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  #1  
Old 02-04-2005, 11:56 AM
crutch85 crutch85 is offline
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Kimber Trigger Pull




I own three Kimbers currently and all of them have the same play at the beggining of the the trigger pull. By this I mean there is about 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch of no tension play in the trigger pull. After that initial pull it has the standard 3.5-4lb tension pull for dropping the hammer. As far as I can tell every Kimber I have ever held at the shop or elsewhere has this. Is this what is considered a two stage trigger pull or is this something else. Is there a practical reason behind this and if not can it be taken out of the trigger pull. Thanks for any help or insight.
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2005, 12:01 PM
I'll take 'em I'll take 'em is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crutch85
I own three Kimbers currently and all of them have the same play at the beggining of the the trigger pull. By this I mean there is about 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch of no tension play in the trigger pull. After that initial pull it has the standard 3.5-4lb tension pull for dropping the hammer. As far as I can tell every Kimber I have ever held at the shop or elsewhere has this. Is this what is considered a two stage trigger pull or is this something else. Is there a practical reason behind this and if not can it be taken out of the trigger pull. Thanks for any help or insight.
I have a new Pro Raptor, I have no slack ( take up ) As soon as I squeeze there is resistance, no play? I dunno? John
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  #3  
Old 02-04-2005, 01:14 PM
mitrod3 mitrod3 is offline
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i just checked my Kimber, S&W and my Springfield Armory. all three (and
a fourth in the shop) have this same initial travel before tension. i had
gotten so used to it i did not even notice it til you posted.

someone else will have to address this directly as i am used to shooting
my 1911's with triggers as they are.

be safe, shoot well.
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  #4  
Old 02-04-2005, 01:31 PM
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Kruzr Kruzr is offline
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You will need some pre-travel to allow the trigger to reset. With Kimbers, you can take it up by bending the little tabs on the front of the trigger bow. A little bend of the tabs out goes a long way and it's very easy to bend them too much so that the trigger won't reset. Just pry them out a slight bit at a time and check.
You'll get good at taking out the trigger and putting it back.
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  #5  
Old 02-04-2005, 01:33 PM
On_Target On_Target is offline
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Can you use the trigger adjust screw to fix this "slack" ?
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2005, 01:41 PM
LHB1 LHB1 is offline
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No, the "trigger adjustment screw" is the trigger stop. It only controls how far the trigger moves AFTER firing the shot. Trigger take up is adjusted as described earlier by bending the little tabs on front of trigger bow. And you DO need some take up to ensure the trigger can move far enough to reset for the next shot. Personally trigger takeup movement does not bother me but I am a fiend for minimum trigger movement after release point. Be advised that adjusting the trigger stop screw too tight can cause misfires because the trigger can't move far enough to fully release sear. I learned that fact the hard way in a pistol match years ago.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
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  #7  
Old 02-04-2005, 04:14 PM
redloki redloki is offline
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I am glad that you posted this. I was wondering the same thing last night. I know that there had to be a small amout of take up but the amount of take up it has does seem a bit much. I even noticed the tabs Kruzr is refering too when I took my trigger out but I did not know what they were for. Now I know. Everyday I learn something new here.
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  #8  
Old 02-04-2005, 08:58 PM
Smitty244 Smitty244 is offline
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From Alex Hamilton in American Handgunner March 05

Trigger Travel

The screw imbedded in the front of a match trigger is an over-travel screw and when adjusted properly, stops the trigger's rearward movement after the sear disengages the hammer. When the screw is properly adjusted the trigger action feels better and greatly enhances follow through. To properly adjust this screw, turn it in a quater-turn at a time until the trigger will not release the sear, then back off a half turn.
To check proper adjustment hold the trigger back with the grip safety released and work the hammer back and forth. If you feel a bump as the hammer is about three quarters of the way forward you must back the over-travel screw out another quater-turn. The hammer must be absolutely clear and not rubbing or bumping anything on its way to the firing pin causing the gun to vibrate while the bullet is still in the barrel.
Locktite the screw in place.

I hope this info help as much as it helped me.

P.S. American Handgunner is IMHO the best gun mag out there.
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  #9  
Old 02-05-2005, 12:59 PM
On_Target On_Target is offline
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Yeah, great info here guys, thanks. I always read NOT to mess around with the trigger stop screw, so I never did. My Colt gold cup trophy trigger wiggles a bit at first touch, the Kimber gold match does not. On the S&W 1911 target there is some looseness after letoff, kida takes some getting used to each one when shooting. LHB1, thanks for that answer, Smitty244, thanks for the explanation, I'm going to try it on the S&W.
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  #10  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:01 PM
flab0y flab0y is offline
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I have a new super carry. Has the same problem. I think it can be taken out but I haven't read up on this yet.
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