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  #1  
Old 07-16-2006, 02:23 AM
alaska_fishgod alaska_fishgod is offline
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1911 sear




were would be the best place to pick up a new sear for the custom carry ellite 45, she went full auto today at the range, what shock when i touched off the first round.

Mike
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2006, 06:20 AM
Bluetooth Bluetooth is offline
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How much do you want for it?
How did you determine it was the sear?
Brownells or midway, to answer your question.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...&ps=10&si=True
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Old 07-16-2006, 06:23 AM
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Excuse my rudeness.
Welcome to the Forum.
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  #4  
Old 07-16-2006, 10:47 AM
alcortje alcortje is offline
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Wilson, Brown, EGW, CMC, Cylinder & Slide....take your pick if you're sure it's the sear. They all make good quality sears IMO....


Cheers J sends
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  #5  
Old 07-16-2006, 02:00 PM
alaska_fishgod alaska_fishgod is offline
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1911 sear

After a visual inspection the corner of the sear is slightly worn (looking down range) on the right side. thanks for the welcome to the forum and the info on manufactures to pick up parts. This is the first 1911 for me I have several other semi autos non of course are Kimber and I have to say that this kimber and I have a great releationship, I can put were i aim it, as with my other semi autos I am lucky to 2 out of the clip on spot Again thank you.

Mike
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  #6  
Old 07-16-2006, 02:23 PM
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Kruzr Kruzr is offline
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If one corner of the sear is only slightly worn, it may not be the problem. The sear should have marks where the hooks engage it. If that part of the sear still has it's nose and they aren't mangled, you may want to look instead to the sear spring. How many rounds have been through this gun?

Last edited by Kruzr; 07-16-2006 at 09:32 PM.
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2006, 02:36 PM
alaska_fishgod alaska_fishgod is offline
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sear

I bought the gun used from the first owner he said he put a thousand rounds through and since i have owned it around 400-500 rounds. was wondering if this a problem of inject molding?
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2006, 02:42 PM
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Kruzr Kruzr is offline
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Probably not. MIM breaks very early in life if at all. Can you take a pic of the sear and post it. How do the hammer hooks look?
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2006, 03:05 PM
invssgt invssgt is offline
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I can only tell you that if it were mine, I would do a full fire-control rebuild before I loaded it again. Hammer, sear, disconnector, sear spring, and probably new pins. Use forged or barstock stuff for the first three, Colt for the fourth and I have had real good luck with USGI for the pins. It would also be a good idea to have a competent 1911 mechanic fit the works.

Hope you get it sorted out OK.
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2006, 03:26 PM
alaska_fishgod alaska_fishgod is offline
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well i have a photo but can not figure out hw to get it on the thread
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2006, 04:27 PM
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Kruzr Kruzr is offline
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if it's small enough, you can attach it. Use the Attach files box under Additional Options in the reply window. Or, if you have a website, you can post the pic here and put the URL in between [img] and [/img] to make it show-up in the thread.

If parts aren't broken, there is no reason to replace them other than to make parts makers more money.
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2006, 09:27 PM
Hansgraf Hansgraf is offline
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Definitely take a look at your sear spring too. It may be damaged, installed wrong, or just worn out. There are several good trigger job tutorials around that will tell you what weights to set the sear and trigger springs at. I recommend the Wilson tool sear, I've used 3 of them and just have to add the relief cut, no work on the sear face for polishing or angle as it comes set right from Wilson.

Unless a chunk broke off BOTH sides of your sear I doubt it's the culprit.
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  #13  
Old 07-17-2006, 09:54 AM
TheGerk TheGerk is offline
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If you replace the sear the hammer should be replaced with it, I would do a full exam on the firing system. The full auto thing sounds like a sear spring issue.
Good Luck
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