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  #76  
Old 08-11-2010, 03:11 PM
HOKIE_FAN HOKIE_FAN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augie View Post
I have a question,

I had to tweek a slidestop and put some black marker on the grind.
Do i need to do a more thorough rust proofing of this part.
What is the least complicated and least expensive (not cheap) method for touching up un-seen areas.
I don't want to bake gunkote on a 5mm patch if i can spray rustoleum (for example)on it.

Augisimo
Birchwood Casey makes a touch-up pen that works good. Costs about $7 and well worth it.
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  #77  
Old 08-12-2010, 06:43 PM
paladin6 paladin6 is offline
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Peening at Slide Stop Notch

New join and first post. Need help with my 1911. 4 month old high end, expensive, custom pistol. Been shooting at range weekly about 150 rounds per week. Went to shooting event 2 weeks ago. Course of fire 25 rds rapid fire. 5th mag, 4th round, pistol froze. I mean the slide would/could not be moved forward to lock or back to be locked open. The mag would not release. After using force (no tools) the mag came out and after removing the spring guide, recoil spring, barrel bushing, we were able to force the slide to line up with the disassembly notch, remove the slide stop and with great force remove the slide from the frame. There was a great deal of peening at the disassembly notch on the slide and some metal was "peened" out of the notch thereby not allowing the slide to move freely along the frame rails. Never have I seen anything like this. I could not get a response from the manufacturer and was forced to send it back for factory rework. I've intentionally not mentioned the make, because I want to understand the cause as opposed to generating comments concerning pistol makes/brands. Looking for some help.
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  #78  
Old 08-13-2010, 12:32 AM
Magnumite Magnumite is offline
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Sounds like bullet bump while feeding on the slide stop, causing the slide stop notch to peen against the lug of the slide stop as it attempts to move out through the notch.
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  #79  
Old 08-30-2010, 09:19 PM
HUNTERKJL HUNTERKJL is offline
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New to working on my own 1911's and not even yet a novice. I replaced the slide stop on my Kimber Pro Carry CDP II with the Ed Brown bullet proof, stainless. I found it would not lock back the slide on last round using multiple Wilson 47D's. One more experienced than I suggested it was probably not seating deep enough to engage the follower and that I needed to carefully file some metal off the back of the slide stop. After much fiddling, I found that the notch that rides up into the slide rail was too tight for the magazine spring to push it up (I could manually engage it but with some force). After careful filing on both insides of the notch, it runs 100% now and locks back the slide. I am slowly learning, but one thing for sure is that many 1911 parts require some careful fitting and attention to detail. After reading the one post about bullets bumping the slide stop, I will have to make sure everything is fitting and not causing damage to the slide.
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  #80  
Old 11-14-2010, 10:03 PM
BSW101 BSW101 is offline
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This is a great series of opinions on slide stops, but now I am more confused now on which way to go.
I have a few guns but my first was a 1911 .45 Auto Colt Gold Cup 80 Series. I shot it for years but had problems with it, one of which was the Slide Stop breaking on me only after a year of shooting. It more than irritated me as this was Colt's top of the line. Anyway, I replaced it , and have sense replaced that replacement for an extended one for my small hands.
Well, after a number of years I decided I was a good enough shot to go with a serious upgrade and after some research bought a Les Baer. No problems with parts breaking but I did replace the slide stop with an Wilson extended version. So far it hasn't broke and has worked. But I began to think that maybe I should put the original Les Baer part back in simply because the original is Les Baer and probably has a better all around fit as well as better steel. Then going through various catalog retail gun stores I found that other brands talk about being indestructible or the "Hardest steel" and so forth.
So the question is this: What do you pro gunsmiths and / or serious knowledgeable and experienced 1911 aficionados think about what slide stop is the best choice?
Or is it simply a question of the top three or four brands with a little fitting here and there?
Or am I right about just sticking with the Les Baer slide stop that came with my pistol?
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  #81  
Old 11-16-2010, 11:54 AM
Geezer59 Geezer59 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSW101 View Post
So the question is this: what do you pro gunsmiths and/or serious knowledgeable and experienced 1911 aficionados think about what slide stop is the best choice?
I'm sure there are plenty of fans of other brands, but EGW has to be at or very near the top of the pile.
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  #82  
Old 01-21-2011, 10:00 PM
BJHLearning BJHLearning is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pistolwrench View Post
In response to errant info presented by KA on another thread:

