Kimber Common Problems and Fixes...

[Freakdaddy]

Originally Posted by JBZ

How did you polish the feed ramp?

Scroll up to post #59. Use light pressure and let the tool do the work...it won't take much to get it nice and shiny.

[rdh]

Problem: Fed fine, but after about 500 rounds began to misfeed.

Solution: installed new Wolff recoil spring and problem gone.

[epaskus]

New to this forum so please forgive any noob statements...

I recently bought a used Kimber Warrior. First box of 50 and it had one FTL. However, the slide would not lock open when the magazine was empty. I was using Blazer Brass FMJ and the factory mag. After reading the posts on here, I see there is alot of talk about factory mags being underpar. I also don't feel that a pistol needs a break in period, especially a $1000 pistol. Shouldn't it function perfectly out of the box? Well, any suggestions about what could be causing the FTL and the failure of the slide stop would be appreciated, I have a feeling the problems are related to the mags, just wanted a second opinion.

[ssnell]

Originally Posted by epaskus

New to this forum so please forgive any noob statements...

I recently bought a used Kimber Warrior. First box of 50 and it had one FTL. However, the slide would not lock open when the magazine was empty. I was using Blazer Brass FMJ and the factory mag. After reading the posts on here, I see there is alot of talk about factory mags being underpar. I also don't feel that a pistol needs a break in period, especially a $1000 pistol. Shouldn't it function perfectly out of the box? Well, any suggestions about what could be causing the FTL and the failure of the slide stop would be appreciated, I have a feeling the problems are related to the mags, just wanted a second opinion.

Kimber recommends a 500 round break in period for all their new pistols, and no, you shouldn't expect it to function perfectly out of the box.
Try cleaning the pistol really well, and lubing the heck out of it, and then clean and wax the inside of the mags, and go back to the range and see what you have going on! you might be pleasantly surprised.

[JBZ]

Originally Posted by ssnell

Kimber recommends a 500 round break in period for all their new pistols, and no, you shouldn't expect it to function perfectly out of the box.
Try cleaning the pistol really well, and lubing the heck out of it, and then clean and wax the inside of the mags, and go back to the range and see what you have going on! you might be pleasantly surprised.

Please explain what you mean by wax the magazine.

[hblac]

1st time poster here. Glad I found this forum with all the great info on the Kimbers. I've got a Kimber Pro Carry II which I've had for about three months and ~900 rounds through it. Like many in this thread I've had quite a few problems with failure to feed issues especially with hollow points. I've had a couple of local smith's work on it with the same outcome. So, after reading here had my dealer box it up and send it back to Kimber for repair (the feed ramp is rough). Will let you know the result when I get it back. When it feeds properly it the most accurate semi-auto I own.

As a side note I've ordered another 1911 style pistol, a Detonics Service Master. Apparently they've just started making them again. Anyone here have any experience with them?

Hal

[glock2740]

Originally Posted by Rjb_213

Gun: Kimber Elite Carry

Problem: Dim Night Sights

Fix: Called the Custom Shop. Shipped in the slide. Brand new bright night sights back on my pistol in less than a week and it shoots right on. Thanks Kimber!

P.S. Never a FTF or FTE in this pistol.

How old was it? And did you buy it new?

[hblac]

Originally Posted by hblac

1st time poster here. Glad I found this forum with all the great info on the Kimbers. I've got a Kimber Pro Carry II which I've had for about three months and ~900 rounds through it. Like many in this thread I've had quite a few problems with failure to feed issues especially with hollow points. I've had a couple of local smith's work on it with the same outcome. So, after reading here had my dealer box it up and send it back to Kimber for repair (the feed ramp is rough). Will let you know the result when I get it back. When it feeds properly it the most accurate semi-auto I own.

As a side note I've ordered another 1911 style pistol, a Detonics Service Master. Apparently they've just started making them again. Anyone here have any experience with them?

Hal

Good news! Got my Pro Carry II back the other day from Kimber. Great Service, took just a little over a week door to door. Took it to the range today and had not one failure to feed. Even put some Hornady +P (Kimber says not to use +P's in this model) 230 gr TAP FPD and Pow'RBall +P 165 gr. Not one failure to feed! Also did about 150 rounds of PMC 230 gr FMJ.

