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  #1  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:17 PM
airborne420 airborne420 is offline
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lowering the ejection port...




by hand? I got the time, patience, and, I think, the skill. but is it
do-able? your thoughts please. thanks
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  #2  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:23 PM
zdragon52 zdragon52 is offline
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you need a very steady hand.
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  #3  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:34 PM
airborne420 airborne420 is offline
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I've done everything thus far by hand. know where I can get dimensions and mesurments?
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  #4  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:42 PM
richpetrone richpetrone is offline
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Lowered ejection port

I did this on a .45 slide and it turned out fine. The slide was hard chromed afterwards, and it looked great. I simply used another .45 for my dimensions. I reduced the depth of the ejection port with files, and placed a bevel on the inside lower edge of the ejection port to fascilitate ejection. The gun has never had a problem with ejecting or catching cases. The gun was eventually sold, and the new owner never mentioned or discussed the ejection port. He liked the accuracy and the trigger.
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  #5  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:49 PM
Dave Erickson Dave Erickson is offline
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I try to stay around .450-.475" measured from the bottom of the slide. This is a very loose guideline.

Last edited by Dave Erickson; 10-29-2009 at 05:18 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:49 PM
zdragon52 zdragon52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airborne420 View Post
I've done everything thus far by hand. know where I can get dimensions and mesurments?
i copied the dimension off a S&W1911....then draw straight line across. i've seen it done using a Dremel.
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  #7  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:54 PM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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airborne - I have tried to do 'em by hand, and IMO the hardest thing is to keep the vertical line of the port dead straight. I have a good friend who did a very nice job of lowering the port and keeping the line straight with a Dremel drill-press, which is an inexpensive plastic unit that you chuck a Dremel into. To do it that way, though, you must have a solid straight edge, preferably attached to the base of the press with bolts, and you have to go very, very slowly. It's doable that way, though, and on his gun it produced a nice, straight edge.

Hope this helps.

Best,
Jon
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Last edited by BigJon; 10-29-2009 at 03:59 PM.
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  #8  
Old 10-29-2009, 03:19 PM
airborne420 airborne420 is offline
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thank you all for your input.

gonna go at it by hand. not to worried about it "looking" pretty, much more concerned with it "working" right.

again, thank y'all
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  #9  
Old 10-29-2009, 03:25 PM
ddg4238 ddg4238 is offline
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I have done several by hand with Dremel, file, and sandpaper. As stated, this is a pretty tedious job and hard to get the lines straight, but it can be done.
Good Luck.
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  #10  
Old 10-29-2009, 03:40 PM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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airborn - I'm gonna throw a little more at you to, hopefully, prevent you from making one of the big mistakes I made early on.

Realize that ddg4238 knows he has the skill to do this by hand. He is a professional pistolsmith and also an expert with a file. However, you mentioned that you "think" you have the skill, and that being the case I'd urge you to send it out and have the port milled. I speak from personal experience, and I hope you'll take that into account when you make your decision.

The first two things that knowledgeable people will look at to judge the quality of the work on your gun are the grip-safety fit and the port work. If those two aren't dead, smack-on perfect, they immediately think "hack job" and they won't lose that opinion of it.

I tried doing them by hand, and frankly I thought it looked pretty darned good. I dug around and found a photo of one in-progress I tried to do a couple of years ago:



Looked okay to me. The lines are pretty straight, right?

Okay now look at the next picture, which is one done by either either Rogers or Rodgers (can't remember which):



See the difference. The only relevant difference is this: the port in the latter photo is perfect.

If you want to read more about how I learned that (one of the very first lessons the resident gurus enlightened me about), I dug around and found the old thread for you: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=178825

So, if you're a tool-and-dye maker quality filer, I'm sure it can be done by hand. And as I mentioned earlier, I've also seen it done with a Dremel drill press (with the work solidly anchored, and very, very gentle passes). If you aren't sure - absolutely sure - you can cut a perfect port by either method, have someone mill it for you. Or, you can do like me - ruin a few slides and chalk it up to tuition.

