grip screws what is too tight?

[Jason Skorzeny]

What is too tight to tighten your grip screws on the 1911?

Thanks

[guysmith]

Too tight is when you crack the grip panel.

[Knight Armory]

I usually do finger tight plus a 1/4 turn. Or if you have an inch pound torque wrench 60 inch pounds will suffice. NOTE I SAID INCH PUNDS NOT FOOT POUNDS.

[ClarkEMyers]

Though I have a torque wrench I also have rubber O-rings under the screws so I'm happy with anything below flush. I do check fit and I don't try to use full length screws and thin grips.

[tracyballard]

I use a small screwdriver, tighten it as much as I can with one of the small bits with my fingers and just past that with the driver.

[Cloudpeak]

I always try to error on the side of "too loose" as opposed to too tight with the grips screws. What's the worst that can happen? The screws back out. If they do, I just tighten a bit more.

I'm using the Pearce rubber grips on my CBOB and STI Trojan. I think the elasticity of the rubber helps keep the screws in tension much the same as using little "O" rings. I used the "O" rings on a Springfield with wood grips and they worked very well in keeping grip screws tensioned.

[partsproduction]

In my shop one of the most common problems I have with employees is over tightening the tiny screws that hold carbide inserts into a tool. If the screw "snaps" when I try to remove it, makes a sharp sound as it breaks loose, I get on them about it.
On the other hand it's pretty uncommon for an employee to under tighten these screws, I'm convinced it's part of human nature to over tighten small screws!

Here's a forum with info about rifle stock screws, which I assume take a great deal more impulse than grip screws on a 1911.

[michael cameron]

I tend to agree with partsproduction. I am guilty of over-tightening too.

When using the #60,rubber,O-rings,there's just no real need to screw them down very tight. They(O-rings) may need to be replaced regularly,depending on how many times the grips are removed/replaced.

I think the rubber O-rings should be standard equipment for 1911 grip screws.
They're cheap;and,they keep the grips secure.

[timcalhoun]

I'm curious, why not use red loctite on the bushings and green on the screws?

[tracyballard]

a lot of people do use red loctite on the bushings, in fact I will be using it on the build I'm doing now. Bushings are also supposed to be staked with a slight bevel to the inside of the frame for them to expand. I wouldn't use anything on the screws though, no need, it the grips get loose just tighten them, and the o-ring also works well to keep them tight.

[arlanarneberg]

I came on this forum looking for an answer to a problem I have.

One of the threads for the grip screw bushings on the frame on my 70 Series Gold Cup must be stripped. It doesn't look stripped but I can't get it to tighten. I was going to try Red Loctite then decided to ask around.

I have found that one of the four bushings will tighten somewhat but comes loose after awhile.

I read in this thread that the bushing should be staked. I understand the term, just didn't think of doing that.

Any advise would appreciated.

Arlan

[tracyballard]

grip bushings should be staked when installed to be within specs, but red loctite will probably do just as well for you at this point.

[kurmudgon]

Originally Posted by timcalhoun

I'm curious, why not use red loctite on the bushings and green on the screws?

Tim, the Green is for permanent assembly.
Real permanent, as in forever, darn near.

Kur

[arlanarneberg]

...and it was said the bushings should be replaced on occasion. I am going to order some new ones from Brownells along with this tool.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6...BUSHING_STAKER

[tracyballard]

btw - I mentioned earlier that I will be staking the bushings on my current build, but I've decided not to because I don't want to buy the staking tool at this point, I already splurged and bought a plunger tube staking tool instead of trying to borrow one, so my budget is already blown out of the water. I will be using red loctite this time. Also, I have a Foster frame with the small grip windows, so it would probably be harder to stake the bushings on this frame than on a frame with normal 1911A1 style cuts.

[partsproduction]

Tim, the Green is for permanent assembly.
Real permanent, as in forever, darn near.

You can use heat to release any loctite product. I use the green. I can't imagine why I'd have to ever remove them, but green loctite is less permanent than staking.

[kurmudgon]

Originally Posted by timcalhoun

I'm curious, why not use red loctite on the bushings and green on the screws?

green on the screws?

Might be hard on grips, that much heat.
Kur

[arlanarneberg]

I think I will try to build a staking tool before buying that one from Brownell's. I believe a small Phillips screwdriver bit cut short and welded to a 1/8 inch thick 1 inch wide by 6 or 7 inch piece of flat stock might just do the job. The hard part may be to make an indentation for the punch in the tool hardened steel.

I was going to replace the bushing with new but Brownells does not have them for the Gold Cup. Are all the 1911 bushing the same.

They sell the thin grip sets. The Gold Cup has thin grips. I guess I could call them. But I have had such bad luck ordering and receiving the wrong item in the past.

Not with Brownells but other places.

[arlanarneberg]

....now to see if it works. It took about 15 minutes to build this staking tool. I think I need to take a dremel an sharpen the teeth a little. Also, go to town for some Red Loctite and an 1/8 drift punch.


Wish me luck.

[partsproduction]

green on the screws?

You're right, I thought we were discussing staking bushings in versus green loctiting them in. No, no loctite on screws for me.

[partsproduction]

The hard part may be to make an indentation for the punch in the tool hardened steel.

Bushings are relatively soft, softer than the screws by a wide margin.

[partsproduction]

Oh, another error on my part, you were talking about the punch, not the bushing.

[kurmudgon]

A Caution is in order here.
Make darn sure the staking tool only sits(sets ?) on the OUTSIDE edge of the bushing. And stakes the outside edge.

Otherwise you run the risk of ruining the grip screw threads.

Don't ask......

Kur

[arlanarneberg]

Originally Posted by partsproduction

Oh, another error on my part, you were talking about the punch, not the bushing.

No problem. I misread stuff all the time. I did not make a pocket for punch and it worked great.

[arlanarneberg]

Originally Posted by kurmudgon

A Caution is in order here.
Make darn sure the staking tool only sits(sets ?) on the OUTSIDE edge of the bushing. And stakes the outside edge.

Otherwise you run the risk of ruining the grip screw threads.

Don't ask......

Kur

Actually the tool went to the inside of the bushing just a tiny bit. It worked great. When tightening the grip screw I could feel that the staking tool disturbed the thread. The last turn of the screw was harder. All four felt the same. Like they were being screwed into a lock nut. They remove with no problem and the threads look fine. The bushings stay in place. That was all I was trying to accomplish.