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Grip Making How-To....Pics

257K views 246 replies 161 participants last post by  John Blazy 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright I finally got around to taking pictures to write up a how-to.

Materials:
Denim, canvas, or any other kinda of cloth material
Scissors
Ruler
Measuring Cup
Old vegetable can
Stir Stick
Fiberglass Resin (I use Elmer's)
Two Flat boards about a foot in length
Saran Wrap
Gloves
Sand Paper (I use 100, 220, 320, and sometimes 600)
Polyurethane Finish
Cheap paint brush

Equipment:
Face mask
Prick punch
Three C-Clamps
Drill Press
Bits (15/64ths and 9/32nds)
Saw (I just use a chop saw, although a band saw would probably be the safest)
Belt Sander (could be done all by hand, but that would take a while)
Sanding Blocks
3/16ths Chainsaw file
Dremel Tool (not necessary, but again can speed things up)

First you need to select your materials. For this particular set I am using denim and yellow canvas. You will then cut the fabric into strips at least two inches wide and 10 inches long. Longer is always better, you can't add length after is finished.



At this point you also need to get whatever container you're going to use to mix the resin in. I have found that about a 1/2 of a cup is just about the right amount for making a set of grips. Measure a half a cup of water in a measuring cup and then pour it into your container. Then get a sharpie and mark a line where the water comes up to.

This picture kind of shows the line I have drawn in my can.



Once you have all of the strips cut, put them in the order that you want them. I alternated one for one for this set. Then make sure you have all of your materials assembled and at hand before you start anything with the fiberglass. This is very important because once you put the hardener in the resin you have a limited amount of time before it starts to set up.

The following picture shows all that you will need at this step. When you select the boards to use try and use at least one of them that is very flat and straight, the best way to ensure it is flat would be by running them through a jointer first. While this step is not necessary it does save a lot of time sanding the flat side that is the underside of the grip. The flatter the board the less sanding you must do. Once you have your boards ready lay a piece of saran wrap over one board where you will be applying the resin, make sure there is enough to completely wrap up your blanks when your finished.



The next step is to pour the resin and mix it with the hardener. Put your disposable gloves on now. A tip here, if you buy the resin in the quart size it is a bit more expensive that a full gallon, but a whole lot easier to pour. If you only plan or making a few grips a quart will be more than enough. After you pour the resin in make sure it is close to the line, and then double check to make sure you have all the supplies you need at this point (resin won't start to set up until the hardener is put in).



The next step is to add hardener. The resin I use calls for 14 drops of resin per ounce. A 1/2 cup is four ounces so I count out 56 drops of hardener and then mix it all in. Any sort of stir stick will work, I just use old strip of wood that is fairly sturdy and has a flat side on it.



Then wipe on a layer of resin straight to the saran wrap on top of the board. I tried pouring it the first time, but its too hard to control how much comes out, so I just use to stick to dip it out of the can. Then use your gloved fingers to spread it out.



Then start laying out your layers, again move quickly so it doesn't set up before you finish. You need resin in between all the layers. Don't be too shy with the resin, and make sure you spread it to cover the entire strip.





Once you have all of your strips down put another coat on the top of the last strip. I believe I used 15 layers for this set, denim is fairly thick so if you use something thinner it will need more strips. You then wrap the whole blank in saran, that way it won't stick to your boards. Also make sure the part of your grip that will be the underside is on the flattest board. You then sandwich the blank between your two boards and clamp in down with you C-clamps. Try and make sure that the pressure is even the entire way around so that you don't end up with a side that is thinner than another. Also don't clamp it too tight, you don't want to squeeze of the resin out. You're looking for the blank to be at least 1/4 inch here. Also be prepared for for resin to "ooze" out. I then let it set over night before I start working with it, although the directions say if can be sanded after two hours, the typical application of the resin isn't used this thick so I allow a little longer drying time.



