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  #1  
Old 06-17-2006, 04:27 PM
Catbird33 Catbird33 is offline
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Reinstalling the slide stop




[Other than just being careful:]
What method do the professionals use to reinstall slide stops without creating the "idiot scratch" on the frame? Is there a special tool or technique that they use?

I tried a forum SEARCH, but couldn't locate what I was looking for.
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  #2  
Old 06-17-2006, 05:05 PM
ClarkEMyers ClarkEMyers is online now
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there is a whole thread that starts slide stop installation tool

1911Forum > Hardware & Accessories > Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
Slide Stop Installation Tool. I get hits on idiot mark as well.

Quote:
Brownells offers one - screwdriver shaped, with a recessed end for pushing in on the plunger.

It's made to help with thumb safety insertion, but works with slide stops too.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...TENT+DEPRESSOR
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2006, 05:08 PM
sebell sebell is offline
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I'm curious to know how these "idiot marks" are created, and what they look like. I've never had any issues with the slide stop when reassembling.
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  #4  
Old 06-17-2006, 05:29 PM
Ben S. Ben S. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebell
I'm curious to know how these "idiot marks" are created, and what they look like. I've never had any issues with the slide stop when reassembling.
When reassembling your 1911, let the slide stop hang down in the trigger guard area. Then move it up toward the notch, and as soon as it reaches the frame, instead of lifting it up a bit, let the slide stop scrape along the frame as you swing it up toward the notch. Maybe even bear down a bit as you do it. You will have a nicely arched scratch in your frame!

That's the idiot mark--don't actually do this, you idiot!
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  #5  
Old 06-17-2006, 05:38 PM
Catbird33 Catbird33 is offline
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sebell -
The "idiot scratch" I'm referring to is a vertical scratch (arc) in the frame below the slide stop lever. It's caused when the underside of the slide stop contacts the frame as you try to maneuver the slide stop into position to 'snick' in place.
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2006, 05:53 PM
Catbird33 Catbird33 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClarkEMyers
1911Forum > Hardware & Accessories > Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
Slide Stop Installation Tool...
Thanks; I didn't know such a tool existed. I haven't had a whole lot of luck using pieces of plastic CCs, wooden toothpicks, popcicle sticks, etc. My plunger springs must be super strong or something because it seems to take quite a bit of force to push the plunger pin in. Maybe I'll lube one of them and work it back and forth and see if it loosens things up.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 06-17-2006, 05:55 PM
sebell sebell is offline
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Ahh, I stand enlightened.
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  #8  
Old 06-17-2006, 11:01 PM
Magnum Man Magnum Man is offline
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I use a small flathead eyeglass screwdriver to depress the plunger. Works nicely if you are careful.
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2006, 02:11 AM
Nick A Nick A is offline
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The slide stop should be fitted such that a straight push down into the takedown notch is all that's needed.

I know that many production pistols are not so finely made, but that's my big gripe about the modern 1911 industry. The quality details that made the 1911 such a winner for 70 years (and the quality that many non-1911 pistols still exhibit) have been lost to too many modern manufacturers.
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  #10  
Old 06-18-2006, 07:30 AM
huntershooter huntershooter is offline
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I polish a radius on the 90 degree angle that contacts plunger pin. No tool is needed for reassembly.
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  #11  
Old 06-18-2006, 08:59 AM
herd48 herd48 is offline
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Personally, I don't worry about it too much. I try not to.But as Nick pointed out, with some it's tough. And for me, it's not that big a deal.
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  #12  
Old 06-18-2006, 10:03 AM
RWW RWW is offline
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I use either a small flat blade screwdriver or the tip of a SS scale. Both work equally well.

RWW
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2006, 10:42 AM
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Sparks Sparks is offline
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Nick has pointed out that the gun should be made in such a way that the stop clicks in without any difficulty. Ok, maybe that's true. The point is that there are millions of 1911's out there that don't pass that test so you have to go on to plan "B".

The thumb safety plunger tool (Marvel) barely works for the thumb saftey and not at all for the slide stop. The use of a flat screwdriver is the very thing that will scratch the slide if it slips. Here is my method. Use a spare length of feeler gauge, say about .010" thick. Make sure the end is rounded and edges are smooth. Use the feeler gauge like a shoe horn as the stop is pushed straight inwards. The gauge material can flex, but it won't fly off like a screwdriver will do. That is how my grandfather, Wolf-Looks-Back, did it, and taught the method to me.