Hope this helps.

Best,
Jon
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  #11  
Old 10-29-2009, 03:50 PM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airborne420 View Post
not to worried about it "looking" pretty, much more concerned with it "working" right.
Just saw this. Is the gun not "working right" now? If it is working right, then there's nothing to fix, and the modification IS aesthetic (looks "pretty). If it isn't working right not, then what is the problem you're having, and how is that problem being caused by the port wall being at standard height?

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Jon
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  #12  
Old 10-29-2009, 04:21 PM
airborne420 airborne420 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
Just saw this. Is the gun not "working right" now? If it is working right, then there's nothing to fix, and the modification IS aesthetic (looks "pretty). If it isn't working right not, then what is the problem you're having, and how is that problem being caused by the port wall being at standard height?

Best,
Jon
the pics show how the brass is being damged and about 3-5 out of 50 rounds fail to eject (last pic.) it "seems" to be the high wall on the port which is why I'm cutting it down to give it more clearance. my gun can be the ugliest duck in the pond and that's fine with me as long as it "quacks" when I tell it to. do you not think that lowering the port will solve this problem?
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  #13  
Old 10-29-2009, 04:46 PM
Art Art is offline
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I had ejection issues with a Colt - I tuned the ejector and extractor to get the brass to eject up and right, not into my face. I still had the case mouths dented so I lowered the ejection port with a dremel and files - I lowered so there was .5" remaining on the lower portion of the slide below the port. I didn't flare the rear of the port cause I wanted the minimum that would work and didn't want to refinish the Colt slide - it cold blued up very nice. A lot of guns are lowered more but mine works - no more dented brass. I found the .5" dimension in a book by Bill Wilson.

I strongly recommend taping off everything you don't want gouged when the dremel grabs and runs across the slide.

Double or triple layers of masking tape.

You might check your extractor to see if it's clocking, that is, rotating in the tunnel - EGW sells an oversize firing pin stop that will allow the extractor to be fitted tightly so it doesn't clock - clocking can cause eratic ejection.

Yes I have - I hug my 1911 every day.
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  #14  
Old 10-29-2009, 04:53 PM
airborne420 airborne420 is offline
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glad to see I'm not the only one who shows his 1911 some luv.

the ejector and extractor are working fine. might angle the ejector a bit to help it kick to the side instead of at my face. and the extractor isn't clocking, the fit's pretty tight.

thanks for the tape tip
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  #15  
Old 10-29-2009, 05:08 PM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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I don't see the photos (probably just my Somezheimers acting up again), but my guess is that it's more likely your extractor that's the problem.

Lowering the port is not a general requirement for 1911a to eject properly. Think about it - guns have been ejecting just fine for about a century with un-lowerd ports. That moves the issue inside the gun.

I'm betting it's your extractor because you were replacing yours just this month and weren't sure where to even begin. Only mentioning that because the extractor can be a mighty finicky thing and can cause problems in a hurry if it's not prepped and tensioned correctly. Of all the parts that play a role in getting a round into the barrel and then getting the case out and away from the gun, the extractor requires highly detailed work on very tiny areas. Plus, it must not only be prepped correctly but also tensioned correctly. Getting the extractor right doesn't leave much room for error at all.

Regardless, though, I still think that rather than jumping in and griding in a port, the better option (here, and with any problem) is to start by figuring out why that problem is happening, just like if you were sick you'd get a diagnosis before you started popping any old pills. But it is, after all, your gun.

Best,
Jon
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  #16  
Old 10-29-2009, 06:45 PM
airborne420 airborne420 is offline
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I don't think it's the extractor Big J. I ran the tension test and position test and it passed both. Plus, the gun wasn't doing this unitl I put in the new extended ejector

so as far as tension and position on the extractor goes, acording to this: http://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm I'm good.

