How Picky should I be?

[jst1mortym]

Originally Posted by goetztrp

1911OP that is on here and has a flock of hawks said he always used oxpho-blue cream and said after letting it sit for a short while the marks would wipe right off.

goetztrp, I have the 4 fl oz bottle of Brownells Oxpho-Blue liquid gun blue and according to Brownells, it's basically the same stuff. I wasn't aware of it's properties as a means to remove brass marks and such. I bought it to try and touch up a blued pistol a long time ago. Can you also use it as a brass mark cleaner? I also have some Sweets copper fouling remover but that stuff is really harsh from what I've been told, and is basically used for the bore. I only use alcohol as a quick cleaner on the exterior and rails and such to remove grease and lubricants. I also have a can of aerosol Gun Scrbber but have yet to use it. I'm always looking for good cleaning tips!

[goetztrp]

Thats the stuff!!!! 1911OP (member here) If you search his posts you will see what he says but i remember people getting DB guns and talking about how to get rid of the brass marks and thats the stuff he used and said it worked great. He was the hawk guy around here but got busy with other things but if he was here i would bet he would tell you to use it. Heck you already have it so it won't cost you anything to try it.

[Igotsumtn2say]

Originally Posted by XKR

Never mine....just realized you are the OP of the other thread also...

That was actually my thread which was in regards to the marks that were a result of function. (the slide making contact with the dustcover).

This thread was started in regards to blemishes that were present on the firearm from day 1. Every time I begin to think I'm making a big deal here, I just think about that $3,700 price tag. That puts things into an appropriate perspective.

[kennethhardy]

Your not. You deserve the best for that coin.

[blr]

Looks like the vendor didnt get the slide perfectly clean prior to nitriding and/or black oxiding. More likely during black oxiding.

This is a complicated question, that is what to do/expect. I get the $3700 and it should be perfect line. And it should be MUCH better than a $1000 1911. No question. I'd be inclined to shoot it and not worry about it until it's (or you) are ready for a refinish. Then hit up NH for a discounted refinish....in Cerakote.

[SuHu]

Dust cover rub (or any other issue due to an inability to machine something straight) on a multi thousand dollar 1911 pisses me off to no end. I hate the whole "it's just cosmetic" excuse some will give you too. Sorry, but I'm not spending 3-4 thousand fricking dollars for a supposed hand built 1911 that simply functions with no regard to what it looks like. I can spend 500 bucks on a Glock if I only care about function.

You definitely deserve something free of obvious error for that much scratch.

[kennethhardy]

^^^^^^ Thank you. My point exactly. I have excepted the "its a tool response" from nighthawk. Thats me. This guy shouldnt be forced to think the same.

[Igotsumtn2say]

Originally Posted by blr

Looks like the vendor didnt get the slide perfectly clean prior to nitriding and/or black oxiding. More likely during black oxiding.

This is a complicated question, that is what to do/expect. I get the $3700 and it should be perfect line. And it should be MUCH better than a $1000 1911. No question. I'd be inclined to shoot it and not worry about it until it's (or you) are ready for a refinish. Then hit up NH for a discounted refinish....in Cerakote.

I think your diagnosis is corerect. It does appear that there was a streak present prior to the slide being finished. It really looks like something liquid ran down the slide and settled in. I tried some Hoppes solvent, but it

I wonder if it will take care of ALL the blemishes when I send it in to have the rub marks on the front refinished. If so, then I'll be bee 100% satisfied. So far, the function and over all shooting experience has been been completely satisfactory.