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  #1  
Old 02-18-2010, 09:11 PM
1911DETECTIVE 1911DETECTIVE is offline
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John Norrell Moly Resin




Anyone have any experiences w/ the Moly Resin? How does it hold up to Durakote, Gunkote, Cerakote,...etc????
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  #2  
Old 02-18-2010, 10:32 PM
ammo_x_fuzztone ammo_x_fuzztone is offline
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I've used it on about 8 guns so far.

It goes on thinner and cures harder than Gunkote or Duracoat. It's my preferred gunpaint.
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:31 PM
1911DETECTIVE 1911DETECTIVE is offline
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Got any pics?
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:20 AM
ammo_x_fuzztone ammo_x_fuzztone is offline
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This is the only pic I could dig up on short notice.

It's their flat OD green.

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  #5  
Old 02-19-2010, 05:54 AM
shootsenmeister shootsenmeister is offline
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I have used all the finishes you have asked about. Cerakote and Norrells are my number on choice based on what I have used. Cerakote is a great finish that goes on thin but not as thin as Norrells. Cerakote also has some lubricating abilities to it that you can feel, yet I find myself using Norrells on more projects than Cerakote.

Gunkote is very similar to Norrells. Some people have posted saying Gunkote and Norrells are the same product, they are similar but I do not think they are exactly the same.

Having used Duracoat I would not recommend it to anyone unless they must use colors that only Duracoat offers. . I think of Duracoat as more of an automotive type paint than a firearms coating.

My. 02
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:17 AM
ammo_x_fuzztone ammo_x_fuzztone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootsenmeister View Post
Having used Duracoat I would not recommend it to anyone unless they must use colors that only Duracoat offers. . I think of Duracoat as more of an automotive type paint than a firearms coating.

My. 02
Duracoat reminds me a lot of Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II... a thick epoxy paint with no lubrication properties that takes at least a week to properly cure. I once made the mistake of using it on a pistol, and I found out that it doesn't work well on places like the slide rails. It was galling and slowing down the slide, and needed to be diligently lubed for the gun to function.

It was also so thick that when you did get a chip or scratch, it would tend to come off in flakes.

Those kinds of finishes work better on things like AR-15 furniture and parts that won't move around a lot.
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2010, 01:23 PM
Pacman Pacman is offline
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I've used Norrell's moly coat on several guns and really like it. I haven't used the others so I can't comment on them.

With Norrell's the surface of the metal will determine how well it stays on. If you shoot it over Parkerizing then it is hard and resilient as hell. If you shoot it on smooth finished metal it will come off fairly easily. I think I've heard that glass bead blasting gives a good surface for the moly coat to adhere. But, don't quote me on that.

Chris
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:10 PM
ammo_x_fuzztone ammo_x_fuzztone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacman View Post
I've used Norrell's moly coat on several guns and really like it. I haven't used the others so I can't comment on them.

With Norrell's the surface of the metal will determine how well it stays on. If you shoot it over Parkerizing then it is hard and resilient as hell. If you shoot it on smooth finished metal it will come off fairly easily. I think I've heard that glass bead blasting gives a good surface for the moly coat to adhere. But, don't quote me on that.

Chris
No paint is going to stick very well to a polished surface. Bead blasting is also not as "sharp" a finish as an abrasive grit blasted surface. If you try for something about the same finish as a Colt factory round matte, that will give good adhesion. Parkerizing is probably the best possible base for the home gun refinisher.
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:35 PM
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LW McVay LW McVay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911DETECTIVE View Post
Anyone have any experiences w/ the Moly Resin? How does it hold up to Durakote, Gunkote, Cerakote,...etc????
Yes. It is an excellent finish. Like most finishes, prep is the key.
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