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Grip Making How-To....Pics

257K views 246 replies 161 participants last post by  John Blazy 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright I finally got around to taking pictures to write up a how-to.

Materials:
Denim, canvas, or any other kinda of cloth material
Scissors
Ruler
Measuring Cup
Old vegetable can
Stir Stick
Fiberglass Resin (I use Elmer's)
Two Flat boards about a foot in length
Saran Wrap
Gloves
Sand Paper (I use 100, 220, 320, and sometimes 600)
Polyurethane Finish
Cheap paint brush

Equipment:
Face mask
Prick punch
Three C-Clamps
Drill Press
Bits (15/64ths and 9/32nds)
Saw (I just use a chop saw, although a band saw would probably be the safest)
Belt Sander (could be done all by hand, but that would take a while)
Sanding Blocks
3/16ths Chainsaw file
Dremel Tool (not necessary, but again can speed things up)

First you need to select your materials. For this particular set I am using denim and yellow canvas. You will then cut the fabric into strips at least two inches wide and 10 inches long. Longer is always better, you can't add length after is finished.



At this point you also need to get whatever container you're going to use to mix the resin in. I have found that about a 1/2 of a cup is just about the right amount for making a set of grips. Measure a half a cup of water in a measuring cup and then pour it into your container. Then get a sharpie and mark a line where the water comes up to.

This picture kind of shows the line I have drawn in my can.



Once you have all of the strips cut, put them in the order that you want them. I alternated one for one for this set. Then make sure you have all of your materials assembled and at hand before you start anything with the fiberglass. This is very important because once you put the hardener in the resin you have a limited amount of time before it starts to set up.

The following picture shows all that you will need at this step. When you select the boards to use try and use at least one of them that is very flat and straight, the best way to ensure it is flat would be by running them through a jointer first. While this step is not necessary it does save a lot of time sanding the flat side that is the underside of the grip. The flatter the board the less sanding you must do. Once you have your boards ready lay a piece of saran wrap over one board where you will be applying the resin, make sure there is enough to completely wrap up your blanks when your finished.



The next step is to pour the resin and mix it with the hardener. Put your disposable gloves on now. A tip here, if you buy the resin in the quart size it is a bit more expensive that a full gallon, but a whole lot easier to pour. If you only plan or making a few grips a quart will be more than enough. After you pour the resin in make sure it is close to the line, and then double check to make sure you have all the supplies you need at this point (resin won't start to set up until the hardener is put in).



The next step is to add hardener. The resin I use calls for 14 drops of resin per ounce. A 1/2 cup is four ounces so I count out 56 drops of hardener and then mix it all in. Any sort of stir stick will work, I just use old strip of wood that is fairly sturdy and has a flat side on it.



Then wipe on a layer of resin straight to the saran wrap on top of the board. I tried pouring it the first time, but its too hard to control how much comes out, so I just use to stick to dip it out of the can. Then use your gloved fingers to spread it out.



Then start laying out your layers, again move quickly so it doesn't set up before you finish. You need resin in between all the layers. Don't be too shy with the resin, and make sure you spread it to cover the entire strip.





Once you have all of your strips down put another coat on the top of the last strip. I believe I used 15 layers for this set, denim is fairly thick so if you use something thinner it will need more strips. You then wrap the whole blank in saran, that way it won't stick to your boards. Also make sure the part of your grip that will be the underside is on the flattest board. You then sandwich the blank between your two boards and clamp in down with you C-clamps. Try and make sure that the pressure is even the entire way around so that you don't end up with a side that is thinner than another. Also don't clamp it too tight, you don't want to squeeze of the resin out. You're looking for the blank to be at least 1/4 inch here. Also be prepared for for resin to "ooze" out. I then let it set over night before I start working with it, although the directions say if can be sanded after two hours, the typical application of the resin isn't used this thick so I allow a little longer drying time.



Now its time to start turning the blanks into grips. Once the resin has set up, here is what you should be left with:

 
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#38 ·
I love these how to threads. ALmost makes me feel like I could accomplish something like this.

Thanks for sharing. I love those tye-dyed ones that Auto Mag got.:rock:
 
#40 ·
Jeremy does fantastic work as can be seen in his pictures but you really need to see a set in person to appreciate the beauty and hard work that went into making the grips!!

Brian Majors, my tie dye grips are the coolest that I have seen!!!:rock: I get positive comments on them all of the time!!!:rock:

Man, I just noticed the start of an "idiot" scratch on my 1911!!!:biglaugh: I need to find out who did that!!:biglaugh:





I am saving for another set Jeremy and I will leave it up to you again my friend!!!:rock: Taxes killed me this year!!!:bawling:
 
#44 · (Edited)
Ok guys just got my new grips from jeremy

When i first got them, there was some small tweaking that needed to be done and jeremy was very professional about it, he recieved them and got them back out to me ASAP he even called me before he sent them out the second time to make sure all was ok.

It has been a real pleasure dealing with Jeremy, if you have the chance to do business with him you will be happy as i was.

Thank you Jeremy i hope you go a long way with your grip making!!!!

ED (by the way here are my Jeremy Grips) hope you like





BTW Jeremy i think they look better on my gun then that SS you you had them on:biglaugh::biglaugh:

The colors i choose just looks better on a black gun
 
#48 ·
Thanks Clyde, i guess you can call it Desert Camo, they came out better then i thought they would with the colors i picked out (Tan/Brown), so the next pair i order from Jeremy will go good with the DW i'm looking at getting.

Ed
 
#51 ·
C and L,

Thanks for joining, and for your service! When you come home please be sure to post pictures once you make a set, I'd love to see what you come up with. As far as making the grips assymetrical, while putting the layers down I add four rolls, which then makes the rest of the layers uneven. I'll add one picture where you can see the rolls better. Hopefully this was semi-clear.



As you can see the rolls are perpendicular to the rest of the grips.
 
#56 ·
Heck that looks almost psychedelic, really cool! :rock: :dope: :rofl:


C and L,

Thanks for joining, and for your service! When you come home please be sure to post pictures once you make a set, I'd love to see what you come up with. As far as making the grips asymmetrical, while putting the layers down I add four rolls, which then makes the rest of the layers uneven. I'll add one picture where you can see the rolls better. Hopefully this was semi-clear.



As you can see the rolls are perpendicular to the rest of the grips.
 
#52 ·
that picture was really helpfull thank you. you didnt have any issues with pressing it and getting the fabric tight? i was thinking of putting stuff under the fabric and using a high density foam to squeze the stack in all the low points, then just cut the stack flat on both sides to get a "damascus" look going on. it would require a really thick stack and more waste, but may be worth it. and i had been meaning to join for quite a while, i finally did so i could post the pics of my p 238 i worked on
 
#53 ·
As far as pressing it is concerned. The only real reason for pressing it is to make sure that it is flat. You don't want to press it too tight, or you will squeeze all of the resin out. I'm not sure if that answers you questions. I've also got an idea for making a sort of "damascus" look using dowell rods. I'll give it a shot here sometime soon and post some pictures.

Stay safe,

Jeremy
 
#66 ·
I have my fabric cut out and almost ready to set it up! I have green and blue denim. Haven't seen anyone do green and blue yet. I'll be sure to post pics! I think I will try just woodland digital camo too. Anyone done this yet?
 
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