The work they did was to ream & polish the barrel chamber and adjust the extractor. The only problem now is a minor one. I get popped in the glasses several times with ejected shells. Anyway, very happy with it now.

FYI, the Kimber technician said from they're testing Federal Hydra Shocks and Remington Golden Sabers are the best feeding hollow points for the Pro Carry II. Also, as mentioned above the Hornady's and Pow'RBalls work fine too. They also said if you use +P's you can expect to break springs or need early spring replacement.

Hal

[rdh]

Problem: Kimber TLE II functioned fine with factory ball and Golden Sabers. However, with handloads it would begin to misfeed at about round 35. It was as if the gun got too picky when it began to get dirty with the handloads. Mags used were Tripp and CMC.

Solution: polished chamber but problem still there. Tried a Wilson mag with a Tripp spring and follower kit and fired over 100 rounds of same handloads without an issue. Try a different mag before you decide there is something wrong with the gun.

[BRETT C]

Ii just picked up a wilson bullet proof slide stop for my
kimber . I know that some fitting may be required but
my problem is the pin size of the wilson is bigger
than the stock part. Is this a common problem?
I have not had a chance to mic the parts yet.
Has anyone had any experience with this

[Nearlynormalmike]

Problem: Frequent malfunctions with slide lock up with rounds in clip, from new to 1000 rounds.

Solution: Filed off a little of the upper outside corner of the slide stop. Very little effort or time. Seemed to work OK on next 100 rounds.

[jpainter187]

Looks like there is a lot of good info on here. I bought my first Kimber (Tactical Ultra II) and it should be arriving any day now. The suspense is killing me!

[highrider]

Gun: Custom CDP II Ultra Carry with external extractor.

Problem: Failure to extract.

Solution: Replaced springs.

I purchased this Kimber used and it has the infamous external extractor. I was having approximately 10% extracting problems. The gun would not jamb or stovepipe, the gun would cycle normally but the on the following shot the hammer would fall on an empty casing. Because I had purchased the pistol used Kimber showed no interest in helping me solve the problem. So I sent to Wolff Springs for a few extra-strength extractor springs, and bought a new recoil spring assembly from Kimber. I took the gun out this weekend after installing the springs and fired 200 failure-free rounds. Problem solved (Knock on wood).

[pfeathers]

I have a Kimber Custom II stainless target that I bought two years ago, I wanted to start bullseye shooting and this was my pistol for the 45 and centerfire. I have shot about 500 rounds. I only really got started in the bullseye shooting this year, I found a guy that use to shoot for the army and he has been acting as my coach. The only thing I have done to the pistol is I have changed the plastic mainspring housing to a metal kimber arched mainspring housing following the brownells article http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...ng_Replacement).

Problems that have shown up lately - I have noticed two issues with my pistol. Just recently I noticed that the hammer is following the slide when loading and also noticed a small detente in the trigger about 30 percent of the time. Usually is is crisp, no creep, but sometimes there is a little spot that the squeeze stops, almost like a little grit. I have taken it apart and cleaned it all up. I called Kimber and they told me a couple things. 1) Have you ever let the slide go without a real round being feed? I confess I have done this before but I was scolded by my coach when he saw me do it. I have since used snap caps and Kimber scolded me for that. They say, don't ever let the slide go other than on a real round. You probably have sear issues now. 2) Have I ever released the hammer by depressing the thumb grip safety and depressing the trigger while letting the hammer come down with your thumb. Yes I have done this lots. They say this will round the sear. They say, always dry fire to let the hammer down.
So the recourse is to send the gun back to kimber for a trigger job, $100.00 plus $30.00 for return shipping. Not sure what I am going to do at this point. Still thinking about it.

