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#26
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() Best, Jon. Looks like the notch isn't cut into the thin area of the lug where it attaches to the flat, so
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1911Pro.com |
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#27
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Can we change the name from Idiot scratch to something like Break in mar, or oopsydoodle spot, or jaw dropper, or resale killer or anything else that doesnt call us IDIOTS.
Only my wife gets to call me that.
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#28
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This idea is awesome!!! I just finished doing it to two of my 1911's and it works like a charm. Makes reassembly much easier. I'm off to modify the rest of my guns. Thanks so much for sharing this info.
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#29
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Nope...Idiot Scratch is the perfect name for it. Simply because it is totally preventable.
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Treat me good, I'll treat you better. Treat me bad, I'll treat you worse. |
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#30
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My Wilson 1911's have a similar groove in the slide stop. It does simplify reassembly.
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Good shooting and be safe. LB |
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#31
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Log Man, I also would like to thank you. It's simple and works great.
------------ The only thing that keeps me from calling it that is every 1911 I have seen from WWI and WWII has one and I think they were all brave soldiers.
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Jesus is Lord Last edited by Bluetooth; 11-16-2008 at 04:56 PM. Reason: spelling |
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#32
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Quote:
LOG
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Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences! Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous... |
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#33
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OK, to be politically correct, I'm going to start calling the Idiot Scratch
"Negligent Reassembly Error". Is that better?
__________________
Treat me good, I'll treat you better. Treat me bad, I'll treat you worse. |
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#34
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yep
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#35
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Quote:
![]() It's such a standard term though maybe just shorten it to IS. LOG
__________________
Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences! Ask 1911Pro! Resident RKI.......it gun....gun dangerous... |
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#36
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I know this is an old thread, but I would like to say thanks for the information. I helped a buddy of mine do the same modification on my recently acquired CBOB, and it makes life a lot easier for re-assembly. I much rather be able to just push the part straight in, instead of fumbling with a flat head screwdriver or knife, hoping it doesn't slip and scratch my gun.
Thanks for the great info.
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Wilson XTAC, SA TRP Operator, 1971 Belgium Browning HP, Ruger SP101 2 1/4" 357 Mag ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒE |
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#37
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No number of mods will keep me from slipping and scratching the frame by accident when my hands are covered in lube.
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#38
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Just get the gun engraved with a spider web pattern and the scratches will blend right in.
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#39
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I wear gloves.
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#40
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I did the mod an DW CBOB and my Kimber today.
Wish I had tried this before,...... not more jewer's screwdriver! My thanks to Log Man! |
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#41
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Quote:
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#42
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That is a really clever and simple modification, which makes me wonder why nobody contours their slide stops like that. Sounds like something maybe EGW should consider. Might be a good seller. HD slide stop with the mod, I'll take one.
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#43
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I will accept idiot ....that's exactly how I felt when I did it to mine ...not the first time I've demonstrated this type of behaviour and more than likely not the last either.
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#44
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Quote:
) Incidentally, if one doesn't want to mod the stop, another great way to avoid making idiot marks is to handle a specific stage of reassembly a different way. When you have installed the assembled slide onto the frame and run it back, line the slide stop up so that the lug will come to rest directly on the plunger pin when you insert it. Then insert it as far as it will go, letting the lug come to rest directly on top of the pin. At that point, the slide-stop post will be just into the right-side frame hole. It will be secure enough at that point that you can then ... (here's the different part) ... let the slide go forward until it stops on the slide-stop post. That frees up both your hands to do the critical work getting the slide-stop lug to START pushing the pin back. Once it starts back, hold it securely in place with one hand, run the slide back with the other until the assembly notch lines up with the slide-stop lug, and then press the slide straight in to seat it fully. The main differences with doing it this way are (1) the slide-stop lug is never over the frame in the first place, and (2) you can use two hands instead of just one to get the slide-stop lug started past the pin. Best, Jon P.S. - What I just described is shown with pictures in post #2 here: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=214825
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1911Pro.com Last edited by BigJon; 11-04-2009 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Adding link |
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#45
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Quote:
BUT - Be careful; I got a finger-wagging last year for calling it an idiot scratch...
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Semper Fi, Matt Community Organizer, Philanthropist |
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#46
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Thanks to this thread, and thanks to kindness of log man who originated it, here is mine:
![]()
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#47
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I think you should call the Patent Office!
Joe |
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#48
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If you don't like "idiot scratch", how about "learning curve".
Also -this is one more good thing about buying a used gun - you can blame the idiot scratch on the previous owner! |
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#49
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"learning curve".
Because it's curved? ![]() Kur
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more, less, KurWhen I die I'm going straight to Heaven, 'cause I served my time at Coonan Arms. COFFEE Club member #2 |
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#50
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I use a piece of old credit card to push the plungers into the tube for assembly. Works at both ends ,slidestop and thumb safety.Nick
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