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  #1  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:08 AM
MoHawk MoHawk is offline
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Completed Springfield 1911 Mil-Spec Upgrades




About 3 weeks ago I made another post when I started work on my SA M-S.
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=259690
This post is written mainly for those who may be considering the same type of project.

The reason I did this upgrade was to become reaquinted with working on 1911s.
After 3 weeks of on & off work, mostly off, last night I completed the rebuild of my SA Mil-Spec.

If any other members are considering this type of project, don't do it to save money because you won't. I paid $630 for the pistol & spent another $600 for parts, material & a few minor tools. $1200 to $1300 would buy you a high quality 1911.

Stainless Steel parts installed from Ed Brown, barrel bushing, 2 piece full length guide rod, slide stop, thumb safety, firing pin, firing pin stop, ejector, extra long extractor, alum. trigger, disconnector, sear, sear spring, extended mag release, hammer/strut, main spring housing, beveled mag well, grip screws, all springs & all pins. Drop in SS Beavertail Grip Safety from Wilson Combat. I also bought an Ed Brown sear jig.

Overall I am pleased with the results of the upgrades with the exception of the Wilson grip safety. The part is of very high quality however there is too much gap between the frame spurs & the hammer rest on the beavertail. The only reason I used it was I did not want to send frame off at this time to be refinished. At some later date I will radius the frame & replace it with an EB Beavertail.

The most time consuming work on the upgrades was spent fitting the barrel bushing, thumb safety, trigger & firing pin.
http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=261391
I mounted the firing pin in a lathe to work on it. The other parts were mainly hours filing, sanding, stoning & polishing. I worked mostly in 1 hour sessions. Be prepared to have a lot of patience for removing very small amounts of metal & a lot of part fittings.

The main tools I used were 6 files from very small to medium, several grits of wet/dry emery paper, punches, metal scribe, sear stones & a pistol vise. I also used a Dremel Tool only for polishing.

After a couple of hours of work on the sear, sear spring & hammer, I ended up with a silk smooth 4# trigger pull that ends with a nice crisp break. I can't wait till tomorrow to do some shooting!






Last edited by MoHawk; 07-21-2010 at 09:55 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2010, 01:37 PM
caseyjaxfl caseyjaxfl is offline
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looks great
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2010, 02:07 PM
mjnsx07 mjnsx07 is offline
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Wow - awesome! Let us know how it shoots!
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  #4  
Old 02-27-2010, 02:40 PM
Chad from Georgia Chad from Georgia is offline
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looks awesome, i just personally dont like any stainless steel for some reason..
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  #5  
Old 02-27-2010, 05:58 PM
fistpoint fistpoint is offline
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If I read the thread that I am linking below correctly, you may have bought the wrong beavertail. Check this out and read what RickB wrote:

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthre...29#post2542829
.
.
.
http://www.wilsoncombat.com/a_beaver...afeties_di.asp

He points out that the picture of the 2 blued beavers have the correct shape/cutout. The one in your picture looks like the stainless ones shown on Wilson's website which are the incorrect shape for a Springfield.

I believe the model you "wanted" is the 429SC, it should look like the 429BG.
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  #6  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:29 PM
dakrat dakrat is offline
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very nice upgrades. although, some parts I would prefer darker
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  #7  
Old 02-27-2010, 07:30 PM
brutay brutay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fistpoint View Post
If I read the thread that I am linking below correctly, you may have bought the wrong beavertail.
I've never seen a correct drop-in BT for a Springfield as it has the .220 frame radius. Smith & Alexander sells the jig to correctly fit the S&A safety. That means grinding on and refinishing the frame. Otherwise, you'll end up with the gap between the frame and safety as shown.
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  #8  
Old 02-27-2010, 07:59 PM
05daytona 05daytona is offline
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Awesome job !!!!
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  #9  
Old 02-27-2010, 08:06 PM
zdragon52 zdragon52 is offline
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Wilson makes two drop in beavertails grip safeties...one for the govt. frame and one for the commander frame. Springfield milspec frame is a commander frame.
A Wilson commander drop in beavertail would have substantially close that gap.
i would exchange the govt. GS for a commander GS.

Last edited by zdragon52; 02-27-2010 at 08:10 PM.
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  #10  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:35 AM
MoHawk MoHawk is offline
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I received PMs from 2 forum members letting me know I ordered the wrong GS from Wilson. I am contacting Wilson Monday morning to order the correct part. Hopefully after receiving the correct GS I will be satisfied with the reduced gap at the frame tang.

Guys thanks for your help!

As a side note, I noticed something on adragon's pistol above that I found on mine & many otheres. The Mil-Specs trigger channel has a burr that scratches the middle of the trigger. I used a trigger channel stone from Brownells to remove the burrs & noticed an immediate difference in trigger movement.

Last edited by MoHawk; 02-28-2010 at 10:41 AM.
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  #11  
Old 02-28-2010, 11:51 AM
zdragon52 zdragon52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoHawk View Post

As a side note, I noticed something on adragon's pistol above that I found on mine & many otheres. The Mil-Specs trigger channel has a burr that scratches the middle of the trigger. I used a trigger channel stone from Brownells to remove the burrs & noticed an immediate difference in trigger movement.
look....that trigger has since been replaced.


Last edited by zdragon52; 02-28-2010 at 11:58 AM.
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2010, 12:05 PM
SPFR SPFR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoHawk View Post
If any other members are considering this type of project, don't do it to save money because you won't. I paid $630 for the pistol & spent another $600 for parts, material & a few minor tools. $1200 to $1300 would buy you a high quality 1911.
The reason I did this upgrade was to become accustom to working on 1911s.
After 3 weeks of on & off work, mostly off, last night I completed the rebuild of my SA Mil-Spec.
Stainless Steel parts installed from Ed Brown, barrel bushing, 2 piece full length guide rod, slide stop, thumb safety, firing pin, firing pin stop, ejector, extra long extractor, alum. trigger, dis connector, sear, sear spring, extended mag release, hammer/strut, main spring housing, beveled mag well, grip screws, all springs & all pins. Drop in SS Beaver tail Grip Safety from Wilson Combat. I also bought an Ed Brown sear jig.
BUT... the pride, knowledge acquired, and the ability to show off the work that you did by yourself...priceless
Nice work...and it sounds like you had a lot of it. Thanks for sharing.
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2010, 04:13 PM
MoHawk MoHawk is offline
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On Monday morning I called Wilson Combat to talk with them about the drop-in Grip Safety. I indicated to them that I had ordered the wrong part# by using their code chart. The rep told me "there is no such thing as a drop-in gs for a Springfield. There is to much variation in the frames." I told him to send me the 429SC & he gave me RA# to return the 429SG.

The new part arrived today & would not fit. On the SG the bottom of the hammer rest near the pin hole was squared off. On the SC that area is longer & has a radius. Due to this the SC hits the frame tangs before you can insert the TS. I thought what the heck its only $32 & started filing. After getting that area filed where it needed to be the GS still would not go into the frame enough to insert the pin. I took my calipers & started measuring every part of the GS. I discovered the little tang that is on the front of the GS was .006 longer & .004 taller than the SG. After about 1 hour of constant filing & fitting the new GS would work.

After the fitting work, the fit of the SC is considerable better than the SG.
Having said that, I am still not pleased with the results & will probably radius the frame & install a fitted GS later.
Wilson 429SG

Wilson 429SC



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  #14  
Old 03-06-2010, 01:36 AM
KJ308 KJ308 is offline
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You know, the only comment I have is, why would you replace the perfectly good GI plug and guide and replace it with that pointless FLGR business?? lol, j/k :-D
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