[Bosko]

May I refer you to to the following link:
http://www.10-8performance.com/id9.html
Also, Might I respectfully suggest that if you do send you pistol back to Kimber for a trigger job (which I personally recommend), you specify that the pistol will be used for competition only and not for personal defense. A competition tune is different than a duty tune, mostly in terms of pull weight. You might also request that they use tool steel parts, not MIM parts. If they cannot guarantee this, I might suggest you void your wrranty and contact Nighthawk Custom. http://www.nighthawkcustom.com. (Customer Supplied Guns Worksheet). I sent my Colt CCO to them (we have two NHC's) for a complete makeover ($$$). The only thing left that is original Colt is the frame, slide, grip safety, and magazine release. But then, I digress to brag. Good Luck on whatever decision you make.

[TracyB]

Problem: Slide is jammed in the closed position and will not move.

Last night I disassembled my pro carry to show a friend how easy it was to field clean. I pushed the slide back, pulled the keeper pin and removed the slide from the frame with the barrel and spring still assembled and in tacked in the slide. I went to reassemble the gun by pushing the slide back to the position that accepts the keeper pin. While I was pushing the slide back into position I heard the spring release and the slide is jammed very close to the normal assemblied position even though the pin is not installed in the gun. The slide is solidly jammed with no obvious reason for the jam or how to correct it. I have removed the slide several times without any issues until now.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Tracy

[Billy Kid]

Originally Posted by TracyB

Problem: Slide is jammed in the closed position and will not move.

Last night I disassembled my pro carry to show a friend how easy it was to field clean. I pushed the slide back, pulled the keeper pin and removed the slide from the frame with the barrel and spring still assembled and in tacked in the slide. I went to reassemble the gun by pushing the slide back to the position that accepts the keeper pin. While I was pushing the slide back into position I heard the spring release and the slide is jammed very close to the normal assemblied position even though the pin is not installed in the gun. The slide is solidly jammed with no obvious reason for the jam or how to correct it. I have removed the slide several times without any issues until now.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Tracy

Is the hammer cocked all the way back?

[Billy Kid]

My Ambi safety fell off on the right side of the gun if you are holding it in your hand, that is. I did my first complete tear down last night just to see how the gun ticks. I had to get the other side out and squeeze the two prongs that join the other side. I did this and made it tight for the other side to go into. I used a leather rag on each side and used some pliers to squeeze it into place. I guess a vise or clamp would work also. Now it works like new again. My gun is much cleaner now also,after doing a complete tear down. I buffed some scratches out of the fram while I had it apart also. The gun looks really good now.

[Trooper605]

I have found a strange issue with my Kimber....If I have a round in the chamber and a fully loaded 8 round mag inserted, if the slide is placed out of battery (bumped or ect) it will not go back into battery (approx 1/4 inche)

However, if the 8 round mag is only loaded with 7 rounds, the slide will move back into battery and it will fire...... The problem seems to be that round #8 is putting too much pressure on the inner slide and keeping it from moving back into battery.

The slide spring is new and heavy. I also tried the original spring and I got the same result when the slide was pushed slightly back.

Does anyone know of a fix....outside of sending the slide back for a new one or only keeping 7 rounds in the mag (note: These are the8 round Kimber Pro Tac-Mags) It happens with other 8 round mags also.....

[MDAV]

Purchased my BP Ten II back in 2002 to start competing in matches. A serious work injury prevented me from even shooting the gun until this past month only after multiple surgeries and recoveries in the past eight years. First trip to the range after a good cleaning ....ball ammo nor hollow points will feed after gun is even a little dirty from firing factory ammo. Tried multiple brands and types of ammo with the same results, unreliable feeding. Cleaning gun every other mag change seems to help. The round is stopping on the very last part of the feed into the the chamber. A rap and tap will usually take it to battery. I need help on just how to correct the reliability issues with this gun. Can anyone help me with this? Thanks in advance.


MDAV

[Cowboy1629]

Could it be a weak spring?

[cab]

Originally Posted by Doc2005

A few months back, I bought an Eclipse Ultra. It consistently left the bullets jammed against the frame's ramp. This model has stainless steel frame/slide, not ramped barrel as with aluminum.

In all seriousness, the pistol would "jam" in excess of 90% of the time for the first 100 rounds. I cleaned the pistol and the same problem continued, but diminished to an approximate 50% failure (jamming into the frame ramp). By all means, the pistols was "broken-in" by now. Even after 550 rounds, the failure rate was 28%. While it was improving, it remained problematic enough that I could not use it for concealed carry. This time, I broke out the brightest light I owned, grabbed a magnifying lens and looked into my pistol...black oxide!

