My new GI FS came in

[alias5.56]

I just finished cleaning and inspecting it. Overall I'm impressed, especially with the slide/frame fit, trigger, not so much as it has a lot of mushy creep and breaks heavy.

I planned on keeping it as a GI but the grip safety appears to sit lower than my SA GI and downright uncomfortable. The SA may have been dehorned slightly as the GS matched the undersides of the tangs closer. I may take a file to it and roll the edges and bob it.
So far no surprises, it cycles smoothly and feels solid, the token mag drops cleanly, nice finish and aside from minor burrs no idiot marks.

Oops, spoke too soon. Cycling it I see where the dust guard has scratched the slide under the RIA logo. Well that sucks. Is this common for RIA?

[Cappi]

Originally Posted by alias5.56

I. Is this common for RIA?

no more or less than for any production 1911, I reckon

of the dozens I've owned, one Springer and one Para did that


..l.T.A.

[alias5.56]

Well it's thru the park plus it has a through the park scratch under the slide release. I can ignore that one but I don't like seeing a 3/8" silver steak to bare metal on the slide.

[Cappi]

Originally Posted by alias5.56

Well it's thru the park plus it has a through the park scratch under the slide release.

\


scratching/rubbing under the slide stop is common for all production 1911s.
same for under the thumb safety.
You can minimize it by polishing out any casting parting lines or spru marks
(I don't know what they call them for MIM parts)

but it's pretty much a fact of life where metal slides against metal repeatedly it will eventually wear finish

the dust cover rubbing the slide is the only genuine concern imHo.
if all is in spec with the rails and it shoots well, file on the dust cover where it's rubbing the slide .
Should be a shinny spot on dust cover where it's rubbing slide

touch up with cold blue


..L.T.A.

[alias5.56]

...the dust cover rubbing the slide is the only genuine concern imHo.
if all is in spec with the rails and it shoots well, file on the dust cover where it's rubbing the slide .
Should be a shinny spot on dust cover where it's rubbing slide...

I don't think it's in spec otherwise it wouldn't be rubbing. There are shiny places on both sides of the frame rails in three places, at the ends and in the middle(s). I know tightening a slide to frame is done in places so I'm not that concerned about that but that streak on the slide does.

I still have big plans for this gun but maybe Arnell needs to look at it.

I see the very left corner on the dust corner is shiny and the culpit spot. Maybe it can be buffed.

[Cappi]

Originally Posted by alias5.56

...

. There are shiny places on both sides of the frame rails in three places, at the ends and in the middle(s)

That's pretty much normal for any production 1911

I see the very left corner on the dust corner is shiny and the culpit spot..

while the dust cover/slide isn't uncommon, it's not normal.
Personally, I'd fix that myself .
But if you decide to send it back for a going over, I'd suggest you shoot a couple/few hundred rnds thru it first , just to be sure there are no other issues that might need addressed



..l.T.A.

[alias5.56]

Thats good advise. How exactly would you fix it yourself? The tight spot on the frame corner is so small I doubt it would show up in a pic but i can feel it. It might even shoot itself smooth. But I'm a Colt, SA, Kimber snob and depending on a out of spec gun is a stretch.

[Kodadek]

I've seen such rub marks on Colts, heck some members have even mentioned finding them on their newer Colts. Saw it on my buddy Terry's OD Green Loaded model almost four years back, another guy I know bought a GI Expert in SS and there were some marks from it as well (scuffing, light scratches). My RIA GI did that and it never failed me after many rounds I traded it for a Cx4 carbine with a retired SEAL who's now shot it some more without any issues and it eats ammo of all shapes, weights, and types.

[Cappi]

Originally Posted by alias5.56

Thats good advise. How exactly would you fix it yourself? The tight spot on the frame corner is so small I doubt it would show up in a pic but i can feel it.

are we talking about the frame rail?
or the dust cover rub?

two different things.
I'd hit the dust cover point with a file

the frame rail will wear it's self in

It might even shoot itself smooth. But I'm a Colt, SA, Kimber snob and depending on a out of spec gun is a stretch.

I don't know how many 1911s you've owned, but I've owned no less than 40 in the last 5 years from 6 or 7 different manufactures .
Most from Colt and Springfield

what you're calling "out of spec" may be a simple as tolerance stacking that happens with every 1911.

the only way to know if you can depend on that pistol is with rounds down range .
Not stressing over cosmetic details and/or less than perfect milling operations

there's a reason these pistols aren't $900 to $1500


Best advise I could offer at this point is grab a couple hundred rnds and go shoot it, then decide what your course of action will be


..L.T.A.

