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  #1  
Old 08-24-2009, 01:59 PM
csorin csorin is offline
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What makes the slide 'smooth'?




What makes the slide action of a 1911 smooth? I ask because I'll be sending my GI to the custom shop for some work, and am wondering what will give the most reliable, smoothest action. Is it fitting the slide to frame (tightening), deburring the pistol internally, something else I'm missing? This gun will never be a bullseye target pistol, but rather an IDPA type shooter. Thanks,

~Kevin
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  #2  
Old 08-24-2009, 02:13 PM
sousana sousana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csorin View Post
What makes the slide action of a 1911 smooth? I ask because I'll be sending my GI to the custom shop for some work, and am wondering what will give the most reliable, smoothest action. Is it fitting the slide to frame (tightening), deburring the pistol internally, something else I'm missing? This gun will never be a bullseye target pistol, but rather an IDPA type shooter. Thanks,

~Kevin
A good gunsmith can lap and grind the slides and frames to get you a very smooth cycle. As on my Nighthawk. If you were to look at the rails and frame on both the frame and slide under a microscope, you'd see canyons and ridges. On a Nighthawk, or another slide/frame custom fitted when you look at the slide/frame under a microscope, you see smooth as glass metal. When cycling, it's as if your cycling on ball bearings.

I've had all of my carry weapons custom fitted and tuned before sending off to Metaloy for their finishing, now, they all cycle as smoothly as a Nighthawk.
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2009, 04:10 PM
csorin csorin is offline
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What then would this process be called? Springfield's custom sheet lists "fit slide to frame". I'm under the impression that this is more an accuracy issue than how smooth the slide feels.

Does deburr pistol internally have anything to do with slide feel?
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  #4  
Old 08-24-2009, 05:57 PM
demo_slug demo_slug is offline
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A fresh coat of Mobil 1 on the slide rails. That is what makes the smoothest slide
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2009, 06:16 PM
JMB1911 JMB1911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demo_slug View Post
A fresh coat of Mobil 1 on the slide rails. That is what makes the smoothest slide
That's no lie.
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2009, 06:25 PM
zdragon52 zdragon52 is offline
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check this out...my GI action is silky smooth. A little stoning in the right places makes all the difference in the world.
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  #7  
Old 08-29-2009, 09:06 PM
jdm jdm is offline
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Lots of use and care...
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  #8  
Old 08-30-2009, 12:00 AM
csorin csorin is offline
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So which is it? Smoothness by way of stoning and metalurgic work, or smoothnes by way of use?
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  #9  
Old 08-30-2009, 03:55 AM
russel5150 russel5150 is offline
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ive heard of several different ways. my GI springer is smooth as glass after taking a stone to a couple of the places.

ive heard of using tooth paste, putting it on the rails and working the slide... but i havent tried it yet.

russel
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  #10  
Old 08-30-2009, 06:21 AM
ambidextrous1 ambidextrous1 is offline
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That's an old revolver trick: remove the side plate, fill the "works" with toothpaste, and cycle the action a thousand times or so.

Oh, don't forget to clean out the toothpaste and relube.
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  #11  
Old 08-30-2009, 09:34 PM
jdm jdm is offline
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Originally Posted by ambidextrous1 View Post
That's an old revolver trick: remove the side plate, fill the "works" with toothpaste, and cycle the action a thousand times or so.

Oh, don't forget to clean out the toothpaste and relube.
You could also probably go with some jeweler's rouge on the rails and hand cycle it for a while, then clean it well, clean it again, and re-lube. Just how rough is the action and what kind of finish do you have?
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2009, 08:59 AM
mark2734 mark2734 is offline
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There is a lot more then just slide/frame rail smoothness involved.

I'm mostly done with a build and this is what I found.

1. recoil spring: Rather the inside of the dust cover. On my Caspian frame it had some machine marks which rubbed the spring, which you could feel when cycling slowly.

2. Bushing fit. Most barrels step down right after the muzzle. If not the busing could rub on the length of the barrel when the gun cycles.

3. Disconnector. I had to polish the head of my disconnector and the bottom track of the slide to remove some roughness.

4. Firing pin stop. I used an oversized EGW fps and put just a tiny bevel on the bottom to smooth the cycling.

5. MSH. I used an Smith & Alexander MSH/magwell. The inside was very rough, causing a lot of drag when the hammer was cocked.

6. Barrel/slide clearance. If you'r barrel is long linked or gunsmith fit for max lug engagement you'll need to make sure the chamber clears the inside of the slide or it will rub. Ask me how I know.

Anyway just my .02
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  #13  
Old 08-31-2009, 09:53 AM
sousana sousana is offline
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LOL, or you simply could use a good lapping compound?????
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2009, 06:30 PM
Caminoman Caminoman is offline
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If it works 100% why bother? Smooth is nice, but I am more concerned with total reliability. Just my opinion...
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  #15  
Old 09-02-2009, 09:26 PM
Z51 Z51 is offline
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Money....

Take the gun and some money and send them to the Custom Shop.

It will come back smoooooth!!!!
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  #16  
Old 09-03-2009, 03:36 AM
csorin csorin is offline
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Eh, figure if you're spending almost 1700 dollars at the custom shop the slide better feel like butter. Just trying to cover my bases in case I miss fifty dollars of labor that would have given the desired effect.
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  #17  
Old 09-03-2009, 06:19 AM
leade45 leade45 is offline
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'Smoothness' does not contribute to accuracy or reliability.

Not that I believe this, but some folks say switching to a FLGR helps with smooth action sensation....
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