Now its time to start turning the blanks into grips. Once the resin has set up, here is what you should be left with:

 
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#102 ·
How light are everyones grips getting during the sanding process. I laid up some out of a burgandy duck cloth and some red as well. They both got pretty dark under the resin, which I expected, but they got a lot lighter than I expected while I was finishing them. Under hot water thay go back to a darker shade, which looks pretty good. I guess the biggest question I have is how much on average is everyone seeing the color change from the original fabric colors.


edit: Wow, apparently that was my first post ever, I guess I have the lurking box checked
 
#108 ·
welcome!
I have made a few grips from cloth and resin,and yes when you sand them they get real light.And when you wash the dust off they turn dark again!
But I found out when you apply the clear coat they trun dark again,almost like they were wet! Hope that makes sense:confused::biglaugh:
Here a couple pics of my grips








 
#103 ·
i used red and black canvas cloth, and they are pretty light but i havent finished them yet. i think i might have to a fresh light sanding before i polyurathane them . i am finding the hardest part right now for me is trying to dremmel in the design i want on them lol. so i have stalled on the ones i was making for a couple days. but i will finish them and hopefully they come out as i am imagining them to be
 
#109 ·
I've tried satin,from an old sheet that my wife gave me to try. Didnt turn out very well,I think the satin soaked up the resin and took on the color of the resin.So they were very plain looking,not to mention it took a lot more resin!
I would think silk would be somewhat the same,but don't know for sure!!
Good luck
 
#111 ·
Technical question... How do you make the little tabs that cover the holes in the frame on a double stack Para? I totally have all the tools to do this and really want to make them but that little tab seems like it might screw with the works though.
 
#114 ·
This thread got me so excited it's embarrassing.

I just purchased my first 1911 yesterday, and sent it off for some changes. Had time to do a tracing of the grips first, so I have my first set curing in the basement right now. It's a double stack, so that's what I'm attempting. Wish me luck!

Notes on the first batch? Next time, I'll be doing them in the garage, with the window open, and a box fan in the window. Whew.
 
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#124 · (Edited)
i have added a simple little mod/upgrade whatever you want to call it. i replaced the factory black grip screws with Wilson Combat stainless screws. very simple & easy to do & adds a little bit to it

sorry for the crappy picture, it was taken from my cell phone. if you want to see the before pic look in post #119 to see it with the black grip screws. anyways here it is.

http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx225/coonass350/0407011752.jpg
 
#125 ·
Very cool!

I've been wondering what to do as my son is left handed and I'd like to have him start on a High Standard Victor that I have. Thing is that is has distinctly Right-handed grips with a large thumb rest on the left grip that gets in his way. They are quite similar to 1911 grips and you've given me some ideas...
 
#128 ·
I made two jigs. One to hold the grip and one to hold my belt sander down to the workbench on edge. My jig for the grip is basically a strip of wood with two holes drilled into it at the exact spacing of the grip screw holes. I then cut two short pieces of a transfer punch to go in the holes. The grip just sits on these pins that end up being just short of the final sanded thickness of the grips. My tolerances were pretty tight so that the grip stays there well enough without actually fastening it down. If you want me to post pictures let me know. I hope that helps.
 
#130 ·










The jig for my sander is pretty specific to my Porter Cable. I threw it together quickly a few years ago, thinking I would build a better one when I had more time. So far it has worked pretty well though. I just screw or clamp it down to my bench whenever I need it. The cut out on the other piece above where the grip sits is so that my caliper jaw fits there to measure the thickness as I sand. Hopefully this helps.
 
#133 · (Edited)
I had a question regarding modifying some grips and since this is a thread about grip making, I thought I Would ask y'all.

I just bought a pair of VZ ETC slim grips off a guy on the forum but they have no thumb groove, which I want so I can reach the.magazine realese easily. Would y'all have any suggestions on how to go about doing this? I guess the ETCs are made of g10 material which I know nothing about. I have access to various files, and a dremel tool. Any suggestions on how I could add a groove myself or get it done for cheap if not?


Regards
 
#134 ·
Don't use a dremel unless it's in a dremel press (or similar) and you have the grip clamped down. I'd use a round file to rough it out, then fine tune with various papers. There are pics showing grooves, same concept, bigger groove.

Robert
 
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