Hammer won't stay cocked!!!

[CatsFan20]

I just made an attempt to remove my MSH on my GI expert as I am thinking about buying a metal one instead of the stock plastic one and wanted to see how difficult it would be to do on my own. Now I cannot get the hammer to stay cocked back after I replaced to MSH. Is there just some dumb mistake that I am making or did I really just do something stupid that is going to cost me some money to get fixed?

[Kruzr]

Your sear spring slipped out of place. You need to remove the MSH and grip safety to reposition the sear spring so the left finger is on top of the sear.

It should look like this:

[GSWEAR]

No biggie! you have the tip of the sear (leaf) spring under the foot of the sear just do it agian and make sure the tip of the left sear spring leg is on top of the sear foot.

[GSWEAR]

Great post with the pic Kruzr I was just a little to slow.

[CatsFan20]

Thanks that picture really is helpful... trial by fire works I guess when you have good help waiting for you. I not only got it back to where it was, but I actually just learned a lot about the workings of my gun and gained a lot of respect for people who are good at working on them . Thanks again for the help!

[log man]

Yep, this is a very common problem for first timers. The problem is exasperated by the idea that one can remove just the MSH and reassemble it, and that can be done. However as you get more into working on the 1911 you will find as I and many others have that it just doesn't pay to do it that way and will tear it down further and assemble it in a specific order so that cannot happen.

It's just too easy once you are comfortable with all the parts. Cock the hammer and remove the thumb safety by wiggling it out in the mid-position, then lower the hammer and push out the MSH pin and slide it down and out, remove the grip safety and sear spring. If further is desired push out the hammer and sear pin and remove the sear disco and hammer. Assuming you have it back together with the the hammer and sear and disco in place, flip the strut up out of the way and lay the sear spring on top of the sear and disco and align the tab in the slot, now slide in the MSH to hold it in place, and align the strut in the spring cap, now everything is lined up and you can see that, but the MSH isn't all the way up yet and you can slip in the grip safety. Push the MSH up the rest of the way and insert the pin. Cock the hammer and install the thumb safety. Check it out and it's good. Once you get comfortable with this you can detail strip and reassemble your 1911 in 10-15 minutes easy.

LOG

[pistolwrench]

Log said:
"Once you get comfortable with this you can detail strip and reassemble your 1911 in 10-15 minutes easy."

Some years ago I proposed a race, honor system.
Full detailed disassemble/reassemble. Elapsed time.

I'd bet a few of the guys here can get it done in well under 120 seconds.

If there is interest, we need to set certain parameters.

[log man]

Originally Posted by pistolwrench

Log said:
"Once you get comfortable with this you can detail strip and reassemble your 1911 in 10-15 minutes easy."

Some years ago I proposed a race, honor system.
Full detailed disassemble/reassemble. Elapsed time.

I'd bet a few of the guys here can get it done in well under 120 seconds.

If there is interest, we need to set certain parameters.

I would whole heatedly agree, but didn't see any value in setting the bar quite as high as 2 minutes which is really doable.

Encouragement, not challenge.

Okay slot/Allen grip screws? Series 70..or 80. Bushing/bull...single/ambi...sights...tenon or dove tail ???? Yes, we need parameters.

LOG

[Kruzr]

Can we use an electric screwdriver for the grip screws?