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  #1  
Old 02-11-2013, 12:07 AM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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Rear of Slide to frame mating




So I need some more help from you fellows. I have this unsightly overhang on the back of my slide and frame. The slide sits forward from the frame maybe a 1/16 or more.

The frame is a foster mil spec, standard GI slide, colt mark IV barrel, and a standard link.

What can I do to fix this problem? I know I could just dremel to match, but I'm more interested in what is causing this misalignment. Thanks for your help.
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2013, 12:09 AM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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Here is a other picture
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2013, 12:18 AM
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RickB RickB is offline
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Does the thumb safety line-up with its notch in the slide? If barrel fit seems OK, then I'd say it's just a cosmetic issue and dremel to match.
Your parts shouldn't need much fitting, the barrel being a drop-in, so there shouldn't have been much opportunity to mis-fit anything, like overcutting the lower barrel lugs.
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  #4  
Old 02-11-2013, 12:34 AM
Potrillo Potrillo is offline
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In looking at the excellent fit of the grip safety, seems a shame for the slide to receiver fit to be so far off. You said the barrel is Colt, what brand is the standard G I slide ?............... If you have acess to a Kunhausen book the dimensions will clarify if the slide or frame is off spec., and perhaps you already know the slide to be "true". I have my second Foster receiver on order. Except for the almost invisible blem on the rear tang, my first could not have matched up any better, with a Colt upper. Hope you get it solved the way you want.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:31 AM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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I do have Jerry's books. I feel like him and I are close, after all the late nights him and I have been spending together. I actually haven't thought of measuring the frame and slide. I will defiantly do that tonight.

The slide is stamped with L. A. R. and some numbers. I had to do very little work for the barrel to fit. I still need to check the timing of it though. The thumb safety lines up fine. Thanks potrillo for the compliment on the grip safety. I have many hours on that fit.
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2013, 11:37 AM
asiancaulkasian asiancaulkasian is offline
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use a dremel with a medium sanding drum to blend it in. only go in one motion, pulling it towards you to avoid gouging ond over removal.
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2013, 11:40 AM
asiancaulkasian asiancaulkasian is offline
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the misalignment is just due to parts not being formed as a set. It is this reason that your higher dollar 1911's are so much... it takes hand blending and serious attention to detail to make them perfect visually. it shouldn't interfere with the operation any, just looks unsightly
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2013, 02:31 PM
navman navman is offline
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WITHOUIT a round chambered see if you can hear a distinct click of the disconnector hitting the slide when you pull the trigger with the hammer down. From the pictures it looks as though the barrel lower lugs ("feet") have been cut a tad to much. The slide is sitting forward of the thumb safety by a bit, so even if the Thumb safety does engage, the slide will not be lined up properly with the disconnector, not safe.

This can be visually inspected as well by removing the internals of the frame (leaving the barrel and slde in place and looking through the bottom to see if the disco clearance slot lines up with the hole in the frame, it should be centered, if not, no bueno.
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2013, 03:23 PM
Jerry944T Jerry944T is offline
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I was just going to write what Navman already said. Post a picture of the barrel, specifically the lower lugs. If it's been overcut or out of spec then the problem can be solved by a new barrel.
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  #10  
Old 02-11-2013, 05:35 PM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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Sounds like a plan. I will get you a pic of the barrel when I get home.

How can over cut lower lugs cause the slide not to go back far enough? I am trying to visualize how that would cause this problem. I know that the barrel does not have any up and down movement while in battery.
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  #11  
Old 02-11-2013, 05:42 PM
navman navman is offline
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As you remove material from the lower lugs the farther forward the slide sits. Think of the action of a 1911 barrel in reference to the slide stop. The pin of the slide stop stops the forward movement of the slide by stopping the lower lug feet from moving farther forward. Removing material from the interaction surface of the lugs causes the barrel, and thus the slide, to sit forward farther.
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2013, 06:01 PM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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That makes total sense. The more metal on the forward lower lug feet would push the barrel and slide further back with the stop installed. Now could link size also effect this distance?
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  #13  
Old 02-11-2013, 07:22 PM
Jerry944T Jerry944T is offline
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The link shouldn't be part of the equation unless something is really wrong. Post a few pictures, it would help.
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2013, 11:48 PM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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Ok gentleman...Here are the pictures of the barrel. I appreciate everyone's help.
My phone only lets me post pic at a time for some reason.
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2013, 11:53 PM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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Another pic. After staring at the barrel and link. I can answer my own question and see how the link does not play a role in this.
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2013, 03:20 AM
BBBBill BBBBill is offline
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How thick are the lower lugs (front ot back measurement at the tips)? How much gap at the hood to breachface (what thickness feeler gage will fit and still allow the slide to go in battery)?
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2013, 11:13 AM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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The lower lug thickness at the center(where the pin rides) is 0.125". Ill get the breach face to hood measurement in a bit.
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2013, 12:14 PM
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That's the same situation I have with my Detonics; the lower lugs are plenty thick, but I can put a thick shim between the hood and the breechface, which pulls the slide back to flush with the frame/ejector.
I use newsprint as my shim, since I'm usually working over an old back issue of Shotgun News. Some of my guns will take only three or four thicknesses of newsprint (~.01"), but the Detonics will take ten or twelve.
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2013, 12:42 PM
epat epat is offline
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disregard

Last edited by epat; 02-12-2013 at 12:46 PM.
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  #20  
Old 02-18-2013, 02:04 AM
Potrillo Potrillo is offline
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NIVEK, I first read, and commented on the great fitting of the grip safety, back on 2/11. Something has me curious, first, what you finally did to remedy the problem ? Also, while you did not state this was a new build, I figured it was, and it has nagged me as to why the frame, has been blued before the final fitting.... Were these components from an earlier,seperate build, coming together as a new unit ?... Obviously, not an answer to your original query, and furthermore, none of my business....Just curious... Thank you.
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  #21  
Old 02-18-2013, 11:22 AM
Nivek Nivek is offline
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Potrillo- I took a little more off the bottom side of the frame. It seemed to suck it in a little better. I had a bottle of blue lying around so I just gave the rear of the frame a quick cold blue to see how it would look. I'm decently happy with it. I'm afaird of taking to much more off of he frame. This is my first build I think next time I will try to fit a .250 radius. I am still undecided on what my final finish will be. Its between parkerized or hot blue. Thanks for the check up. Le me know if there is something I'm doing wrong or not doing. I haven't done anything with the slide/frame match up yet. I got another potential barrel/slide combo I might switch to also.
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