-Sparks
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2006, 05:38 PM
absit absit is offline
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I've never had the problem on my RIA, fits fine every time. I suppose if I did scratch it I'd say "Oh..cool", because it's a tool and a weapon, not a show piece.
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:05 PM
swamp yankee swamp yankee is offline
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I start with the slide stop rotated SLIGHTLY below the plunger, push in & rotate up at the same time, using both hands,one at the front,one at the back of the slide stop.In almost 20 years of shooting them, I've never scratched a 1911 in this way ...........................yet.
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2006, 12:41 PM
Nick A Nick A is offline
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Hey, Sparks. That's a pretty cool idea. I'm gonna show that to the guys at the range. Many thanks to your grandpa.
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2006, 01:37 PM
DevilDave1911 DevilDave1911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp yankee
I start with the slide stop rotated SLIGHTLY below the plunger, push in & rotate up at the same time, using both hands,one at the front,one at the back of the slide stop.In almost 20 years of shooting them, I've never scratched a 1911 in this way ...........................yet.
+1 on that...NO TOOL is needed if you install it properly (technique). The 1911 was designed (and rightly so) that the ENTIRE gun can be detail stripped with NO TOOLs using the available parts on the gun as the implements needed to start or finish installing any given part. Imagine our GIs having to carry around a separate screwdriver or credit card or "invented tool" to get their slidestops in...just not needed with a small amount of practice. JB designed the gun perfectly...as is, no tools necessary.
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  #18  
Old 06-19-2006, 03:54 PM
Catbird33 Catbird33 is offline
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I seriously doubt whether the GIs cared about scratching the frame. In a military environment, I probably wouldn't either.
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2006, 04:00 PM
slopemeno slopemeno is online now
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JMB designed it right, then hordes of various manufacturers cranked them out without regard for things like correct-length slide stop plungers...Colt included.

Shorten the plunger. Measure carefully, shorten, contour, and polish the tip of the plunger. Problem solved.
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  #20  
Old 06-19-2006, 04:25 PM
The Cod Father The Cod Father is offline
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What about a couple strips of Duct tape along the slide and frame in the problem area ? Should take a bit of the idiot factor out of it . Ain't nothing that duct tape can't fix!!!!!!!!
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  #21  
Old 06-19-2006, 04:43 PM
ken_mays ken_mays is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp yankee
I start with the slide stop rotated SLIGHTLY below the plunger, push in & rotate up at the same time, using both hands,one at the front,one at the back of the slide stop.In almost 20 years of shooting them, I've never scratched a 1911 in this way ...........................yet.
This is also the way I do it. It will pop right in, most times.

What you don't want to happen is the plunger to get stuck in the small slot between the magazine follower engagement lug and the slide stop body. Then you will have to go hunt down a screwdriver to get the bloody thing back out.
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  #22  
Old 06-19-2006, 06:47 PM
Jim Keenan Jim Keenan is offline
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Swamp Yankee and Slopemeno have it correct. NO tool should be needed to install the slide stop and if one is, the slide stop or the plunger is out of spec.

Incredibly, some owners of expensive guns have been told by the maker that installation of the slide stop requires a tool, and then offered to sell them the tool!! Their lack of quality control is exceeded only by their greed!

Jim
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  #23  
Old 06-20-2006, 08:51 AM
JMB1911 JMB1911 is offline
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I simply slide a credit card between the rear of the slidestop and the plunger, once the slidestop is in place, I just pull out the c.c. It's much easier to position the slidestop when you have a slick piece of plastic between the 2 parts.
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  #24  
Old 06-20-2006, 07:06 PM
DevilDave1911 DevilDave1911 is offline
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Start with the slide cut aligned with the frame opening and with the slide stop in the top pictures position. Gently press inwards and upwards. The trick here is to push the slide stop so that the plunger does not get into the slide stop slot, but below it, so that it gets to the flat part of the flat slide stop face.

the second photos shows you the plunger as it starts climbing to the flat slide stop face. Keep pushing inwards and upwards.

the last photo you can see that the slide stop has entered the frame and the slide cut, and is almost fully into its final position.

The slidestop is designed so that it has your credit card, slidetop install tool, sheet metal or screwdriver built right into it...its that narrowing curved part that eases the plunger back (as shown in the very top photo)...no tools should be necessary if you do it right.

These photos are from m1911.org in their techniques section...
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Last edited by DevilDave1911; 06-20-2006 at 07:09 PM.
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  #25  
Old 06-20-2006, 07:16 PM
Jhp147 Jhp147 is online now
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help

Making sure there is a bit or more of my favorite breed of gun lube on the back of the catch where it touches the plunger in re-installation helps me, too. Wipe away excess, I'm done.
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