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Grip Making How-To....Pics

257K views 246 replies 161 participants last post by  John Blazy 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright I finally got around to taking pictures to write up a how-to.

Materials:
Denim, canvas, or any other kinda of cloth material
Scissors
Ruler
Measuring Cup
Old vegetable can
Stir Stick
Fiberglass Resin (I use Elmer's)
Two Flat boards about a foot in length
Saran Wrap
Gloves
Sand Paper (I use 100, 220, 320, and sometimes 600)
Polyurethane Finish
Cheap paint brush

Equipment:
Face mask
Prick punch
Three C-Clamps
Drill Press
Bits (15/64ths and 9/32nds)
Saw (I just use a chop saw, although a band saw would probably be the safest)
Belt Sander (could be done all by hand, but that would take a while)
Sanding Blocks
3/16ths Chainsaw file
Dremel Tool (not necessary, but again can speed things up)

First you need to select your materials. For this particular set I am using denim and yellow canvas. You will then cut the fabric into strips at least two inches wide and 10 inches long. Longer is always better, you can't add length after is finished.



At this point you also need to get whatever container you're going to use to mix the resin in. I have found that about a 1/2 of a cup is just about the right amount for making a set of grips. Measure a half a cup of water in a measuring cup and then pour it into your container. Then get a sharpie and mark a line where the water comes up to.

This picture kind of shows the line I have drawn in my can.



Once you have all of the strips cut, put them in the order that you want them. I alternated one for one for this set. Then make sure you have all of your materials assembled and at hand before you start anything with the fiberglass. This is very important because once you put the hardener in the resin you have a limited amount of time before it starts to set up.

The following picture shows all that you will need at this step. When you select the boards to use try and use at least one of them that is very flat and straight, the best way to ensure it is flat would be by running them through a jointer first. While this step is not necessary it does save a lot of time sanding the flat side that is the underside of the grip. The flatter the board the less sanding you must do. Once you have your boards ready lay a piece of saran wrap over one board where you will be applying the resin, make sure there is enough to completely wrap up your blanks when your finished.



The next step is to pour the resin and mix it with the hardener. Put your disposable gloves on now. A tip here, if you buy the resin in the quart size it is a bit more expensive that a full gallon, but a whole lot easier to pour. If you only plan or making a few grips a quart will be more than enough. After you pour the resin in make sure it is close to the line, and then double check to make sure you have all the supplies you need at this point (resin won't start to set up until the hardener is put in).



The next step is to add hardener. The resin I use calls for 14 drops of resin per ounce. A 1/2 cup is four ounces so I count out 56 drops of hardener and then mix it all in. Any sort of stir stick will work, I just use old strip of wood that is fairly sturdy and has a flat side on it.



Then wipe on a layer of resin straight to the saran wrap on top of the board. I tried pouring it the first time, but its too hard to control how much comes out, so I just use to stick to dip it out of the can. Then use your gloved fingers to spread it out.



Then start laying out your layers, again move quickly so it doesn't set up before you finish. You need resin in between all the layers. Don't be too shy with the resin, and make sure you spread it to cover the entire strip.





Once you have all of your strips down put another coat on the top of the last strip. I believe I used 15 layers for this set, denim is fairly thick so if you use something thinner it will need more strips. You then wrap the whole blank in saran, that way it won't stick to your boards. Also make sure the part of your grip that will be the underside is on the flattest board. You then sandwich the blank between your two boards and clamp in down with you C-clamps. Try and make sure that the pressure is even the entire way around so that you don't end up with a side that is thinner than another. Also don't clamp it too tight, you don't want to squeeze of the resin out. You're looking for the blank to be at least 1/4 inch here. Also be prepared for for resin to "ooze" out. I then let it set over night before I start working with it, although the directions say if can be sanded after two hours, the typical application of the resin isn't used this thick so I allow a little longer drying time.



Now its time to start turning the blanks into grips. Once the resin has set up, here is what you should be left with:

 
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#68 ·
Geez!! How are you guys doing this?!?! I only got 3 strips down before it started hardening and I couldn't spread it anymore!! It wasn't even close to 10 minutes, maybe 2 or 3. Could the outside temp have something to do with it? It's pretty warm today, but I found out that the resin produces its own heat. Could the reaction be slowed down by putting the can in a bucket of ice to keep it cooler? Would this give me more time? Thanks!!
 
#70 ·
I have found that mixing up large quantities in small containers speeds up the curing process. In Radio Control airplanes - I've often heard it said that if you don't have an Epoxy fire - you're not using it right! It can get really hot!!!!

It's a little different but it's the same concept - it cures through a chemical reaction - not evaporation.
 
#73 ·
Very impressive and very informative. I'm actually heading to home depot later today to get a few of the materials because I will be starting this project today. I do however have a few questions.

After the first coat of polyurethane dries you say "you'll want sand it with your 320 and 600 grit paper then put another coat on."

When I read that the first thing that struck me was wondering if you meant to say "you'll WET sand them"? Not trying to be nit picky here I just wanna make sure I'm doing this proper.

Also is there a specific way of arranging the materials while bonding them with the resin to get some of the more interesting looking color affects? I was staring at the one I've pictured and was just thinking, "now how the hell did he arrange those? lol"

And final question what tool are you using to get such intricate groovings on your grips? I may have missed that part along my readings but my gut is telling me a very skilled hand with the dremmel...? But that seems sketchy to me, ha thats why I'm asking. The second pic of the brown and tan sun grooved grips is what really got me thinking about that. I love how they start thin and expand all the while maintaining perfect depth.