Ed Brown 'Hardcore' slidestops. Partially machined investment castings. My choice for my full-house builds. Excellent quality.





Colt. Machined from a forging. Dimensionally excellent. I have seen more than a few of these break off the internal lobe. I do not use these on serious builds.



EGW bar-stock. Dimensionally excellent. As of yet, my experience with these is minimal.



Major manufacturer MIM. These two were from consecutive serial numbered pistols. I am sure the manufacturer would have gladly replaced them. Note the identical voids on the shafts and the MIM ejection pin marks.


In picture three ( I do injection molding for a living by the way-not MIM but its the same initial manufacturing process) what you described as voids look suspiciously like the gate marks ( the area or entrance from the runner to the part itself). Still in a bad place for function and could be done better. We always like to go from the thickest portion to the thinnest in order to get consistent solid fill.

Even though MIM has very viable uses for other products, I don't want it in my gun. It's simply not as strong although it "can" be dimensionally superior to cast products when done correctly.
Those are definitely sub-gate marks. A simple slightly handworked tabe gate could have eliminated that but it costs labor.

Last edited by BJHLearning; 01-21-2011 at 10:02 PM.
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  #83  
Old 01-30-2011, 07:21 AM
kc87flhtc kc87flhtc is offline
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EGW slide stops

I've been using George’s parts for many years now. I cannot think of a better manufacturer than EGW. Dimensions are always spot on, customer service is great and the price is reasonable.
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  #84  
Old 02-22-2011, 08:21 AM
Jolly Rogers Jolly Rogers is offline
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Images of cast and MIM parts.

Here is a link to a thread with electron images of Kimber MIM parts compared to cast Ed Brown parts. The images are of cross sections of parts with huge magnifications. The images are striking.
electron microscope images of cast & MIM parts
Joe
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  #85  
Old 02-27-2011, 10:41 PM
OKMike OKMike is offline
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Replacing parts soon

Haven't ever really liked the MIM parts on my Kimber, after reading this thread, I think a new slide stop and thumb safety are in order.

Mike
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  #86  
Old 02-28-2011, 12:26 PM
nfranco nfranco is offline
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I've been using the 10-8 slide stop and really like it.
http://www.10-8performance.com/store...roducts_id=159

Flattened end is my mod, stock part is traditional rounded.

Last edited by nfranco; 02-28-2011 at 12:40 PM. Reason: second photo added
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  #87  
Old 04-09-2011, 07:43 PM
palladen1331 palladen1331 is offline
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45 &ed brown parts

in about 1996 i bought three kimbers a3", 4" and a 5" super match and recently i replaced all the internal parts with ed brown and they did come out nice
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  #88  
Old 04-20-2011, 11:04 PM
duallydondon duallydondon is offline
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Colt and Llama

Have a decent Llama 38 Super and want to replace the barrel,link, pin, and slide stop,,,do these interchange with Colt??? Also is there a difference between a slide stop from a Colt 45 and one from a 38 Super??? Help appreciated,, contact [email protected] Thanks
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  #89  
Old 07-02-2011, 06:33 PM
maxwayne maxwayne is offline
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I was shooting my 70 Series GC this week when the interior lobe broke on my slide stop. Colt factory blue ones are hard to find. I ordered a stainless.
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  #90  
Old 07-13-2011, 12:48 PM
rodinal220 rodinal220 is offline
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Colt Dull blue:
http://www.coltsmfg.com/ShopOnline/t...1/Default.aspx

