrel fitting. Now I’m starting to think I need to measure angle and depth now, before I do anything else and make sure my frame is ok. I’m sure the barrel could be set back a little to achieve the gap but I know that would affect case support, something best left to the pro’s.
Big Jon mentioned some critical measurements to take before doing a build. I’m thinking I should take a step back and start there.
Any advice as to what to do next? I am all ears and welcome thoughts and criticism.
I would like to chronicle the build here so I will be adding to this post until everything is done (hopefully I will still have a head full of hair and won’t be in the red.)
Thanks in advance.
Thanks to some self motivated members of this here forum, I got it in my head that I could build a 1911 (crazy, I know). I’ve done my research (not complete), bought most of the tools, have most of the reference material (Kuhnhausen 1&2 read both, Wilson combat dvd set, AGI dvd set) including a really big bookmark folder from this website (best source of continuing 1911 education on the web!!). I have been reading and planing this for more than a year now. My Foster frame/Caspian slide came in yesterday and I picked it up from the gun shop. Talk about Christmas in May. Santa does exist and he looks like a USPS mail carrier.
Overview
Prefit Slide/Frame from factory, .250 beavertail radius cut, installed ejector, integral plunger tube
Foster frame- It’s not too difficult to see why this frame didn’t make the cut to be sold as a Caspian frame. I’ve taken some pictures to illustrate the cosmetic flaws that ended up saving me some money.
First off and most noticeable are lines around the trigger guard. I don’t know how these got there but I’m hoping I can work them down with files and sand paper to even the surface up.
Secondly, there is a rather distinct line that runs on the inside of the dust cover on the left side that is raised a few thousands of an inch. I can easily catch it on my finger nail. I’m thinking the same thing as before, files and sandpaper.
Third. The VIS has what appears to be some left over machining marks that may cause an issue.
I decided to go with a Kart EZ fit barrel for this build. I bought that, along with some other small parts I would need for the barrel fitting (EGW side stop, recoil spring, spring guide, spring plug). I got all excited when I got home to start my build. EGW slide stop was .201 according to digital calipers. Checked my slide stop frame hole with a series of gage pins (bought a set of 190 pieces from enco from .061-.250) and figured the frame hole to be right at .200. Went to work with progressively finer grits of sandpaper until the slide stop would go all the way in nice and tight.
At this point I wanted to see what I was working with in regards to the barrel fitting. I put the Kart EZ fit barrel in the slide with the barrel locating block and found that I would not have to fit the sides of the hood as the .003 feeler gage goes in and out with no resistance. Holding the barrel/slide up to the light reveals a small equal amount of light on each side of the barrel hood. I know this will change once I start filing the fitting pads and it will have to be continuously rechecked per instructions.
I put the barrel in the frame without the slide (secured by slide stop and stretchy black band) to check for the proper gap between the frame barrel ramp and barrel itself (1/32). I found the following:
There doesn’t appear to be a large enough gap between the barrel and frame ramp. This picture shoes the barrel pulled all the way to the rear as far as it will go. So, very early on I am stumped as to what to do. I haven’t measured my feed ramp angle or depth. To tell you the truth I’ve read numerous post’s from different experts and still can’t quite figure out how to do it. Basically my plan was if the gap looked good, as in it matched the gap I’ve seen in numerous pictures from the pro’s of the feed ramp area, I would have continued with the barrel fitting. Now I’m starting to think I need to measure angle and depth now, before I do anything else and make sure my frame is ok. I’m sure the barrel could be set back a little to achieve the gap but I know that would affect case support, something best left to the pro’s.
Big Jon mentioned some critical measurements to take before doing a build. I’m thinking I should take a step back and start there.
Any advice as to what to do next? I am all ears and welcome thoughts and criticism.
I would like to chronicle the build here so I will be adding to this post until everything is done (hopefully I will still have a head full of hair and won’t be in the red.)
Thanks in advance.