I do thank you for all the help thus far. so what ya think good sir? to lower or not to lower?
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  #17  
Old 10-29-2009, 07:53 PM
BigJon BigJon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airborne420 View Post
so what ya think good sir? to lower or not to lower?
At this point my answer is unchanged - I would not lower the port until you figure out what is causing the problem. If this is what's happening, ...



... that's a horizontal stovepipe. See the second photo on the following thread: http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads...page=0&fpart=1.

Also, go to the search function here, and type the following - exactly - into the search-term block:

horizontal and stovepipe

That will give you tons of information on what generally causes these malfunctions, and you'll see "extractor" mentioned again and again. Since since you've put an extended ejector in the gun, though, you've also changed how soon the mouth of the empty case starts turning out of the gun. Every part alteration has consequences.
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  #18  
Old 10-29-2009, 11:00 PM
Art Art is offline
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here's a thread on the subject:

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.ph...3&page=2&pp=10

and this one:


http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.ph...5&page=2&pp=10

These will help if you're going to start filing on the ejector nose. It takes a very small amount of filing to get the case to do something different....

The extractor hook shape and extractor tension seems to work in "harmony" with the ejector.

I went this route first: http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/e...perfection.htm but didn't get the hoped for results.

I went through 2 extended ejectors and 2 extractors before I decided to lower the port. I had the gun 90% except for the case mouths getting dented and I thought (or read somewhere) if the case is banging something on the way out of the gun it's a jam waiting to happen.

Yeah, 1911s have been around for a long time without the ejection port being lowered but I couldn't tune my Colt and there's something to the lowered port since most (almost all of the non-Mil-Spec guns) of the currently made 1911s have lowered and flared ports.
I'm just not a good enough pistolsmith to tune my gun for ejection perfection - without lowering the ejection port.

Last edited by Art; 10-30-2009 at 12:56 PM.
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  #19  
Old 10-30-2009, 12:02 AM
Bijan Bijan is offline
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A lot of great information in this thread; thanks!
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2009, 11:05 PM
tommy2399 tommy2399 is offline
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If you do end up lowering it tape it well and go slow





The one on the bottom is the one I lowered

Last edited by tommy2399; 11-03-2009 at 12:11 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #21  
Old 10-31-2009, 11:23 PM
zdragon52 zdragon52 is offline
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looking good
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  #22  
Old 11-01-2009, 02:56 AM
william79906 william79906 is offline
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The first port I ever did was on a .45 build for my brother. I used a 3/8 file for the corners and a flat file for the sides and bottom. Looks just like it should be there, but takes way too long. Now I use a mill with either a 3/8" endmill, or a 1/2" endmill. Depending on what else the gun is getting for parts and work, they look very different when finished.
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  #23  
Old 11-01-2009, 07:38 PM
drail drail is offline
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tommy2399, your port looks fine but you might want to radius the bottom front and rear corners of the cut. Having the corners cut that square is an invitation to cracks starting.
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  #24  
Old 11-01-2009, 11:07 PM
tommy2399 tommy2399 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drail View Post
tommy2399, your port looks fine but you might want to radius the bottom front and rear corners of the cut. Having the corners cut that square is an invitation to cracks starting.
I was comtemplating to do more for looks but if it will help it not crack then will for sure do it.
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  #25  
Old 11-01-2009, 11:37 PM
ambidextrous1 ambidextrous1 is offline
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Airborne, you should review changes you have made that cause your current problem; correct those, and you won't have to lower your ejection port.

I have a half dozen 1911s, and only one has a lowered ejection port; but all of them eject brass that isn't deformed in any way.

Please review posts #11, 13 and 15 in this thread; we're all trying to tell you that a lowered ejection port is a "make do" solution for another problem. For more enlightenment re-read (your) post # 16 in this thread, which identifies the problem you should address.

I note that we are neighbors; I have a milling machine, and if you know how to operate one, you can use mine; but first, we must exercise due diligence in exploring alternatives to lowering the ejection port.

PM me, if you wish...
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