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686 Plus - Is It "K" or "L"?

5K views 44 replies 18 participants last post by  john pifer 
#1 ·
Here's my 5" barrel, stainless, grooved-wood gripped Smith & Wesson Model 686 Plus .357 Magnum (7-hole).

I think it's an "L" frame, but I thought all the L's have full-length barrel lugs.

So is it a K or an L?


 
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#4 ·
Quite an interesting variation. Can you tell us what engineering change this is (the number after the dash, ie: 686-X)? Does it have a two-piece barrel - view it from the muzzle and see if it is a barrel shroud over the barrel? Do you have the box - if so can you photograph the label and post it here. S&W built a similar model, but it was marked "International". I believe that yours was made after the 3rd Edition of the SCSW was published.

Thanks for any info you can impart.

BTW: The new model 69 - which is a 5 shot .44 magnum - is built on the L-frame with just an ejector rod shroud and a two-piece barrel.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
#5 ·
BTW: The new model 69 - which is a 5 shot .44 magnum - is built on the L-frame with just an ejector rod shroud and a two-piece barrel.

:eek: a five shot .44 magnum on an L frame???? (Hustling down to lgs!)
 
#13 ·
John:

I did find that product number in the SCSW. That model (which is a 686-6) was introduced in 2004. Your particular gun was manufactured 11/25/2003, so among the first produced. I like 5" barrels. They're a great compromise between the portability of a 4" and the extended sight radius of a 6". This may be a domestic version of the International one I mentioned in my first post. Probably made of parts left over from that run. S&W never lets anything go to waste. Did you buy it new? All in all, in interesting, seldom seen, variation.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
#14 ·
Very cool! Yes, bought it new at a gun shop in Memphis, back around 2004-2005 timeframe. I like the revolver a lot.

Matter of fact, I'm looking at a pocket-carry gun for my next purchase, and I'm considering a small Smith or Ruger .357, along with the Kahr PM9 and the Kimber Solo.

Say, would you happen to know what kind of wood these grips are?
 
#16 ·
Those do not look like Dymondwood; they look like real Cocobolo! Dymondwood has a more even grain structure since it is laminated birch that has been dyed and impregnated with epoxy and laminated together in thin sheets. I prefer real woods to dymondwood. Dymondwood can be fairly soft.

K/L frame grip size is the same. So a round Butt K frame grip will fit on a round butt L Frame and vice versa. Square butt grips will interchange between K and L square butts, too.
 
#18 ·
These are Dymondwood in Cocobolo coloring:
http://ahrendsgripsusa.com/images/revolver/Revolver Pix 4.jpg

Cocobolo and Walnut:
http://www.smithandwessonforums.com...sent/19324d1370647425-woods-grips-581-005.jpg

Dymondwood grips are often buffed to a high gloss and are very very soft and easily dented/chipped. The grain pattern follows the contouring of the grips closer since it is layers stacked up and become more visible as it's shaped out. The grips on that gun are real Cocobolo, a much nicer grip material!
 
#23 · (Edited)
Original grips would have a S&W medalion. Those shown by the OP are Ahrends Tactical grips in oiled cocobolo. I'd take them any day over the original grips, but I'd hang on to the originals as an investment. These grips have a flat front, which aids in indexing.

I managed to find a set in cocobolo for my new (old) 66-1. That wood has been designated class II endangered, and can only be imported as finished goods. There are a few still in stock, especially for square butt revolvers (which haven't been made for a long time).

I've never seen a 586/686 with a short extractor lug, but I haven't seen a lot of things. The 629 comes both ways, and I think the short lug gives a better balance for a 6" barrel. For a 4" barrel, it's a wash for balance, but short looks better IMO (e.g., 19/66 models).

On second though, the frame and cylinder are not as beefy as in an L-frame 686. The K-frame 66 was made with a seven round cylinder toward the end of its production life, always with a short lug. Don't quote me, but I think it was designated 66-7. Maybe it's in the wrong box. How is it stamped on the frame under the crane?
 
#26 ·
I have unboxed a lot of S&Ws over the years and never saw any Ahrends grips from the factory but anything's possible. Those are VERY good grips for actually shooting the gun and they also happen to be extremely attractive. Very good shape for a DA revolver. I have never seen a pair of Ahrends that I didn't like.
 
#29 ·
It looks like what you have is what was referred to by S&W as a Stocking Dealer Special Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Gun accessory
this is one I owned awhile back, the grips on it are original to the gun. If anyone wants it, it is for sale at Dewey's Gun and Pawn in Greenville SC, I traded it a few weeks back.
 
#37 ·
If anyone wants it, it is for sale at Dewey's Gun and Pawn in Greenville SC, I traded it a few weeks back.
Nice! What ya asking?
Not sure what they have it listed for, but they ship, 8644220072 is there phone number.
Be careful friends. This Forum has a rule prohibiting the sale or offer to sell or buy firearms. This is getting too close for comfort. Take any further conversation on this to PM. Any further posts on pertaining to the gun for sale will be deleted.
 
#32 ·
The confusion comes in where Dymondwood is made in different colors to look like Cocobolo, Rosewood, Walnut, etc. Many places mislabel it as actual Cocobolo, Rosewood, Walnut, etc, when it is just the color of those woods and not the wood itself. From what I remember, Dymondwood and other variants like Pakka wood use light colored woods (Birch is very popular, Maple used to be used, not sure if it still is or not?) that will take dyes and epoxies/resins easily) and get laminated together. Some people say it's like Plywood, but it isn't. Dymondwood uses layers where the grain goes the same direction and is in full sheets and the materials are impregnated with dyes/resins and then laminated together. Dymondwood will look like G10 or Micarta when shaped out in terms of exposing different layers when shaped.
 
#38 ·
Not going to argue over Dymondwood v. Cocobolo - as Taz pointed out Dymondwood may be represented as being cocobolo, or other woods with pronounced grain variation such as Bacote or Rosewood. I was simply saying that in the SCSW that product number shows that the gun was equipped with Dymondwood grips...

http://books.google.com/books?id=D8...d=0CEAQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=S&W, 164284&f=false

The WG correlates to Dymondwood. Being an owner of more than a few S&W's, I am well aware that nothing is written in stone and specs are subject to change (although I will take exception to Hudgehog - I have never seen a S&W equipped from the factory with non-finger groove wooden Hogue stocks with a decorative cap). There is no question the grips in question are Ahrends and also no question that Kim uses both exotic hardwoods and Dymondwood in his shop and we'll leave it at that.

@Neumann - The model 66 is a K-frame and was never manufactured as a 7-shot. Given the diameter of the cylinder it would be a physical impossibility.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
#41 ·
While I'm no expert, I'll add my opinions to the discussion. Grips are Ahrends. They are NOT Dymondwood. OP's grips have grain, not layers of stria. Because of varying colors in woods and in people's monitors, they are either Cocobolo or possibly Moradillo. I'm leaning toward Cocobolo. Yes, Ahrends did supply factory grips to S&W for a while. S&W target stocks were Goncalo Alves. I believe Pao Ferro was another option at one time. Most new grips are either laminated or rubber/plastic synthetics.
I used to have an S&W 620 that was very similar to the gun shown. 7 shot L frame, half-lug. But since it was a newer gun, it had the lock and the 2 piece barrel. My revo's now consist of a 6" 386XL, 4" 586, (w/lock) 6" GP100 and 3" SP101.
Ryan
 
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