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Everything Was Going Great...

3K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  Rick_A 
#1 ·
Playing with my first variable power optic and shooting some groups... Using some Winchester 45GR Hollow Points shot some awesome groups. Rifle is a 16in BCM Upper...Mil-spec trigger. I may actually have to start feeding it some good ammo and see how good it is.









Then I switched to Wolf, Now I probably have 10K rounds of Wolf through various barrels without issue, until today. About 7 rounds into a mag I get a pfff instead of a bang, no case ejection and a little smoke coming out from around the changing handle... My first squib.

Now I need to try to get it out, so far have not been successful.
 
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#6 ·
Don't think that has enough force to jog a stuck bullet. Might be enough to break his stock though.
I've never broken a stock doing it. Now I've only done it twice. Make sure to collapse the stock all the way down. Otherwise, sure you could damage the buffer tube.

Take the rifle outside to a safe place and keep clear of the muzzle. While pulling back on the charging handle, hit the rifle butt first on a hard surface.

That should be enough to strip the case out of the chamber.

It's just one of many ways to clear the malfunction.
 
#8 ·
Sorry to hear about the squib. My only two squibs have come from Winchester white box 9mm. So, I assume the bullet is stuck in the chamber, but you were able to extract the spent cartridge? I wouldn't beat on the bullet until you can clear the cartridge case. As stated, mortaring would be my opinion on the best way. Make sure you collapse your stock all the way down before you mortar too.

The only thing I've ever heard anyone have success with for a squib bullet lodged in the barrel is a rubber mallet and brass rod.
 
#13 ·
Ken, if your AR barrel has a 1-7" twist, it might do even better with heavier bullets. Try some 68 or 75 grain match loads. If you are limited to factory loads I believe Black Hills, Hornady, Outback ammo and a few others make factory loads with heavier Match bullets. I have a rifle with a 1-9" twist that shoots best with the 77 grain SMK's, and a friend just bought an AR with 1-9" twist that really shoots well with 75 grain Hornady handloads.
45 grains is getting a bit light, although my 1-9" twist barrel also shoots really well with 55 grain Sierra Blitzkings and Hornady 55 grain V-Max.
 
#14 ·
I like to use a 30 round group.

Not really...but I have. If the barrel is fat enough it'll stay consistent.

That sucks. I haven't had a squib yet, but I'm sure that'll catch up on me eventually.
 
#15 ·
1st... Bullet is out...it was a pain in the ass, but it's out.

2nd... 3 shot, 5 shot, 10 shot... whatever floats your boat brah.

3rd... Some heavier match bullets are next, the WWB HP's just happened to be in inventory and were the only thing that seemed like they may be better than the Wolf and FED Bulk I shoot normally. FWIW Wolf shoots 1.5 to 2.5 in with this stick. I don't reload 223 yet.
 
#17 ·
a ten round group tells the true tale.

I have shot a 1moa five round 'group' with M193 from a 14.5" carbine at 200 yards.

Is that a realistic sample of the accuracy of that gun and ammo combination?

A ten round group will show the real potential of what the system is capable of.
 
#20 ·
A ten round group simply exposes the limitations of the shooter. It takes a lot of discipline and training to stay focused for ten careful shots in a string. I'm good for three. When I put more than three rounds in the mag, I'll get a good group with the first few, then I just start blasting. I have been known to fire one round and quit! Here's how it happened; I had put a red-dot on my AMD65. I took it to the 25 yd range and sighted it in 1" low. I went to the 50 yd range where I needed a bulls eye to simulate a 100 yd zero (the 7.62x39 will be 1" high at 75 and back to the line of sight at 100). I loaded one round, sighted (remember, no cheek weld with the wire stock) and fired. I picked up the 10x50s and sure enough, it was about 1/2" right of the center. I put the thing away and went home.
 
#18 ·
If you are stacking rounds on top of each other, why does it matter?

You know your sights are dialed in, you know your load is dialed in and you know your technique is good.

The first couple rounds are all you need to test mechanical accuracy. After that, it's all up to the human.
 
#19 ·
Five rounds center-to-center is the standard most gun rag authors use for measuring group size. If you want to be thorough go ahead and shoot ten rounds as well then measure, but honestly the more rounds you shoot the more likely you're going to throw shooter-induced fliers that enlarge the group size.
 
#21 ·
Forget groups, yeah they are nice and all but almost all people tend to pick their best and leave out those with flyers. Flyers happen and reflect the overall accuracy of the human/machine interface.

My favorite is a dot drill. Put a playing card out at 100 yards and try to shoot each of the 7s, 8s, 9s and 10s. I'm pretty consistent with my 6.5 CM custom bolt gun and can do it once in awhile with my 308 LWRC Reaper. My KAC SR-15 can clean a card once in a blue moon but I'm working with a 2 MOA Aimpoint there. I just mounted a scope on my 20" Krieger bbl upper. We'll see how that works out on Sunday.
 
#26 ·
I have a thin barreled, non free floated rifle that will consistently shoot small groups with three to five rounds in rapid succession with cool down time in between. If it's not already hot, ten shot groups can look pretty good, but they'll be twice the size of the five shot group. If it's already hot from extended firing it will shoot a shotgun pattern more than an actual group. Heat, barrel profile, and construction are considerations as well. For a thin, lightweight, or sporter barrel ten shot groups aren't always practical.

The group on my post above is a free floated 16" heavy that is plenty stable and takes a while to really heat up.

My auto correct just went insane and this took way too much effort to write!
 
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