Like I said earlier I am extremely impressed with your work, so actually that I made a instant decision to start this on my day off haha. I also have a new idea on slightly reshaping the bottom rear of the grips with the mainspring housing to produce a more ergonomical fit and I've been dieing to give this a try to see what it feels like since I thought about it a few months back.


Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
 

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#74 ·
Sorry it took me a few days to get back to you. I actually sand the grips dry. Wet sanding didn't seem to make a difference for me. As far as the different designs or patterns, it is simply a matter of making waves in your material. Remember when you are looking at a finished set of grips, you basically only see the edges of the fabric. So any riffle you make will make a change in pattern. I typically will add a couple of rolls of fabric in between my layers.

As far as the grooves are concerned, those are all cut with hand files. Nothing special there other than patience. It takes a while to get all of the grooves cut.

Good luck with your project, please post some pics when you get em finished. I'd love to see how they turn out.
 
#75 · (Edited)
well since you asked... lol here is a set I finished tweeking with about 10 minutes ago taken just before I added a coat of polyurathane.

I'm having a hard time getting the holes to match up on the frame though. On both sides I had the top holes lined up perfect bot the bottom on both grips was drilled just a hair high. Oh and let me add that my drill press broke and wont be fixed until tom or the next day, so these were done by hand. I've read your directions plenty of times but my dislexia makes reading directions on forums a pain in my ass lol.

As far as the rolls go, are you coating them with resin then rolling them up and placing them? Basically I'm wondering if their is some sort of trick to making that happen with speed and efficiancy.

Oh and one more quick question... do you have super human speed because my resin normally starts gumming up on my right around my 14th layer. I dont see how you could manage the time to resin a little piece then roll it up and keep going. I'm guessing just practice lol.
 

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#76 ·
Those look good:rock: And yes I do roll the rolls in resin first. Otherwise it wont' harden up. And yes you must be quick. The blue and yellow set that I made for Mr. Kanaley took several tries before I got a blank that didn't have any soft spots in it.

As far as the holes go, don't worry about them being a little off. They almost always are for me. Simply use your chainsaw file to stretch the hole which ever direction it needs to go.
 
#77 ·
These are the last fiberglass composites that I've made, I have since switched to wood, it smells better while be worked with lol. I do think these are the best ones that I've come out with yet. If you look close the black lines on the grey are actually from a pattern on a shirt that I used. They show up on both sides really well in person. I need to stop taking these pics with my phone so the detail actually shows.

I've also purchased myself a file kit and I'm starting to figure out how you're getting all those awesome designs worked in. So jerm1812 I say to you, "watch your back." hahaha
 

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#79 ·
I'm working on these



What diameter is the recess for the grip screw

I'm putting these on a milspec with factory grip screws ,,,,

Also which screws would look better ,,, All opinions welcome
 
#82 ·
Here's a set that I made. I wanted something black for my CDP as I wasn't really a fan of the look with the original rosewood grips. Another thanks to the OP for sharing the process with us. I obviously liked your double sun groove design. For anyone wanting to try this, I didn't find the fiberglass/canvas part as difficult as I thought it may be, although you have to work quickly. Give it a shot! Now all I need is a new MSH with mag well. And some black grip screws. And some new grips to go with the mag well. And a holster... Does it ever end?







(I have no idea why I get these white borders. Hopefully I'm better at making grips than posting pictures.)
 
#86 ·
I used an assortment of files. I have an X-acto needle file set and started with the triangular one sort of making a line with it and deepening it with a little more pressure with each pass. I moved on to a larger triangular one then a small round and finished with a larger chainsaw file. The chainsaw files work well because they aren't too aggressive and are a consistent thickness over the entire length. It was tedious but a little patience pays off.
 
#93 ·
stone bender...that is one awesome piece of wood! I hope you post a pic of those on your 1911 when youre done!

OP...thanks alot for sharing with us! I think this week I am going to make a go of it and try some of my old USMC digital camo. Im hoping I dont lose too much of the camo design when Im in the shaping stage.

If I get really gutsy, I may even try to enlay an EGA (eagle, globe, anchor) device in the middle!
 
#96 ·
Tried my hand at it

Dear Jeremy,
Thank you. This technique is friggin' awesome. It adds so much more of a personal touch to the gun rather than just carving up a block of wood.
I decided to try my hand at it, and since this is one of my concealed carry guns, I made mine a little thinner and thus changed out the bushings and screws. When I got to the drill press stage, that was harder with the thinner grips because I just gave myself so much smaller of a margin of error. But here's what they look like.




I also accidentally discovered during the sanding (more like grinding sometimes; this stuff is way more durable than wood) that I could leave a little bit of "meat" down at the bottom for the pinky to rest on, kinda like my wife's Sig grips. For some reason, that felt a little more comfy to me. And it makes that neat L shape on the grip that makes it unique. And that's the point of custom parts, right? So the gun fits you better?
I also accidentally discovered, and you can tell from the pictures, that when I screwed in the screws, I forgot to counter sink them! So I had to go back to the drill press and do that, which is why there is a little light-colored ring around the screws without the polyurethane finish.
Anyway, I thought it would be fun to try a basic set before I tried to do any fancy flair or grooves. Just thought I'd post my pictures here and add to the cacophony of replies on this thread. They're not nearly as cool as some of the other guys' designs, and I know they're not even near perfect, but they're perfect for my daily carry.
:rock:
 

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