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  #1  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:00 PM
chambersaviator chambersaviator is offline
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Help me ID These Slide Stops.




I think they are Remington Rand but I'm not sure how to tell them apart from Ithaca. Any help appreciated!

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  #2  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:04 PM
chambersaviator chambersaviator is offline
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No 2

Sorry the pics on this one did not come out real good.









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  #3  
Old 06-04-2012, 01:34 AM
speedcrime speedcrime is offline
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They are MIM castings....probably from Caspian. Worthless, so just send them to me ;-)
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  #4  
Old 06-04-2012, 05:48 AM
chambersaviator chambersaviator is offline
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No need to trouble yourself Speedcrime... In that case I'll just add these little pieces of worthless metal to a load of scrap going to the metal yard
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  #5  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:04 AM
chambersaviator chambersaviator is offline
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Don't. Be shy folks. Need your opinions!
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  #6  
Old 06-04-2012, 09:03 AM
old cop old cop is offline
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They might be MIM parts but if so they are very high quality because I see no evidence of a sprue hole.

I still don't understand the panic over MIM parts. Almost every 1911 now uses them and if they were as bad as some say there shouldn't be a functional 1911 that was made after the turn of the century.
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  #7  
Old 06-04-2012, 09:24 AM
jrw248 jrw248 is offline
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Which century?
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  #8  
Old 06-04-2012, 11:13 AM
oldcolts oldcolts is offline
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Of the two posted, one has four ribs and one has five ribs. Most RR and Ithaca slide stops that I have seen recently have five ribs, although a few have four ribs. Were those original to the guns? Who knows. Some that I have looked at also have less prominent serrations than the ones that you show. There seems to be a considerable amount of variation involved.

The length of the serrated part of the slide stop looks about right on yours. Many of the later non-GI slide stops have a longer or shorter serrated section.

I also looked at what Joe Poyer has to say about this. He refers to the five rib slide stop as a Type 3 slide stop, which was used by RR. Ithaca, and on some Colt commercials. The four rib is a Type 4, used in post-WW II Colts.
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  #9  
Old 06-04-2012, 11:20 AM
speedcrime speedcrime is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chambersaviator View Post
No need to trouble yourself Speedcrime... In that case I'll just add these little pieces of worthless metal to a load of scrap going to the metal yard
LOL! I just foolin' around
No, they look like the real deal....is the first one blued?
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Last edited by speedcrime; 06-04-2012 at 11:22 AM.
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2012, 11:51 AM
38 Super +p 38 Super +p is online now
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I submitted an offer for the top one. They both have 5 serrations if you look close. I closely compared both of your slide stops to my broken original piece and they are, in my uneducated opinion, correct type 3 serrated slide stops. BTW, R.Rand, Ithaca, and Colt all used the type 3 slide stop in late WW2 production.

Last edited by 38 Super +p; 06-04-2012 at 11:58 AM.
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  #11  
Old 06-04-2012, 12:58 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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Here's the slide stop on a 1944 Ithaca. It's really hard to say if yours are WW2-era USGI or not. So many of these serrated slide stops have been made post-WW2 that it's pretty difficult to ID a proper WW2-era part anymore.

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Try not to fall into the common trap of wanting to replace everything on your new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out, and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot it for at least 500 rounds, then decide what you don't like and want improved. Vintage 1911's should NEVER be refinished or modified because it ruins any value they had as a collectible firearm.

Last edited by dsk; 06-04-2012 at 01:03 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2012, 01:16 PM
38 Super +p 38 Super +p is online now
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Well how did you know the one you changed out on your Ithaca was the correct one DSK??
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2012, 01:45 PM
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dsk dsk is offline
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The one I changed out was on a Remington Rand, which is why I didn't show it. This Ithaca stayed in the vet's garage for several decades, so it is most likely all original.
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Try not to fall into the common trap of wanting to replace everything on your new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out, and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot it for at least 500 rounds, then decide what you don't like and want improved. Vintage 1911's should NEVER be refinished or modified because it ruins any value they had as a collectible firearm.

Last edited by dsk; 06-04-2012 at 02:02 PM.
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2012, 09:26 PM
chambersaviator chambersaviator is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedcrime View Post
LOL! I just foolin' around
No, they look like the real deal....is the first one blued?
Me too

They are both parked.
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