The frame's ramp was never polished! It was as-black-as the outside of the pistol. I have never seen an Eclipse with a Black Oxide-finished ramp...never. They were all polished shiny and bright. So, being the owner of a nice Dremel tool, I broke out the Dremel and the buffing compound. I did not want to remove any steel, just the black oxide. I also noted that the center of the ramp was being buffed up a nice silvery color by the bullets over time. But, that some expensive buffing. So, setting my Dremel on 1, the lowest setting, I polished, wiped, polished and wiped.

So, for my test, I set my thesis as "The black oxide's course texture caused the bullets to hang up on the frame's ramped surface. Furthermore, if polished, the problem would be eliminated. Now I had to test my thesis. I developed a three-phased test: Phase I slow manual; Phase 2 rapid manual; and Phase 3 live-fire.

For phase I, I did a manual pre-firing test, I designed a test at home. I would manually load a total of 100 rounds into various magazines. Using both FMJs and HPs, I manually manipulated the slide as-slow-as possible, round by round out of the magazine, the bullet bumping up against the ramp...paused, then resumed feeding up the ramp and into the chamber as slowly as I possibly could to test the slickness of the ramp. After settling into battery, would manually eject the rounds as quickly as I could to test the ejector. The rate of proper feeds was now 100%! Not one single round failed, and I mean I fed them SLOWLY!

For Phase 2, I reloaded these same 100 rounds, and cycled them through the pistol manually as quickly as I could, and this series allowing the recoil spring to do the work. Again, I had 100% proper feeding, and zero failures.

For Phase 3, I took these same 100 rounds of ammunition to the range. The same ammunition that I had used previously. All 100 rounds fed, fired and ejected flawlessly! Finally, I can use my Eclipse Ultra for what it was intended...my primary concealed carry.

My point of this posting is that I am noting dozens of people having fail to feed problems. I strongly suggest you check your ramp under bright, bright light and literally use a magnifying lens...not the eye.

I only wish that I had taken some before and after photos of the frame's ramp. All the same, the numbers speak clearly in support of checking the finish of the ramp if you are having difficulties.

Has anyone else had a similar experience?

Gene

I have the same problem with a TacPro II. Kimber said that the black-oxide finish didn't need polishing! I'll try it and see if that helps.

For what it's worth, I have had nightmare problems with a Ultra Compact CDP II! Feeding and extraction!

[LadyLikesGunsToo]

Reading many posts about Kimber and their Customer Service seems to indicate that they are quite good at resolving issues. Would owners say this is correct?

In spite of Taurus being a 'low cost 1911', I've beaten up their CS folks so much, I now am looking for a company that will resolve issues IF they arise and do so in a somewhat timely manner.

The 1911 that one trusts to protect a life should function without issue, but when they arise - resolving them is of paramount importance. Yes? Opinions on CS appreciated.

[wrangler5191]

Putting the "required" 500 break in rounds through my new carry gun. Multiple, multiple FTF and FTE.

Things are improving as I close in on 500..but it will be a long time before I "trust" this gun. This is downright frustrating after spending $1000. I have a "cheap" .40 SW Sigma that has never had a FTF or FTE.

If thats not enough....a weird and new problem has now cropped up. I put 8 rounds in the magazine...rack the slide to add one to the chamber...pop the magazine release to "top off" and the magazine falls out in addition to "one" loose round that was up in there somewhere. It is not the one that was heading for the chamber...it is already in the chamber.

Anybody have any ideas on what is going on? This has happened several times.

Mike

[flint103]

I have the UC II in .45 and had the same fte and ftf problem that you mention, even after shooting 800 rounds through the gun. sent it back to Kimber twice. The problem still persisted but less frequently. Decided to try the wilson bullet proof extractor from midway. Went to the range today and shot 100 rounds through the gun using two wilson mags and the original kimber mag. Fired the gun slow and also as fast as I could pull the trigger without a single problem. I did have to fit the firing pin stop to the extractor as per the directions. If they have one for the 9mm it may be worth a try.