How the heck did you guys do it? Those are some nice looking grips. I especially like the half checkered Brazilian rosewood pair.
I mean besides obviously having the right tools (more than a file and a handsaw), do you trace over factory grips to get the shape, or just hand fit every piece? I was just messing around, but I would like to seriously try making some real ones myself. I'm guessing the screw holes need two different bit sizes, one to go all the way through, and one to reem for the screw head to catch on, right? I saw the checkering thread, and I'm sure that will take practice when I seriously attempt it, but I'm worried about the actual grip shape and lining the holes up and whatnot. Any other tips? Thanks.
This is where I got a lot of info from:
http://www.1911pistolgrips.com/process.php
The blindhogg grip making tutorial is pretty good too. Then I simply started, first with limited success, then getting better and better. With LOTS of patience, some time, the right tools, you can get some nice grips out of ANY wood you can get your hands on.
Recommended tools:
Power band saw- for cutting square blanks out of blocks of wood.
Scroll saw or band saw- for cutting the grip outline out of flat pieces of wood.
Drill press- for drilling precise holes for the bushings and screws.
Bench belt sander- for lots of sanding to get the contour and sides to shape.
Brad point drill bits- for drilling precise, perfect cut holes
Transfer hole punches- to find the perfect center to drill holes
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5561&productid=146670 15/64" brad point drill bit & 9/32" brad point drill bit.
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/28-PIECE-Transfer-Punch-Set-Full-Hand-Tool-Set_W0QQitemZ350023859868QQihZ022QQcategoryZ50380QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Transfer punches.
Lots of other small items like chainsaw files, sand paper, finishing coatings. The proper size brad point drill bits are difficult to find. I had to get them from
www.woodcraft.com and most of my wood I get from Woodworkers Souce in Phoenix. I get desert ironwood from the wild. I never knew how much cool wood is out there, just waiting to be sculped into some cool 1911 grips.
I had a drill bit custom made (at Arizona Carbide) to enable me to perfectly cut the screw holes while centered in the bushing holes- that cost $40 to have made. I made several jigs- one to hold the factory grip to a blank to get accurate holes, and the other to hold the grips so I can finish coat them.
I have tried several finishes to seal the wood. For a dry wood like desert ironwood, I like using spray polyurethane for a super gloss and hard coating. For oily woods like rosewood or cocobolo, I use Tru-oil for a softer sheen. It just depends on what kind of wood I am using and what finish I want.
You can use what ever kind of wood you can afford or interested in. I suggest checking wood working stores or buy online if that is all you can find. The bad thing about purchasing off e-bay or online is that you can't fondle it before you buy it.
For me, the most difficult process is getting the screw holes lined up PERFECTLY. If they are off one milimeter too long or too short, a nice set of blanks will be ruined. Sure, I can file or elongate the hole, but if it is too much and noticealbe, then that is not good enough- and then I start all over. For ever pair of blanks I cut out, about 1 in 4 turn out to my expectations. If you are looking for perfection, then you have your work cut out for you (no pun intended
).
Right now I am trying to make some grips for a S&W K frame. Today I just ruined a nice piece of Claro Walnut... Oh well. Try, try again. Building grips is almost as much fun as shooting!