Yes,it looks like Brownells is not showing any Colt factory blue slide stops currently,only SS.
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  #91  
Old 07-13-2011, 03:00 PM
maxwayne maxwayne is offline
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I ended up getting a stainless from Midway and a blue from Colt. Colt said they are not making bright blue at "this time".
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  #92  
Old 09-20-2011, 12:23 PM
dingpcruz dingpcruz is offline
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Quote:
Major manufacturer MIM. These two were from consecutive serial numbered pistols. I am sure the manufacturer would have gladly replaced them. Note the identical voids on the shafts and the MIM ejection pin marks.

This slide stop looks like the one with my GSG 1911 and must be with the SIG re-brand. The shaft is slightly undersized. Any idea of the nominal shaft diameter for the standard 1911 slide stop?
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  #93  
Old 09-20-2011, 04:28 PM
BBBBill BBBBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dingpcruz View Post
...Any idea of the nominal shaft diameter for the standard 1911 slide stop?
.1985" -.2005" per the blueprint. Oversizes are available from EGW to accomodate out of spec/worn frames or allow for match prepping a gun.
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  #94  
Old 09-23-2011, 08:35 AM
TimH70 TimH70 is offline
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What is the overall opinion on Kings parts? I installed a Kings ambi safety for a friend years ago, and thought their design was superior the the common ambi safety...
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  #95  
Old 10-23-2011, 08:27 PM
Beachboy Beachboy is offline
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10-8 Gen 2 slide stops?

I realize that this is a long running thread and I see nfranco has make 1 reference to the 10-8 SS, but does anyone else have experince with the 10-8 Generation 2 slide stops?
I am considering ordering a couple, 1 for my SA TRP and 1 for my SW1911, both in stainless.
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  #96  
Old 10-24-2011, 06:53 AM
navman navman is offline
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The 10-8 Gen 2 is the heat! I used one on this recent build and it is not only excellent dimensionally, the pad is a great size and length for positive control and the the lobe is angled to make re-inserting into the frame easier, no more idiot scratching.

I will be using them again!
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  #97  
Old 10-24-2011, 08:51 AM
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DeltaKilo DeltaKilo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navman View Post
The 10-8 Gen 2 is the heat! I used one on this recent build and it is not only excellent dimensionally, the pad is a great size and length for positive control and the the lobe is angled to make re-inserting into the frame easier, no more idiot scratching.

I will be using them again!
I have to agree, 10-8's SS is the Bee's Knees.
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  #98  
Old 10-28-2011, 05:26 PM
John in AR John in AR is offline
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Question - what would be the most-recommended drop-in replacement slide stop, for those of us who lack the touch & knowledge to fine-fit one like the Brown Hardcore?

Carry-gun use, where the main concern is reliable function and longevity with full power .45acp loads.

Thanks
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  #99  
Old 10-28-2011, 05:36 PM
Horoscope Fish Horoscope Fish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in AR View Post
Question - what would be the most-recommended drop-in replacement slide stop ... Carry-gun use...
Granted I'm not a Gunsmith, nor have I ever played one on TV or lied about being one to get in a girls pants. Okay, so there was that one time but more to the point... I don't think there's any slide stop out there I'd consider a "drop in" part. Especially on a carry-piece.
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  #100  
Old 10-28-2011, 05:58 PM
John in AR John in AR is offline
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'Drop-in' with the caveat of "much testing & confirmation of function to follow".

Reason I ask is that literally today - just hours before finding this thread - I replaced the slde stop on one of my guns with a colt stainless, and now I see that they apparently have a reputation for shorn lobes. Dropped-in today with no fitting or polishing, I then ran probably 150-200 rounds thru the gun and the new stop solved the slide-lock failures I'd been having; but if this brand tends to break, I'd like to find a better one, as this definitely is a defensive piece.
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