[alias5.56]

The dust cover corner, not the frame rail, is all I'm worried about and this morning not so much. I may give Ivan or Arnel a shout anyway and see what they say.

[Dave Waits]

Originally Posted by alias5.56

Thats good advise. How exactly would you fix it yourself? The tight spot on the frame corner is so small I doubt it would show up in a pic but i can feel it. It might even shoot itself smooth. But I'm a Colt, SA, Kimber snob and depending on a out of spec gun is a stretch.

That's merely a fitting-problem, not a sign of an out of spec gun.Things like this are endemic to all 1911s and, other Semi-Autos to one degree or another and further, it's not something that is going to bring operation to a screaming halt. Stretch? I think not. A couple of light passes with a fine stone or a flat Jewelers' file will stop the problem. A touch of cold-bluing afterwards will make it disappear.

Much ado about nothing.

[alias5.56]

I emailed Ivan and he said to send it in. I'm impressed with their CS. I'd hone it out myself if it were a gunshow purchase but like I said, I have big plans for this gun. Hell, I may even do the 2-300 round break in and have them mill the slide for the 10-8's that are going on there

[NIGHT AL]

They didn't have a milling machine the last time I asked, a couple of years ago. Arnel does most of his work by hand, they also don't do any bluing or finish work.he

Arnel does some work at home on the side, when you call ask him about custom work.

[alias5.56]

Yeah the more I think about it, I may just run it over fine whetstone, fill in the slide scratch with a Marksalot felt pen, cycle, repeat until it quits tracking. It's not worth
sending the gun if thats the only issue.

I need to function fire it this weekend and see if otherwise checks out. I don't look forward to shooting 100 rounds with that GI gripsafety though.

[Cappi]

Originally Posted by alias5.56

I need to function fire it this weekend and see if otherwise checks out. I don't look forward to shooting 100 rounds with that GI gripsafety though.

RIA's GI grip safety isn't comfortable even after a de-horn.

wear a shooting glove ...or any thing glove like a mechanics glove
$5 bukz at Harbor Freight


.l.T.A.

[alias5.56]

I just posted a question on the SA forum asking if the SA and RIA g/s are the same. I don't think they are as my old SA GI was a non issue to shoot whereas the RIA is almost painful to handle and dryfire. The SA sat higher and matched the undersides of the tangs closer. I wanted this RIA GI as a no frills truck / ranch gun but unless a SA g/s will swap out I see a beavertail in the immediate future.

[Cappi]

Originally Posted by alias5.56

I just posted a question on the SA forum asking if the SA and RIA g/s are the same. I don't think they are as my old SA GI was a non issue to shoot whereas the RIA is almost painful to handle and dryfire. The SA sat higher and matched the undersides of the tangs closer. I wanted this RIA GI as a no frills truck / ranch gun but unless a SA g/s will swap out I see a beavertail in the immediate future.

no 1911's are "exactly" the same from one manufacture to another .
Colt, Springer and RIA all have slightly different frame tangs

It's easy enough to see how the Springer GI grip safety fits your Rock.
simply swap them .
It may or may not function properly (cause grip safeties need fitted to the trigger bow inside frame) but you should be able to install it on the frame to see how it fits and feels

personally though, no GI grip safety ..Colt, Springer, Para , et al feels good to me.
Beavertail is the way to go, cause it allows a higher grip

if it's a "truck gun" , cosmetics shouldn't be much of a concern .
Wilson makes a drop-in beavertail that will fit without cutting the frame tangs ..pt # 429BC
It will be a HUGE improvement in comfort and allow a higher grip on the pistol
(which is conducive to faster accurate shots)



this is a Wilson drop-in on this Rock










this is a fitted one that requires frame tang cutting as well as frame and safety blending








.L.T.A.

[alias5.56]

I'm a strong advocate of beavertails for the reasons you mentioned. My Ed Brown on a Series 70 has been relieved way high and bobbed. The aforementioned SA GI was a natural pointer and so comfortable for a GI it was shootable for shorter range sessions. Plus, I could have one nostalgic 1911.

Rather then go through the trouble of locating a SA GI grip safety and hoping it works this RIA is going to be a 'tactical' truck gun with a EB beavertail.