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  #1  
Old 05-06-2009, 08:11 AM
gjeepguy gjeepguy is offline
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Taurus PT1911 Hammer Replacement




so i want to get rid of the Taurus Lock out on the hammer of my PT1911.
what all do i need to replace?

Strut, Sear?

i dont really know what all this little lock involves.
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  #2  
Old 05-06-2009, 08:39 AM
chuckles007 chuckles007 is offline
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i took mine apart just to get to know it better, and it is a pain to put back together due to that little firing pin block/stopper thing. once you have the hammer out, you see that the lock is only a part of the hammer and nothing else. you may need to replace the hammer strut as well and the pin that holds the two together. search the pt1911 pictures thread for whose made the swap and ask them how involved it is, but from having the part out it doesn't look too complicated.
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  #3  
Old 05-06-2009, 06:20 PM
Japle Japle is offline
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I tried this with a customer's PT1911 and found that:

The hammer, sear, safety and trigger are all cut to non-standard-1911 specs.
If you want to replace the hammer, sear or safety you'd better plan on replacing them all and know exactly what you're doing.
If you want to replace just one, you'd better know EXACTLY what you're doing and have lots of time and patience. Fitting the part is gonna be a bitch.

The trigger cut in the PT1911 frame is deeper than 1911 spec. If you replace it with a 1911-spec trigger, the new part will sit farther foward than usual and will look really dumb. Plus, there'll be a lot of slop.

My customer traded his PT1911 for a SIG P220.
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2009, 04:23 PM
NK777 NK777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japle View Post
I tried this with a customer's PT1911 and found that:

The hammer, sear, safety and trigger are all cut to non-standard-1911 specs.
If you want to replace the hammer, sear or safety you'd better plan on replacing them all and know exactly what you're doing.
If you want to replace just one, you'd better know EXACTLY what you're doing and have lots of time and patience. Fitting the part is gonna be a bitch.

The trigger cut in the PT1911 frame is deeper than 1911 spec. If you replace it with a 1911-spec trigger, the new part will sit farther foward than usual and will look really dumb. Plus, there'll be a lot of slop.

My customer traded his PT1911 for a SIG P220.
Ummmm.... Okay!

I just did this very thing with my PT1911. None of the issues you described existed. I removed the old hammer, then punched out the hammer strut pin, and removed the hammer strut. Reinstalled in reverse order using only the new Wilson Combat Hammer. All the old parts went together in the new hammer just fine. I just got done test firing it and other then the trigger actually being slightly lighter (which I don't mind BTW) it works flawlessly. The hammer is slightly shorter by 1/16" maybe then the PT1911 locking BS hammer but that's hardly noticeable. I guess I should mention that in the process I also removed that series 80 firing pin block BS at the same time.
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2009, 06:39 PM
Japle Japle is offline
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NK, I'm glad it worked out for you. As I said, my experience is with one PT1911 and it's always possible that Taurus went to standard spec parts since that one was made. I hope so. I'll have to check with Wilson; they've specified that their parts aren't intended for PT1911s.

Next time you strip your gun, do me a favor and compare the placement of the full-cock notch and the hammer strut on the two hammers. They were not the same on the Taurus I examined.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2009, 11:16 PM
NK777 NK777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japle View Post
NK, I'm glad it worked out for you. As I said, my experience is with one PT1911 and it's always possible that Taurus went to standard spec parts since that one was made. I hope so. I'll have to check with Wilson; they've specified that their parts aren't intended for PT1911s.

Next time you strip your gun, do me a favor and compare the placement of the full-cock notch and the hammer strut on the two hammers. They were not the same on the Taurus I examined.
Quite possible that the older PT1911 were different I have no experience with the older ones.

The placement of the full cock notch and hammer strut were dimensionally the same to the naked eye today when I did the swap. I did compare before reassembly just in case Taurus did something weird their as well.

Another notable difference on my PT1911 vs others is that the Taurus firing pin is shorter then normal 1911's I have. I noticed this weeks ago trying to figure out a light primer strike issue. I ordered a titanium firing pin replacement and also swapped that in today. With the slightly longer 1911 firing pin I have no more light strikes unless I use the extra power wolf firing pin spring. I set the gun up to run 45 Super that I hand load and unfortunately when firing Super I need the heavier firing pin spring or I end up punching holes in the 45 Super rounds primers. With the stock Taurus firing pin spring it fires regular 45 ACP flawlessly. I'm ordering 3 heavier wolf hammer springs tonight that I'm hoping will allow me to tune the gun for both Super and 45 ACP using the extra heavy firing pin spring. I do realize that I most likely now have a lockup timing issue now and the heavier main/hammer spring should hopefully remedy that issue by allowing it to stay locked up just a tad longer before the slide fly's to the rear.

Oh and in case your wondering my 45 Super conversion is simple and I'm not new to the conversion at all. I use a dual recoil spring setup with shock buff and a extra heavy firing pin spring.

Last edited by NK777; 05-20-2009 at 02:00 AM.
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:12 AM
NewShockerGuy NewShockerGuy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NK777 View Post
Ummmm.... Okay!

I just did this very thing with my PT1911. None of the issues you described existed. I removed the old hammer, then punched out the hammer strut pin, and removed the hammer strut. Reinstalled in reverse order using only the new Wilson Combat Hammer. All the old parts went together in the new hammer just fine. I just got done test firing it and other then the trigger actually being slightly lighter (which I don't mind BTW) it works flawlessly. The hammer is slightly shorter by 1/16" maybe then the PT1911 locking BS hammer but that's hardly noticeable. I guess I should mention that in the process I also removed that series 80 firing pin block BS at the same time.
Do you have a part number or link to what you replaced via the firing pin block? I am curious because I want to replace the hammer on mine but wasn't sure if I needed to replace the firing pin and that stuff... I'm looking at the C&S that replace it with a matched sear, disconnect sear spring, and hammer.

Thanks,
-Nigel
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  #8  
Old 03-12-2012, 10:03 AM
Rick McC. Rick McC. is offline
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I know that they have enough "non-spec" stuff going on that (after my first encounter with one); I stay away from them.

I won't buy one and I won't work one one.

Rick
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:27 PM
Brian R. Brian R. is offline
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I substituted in a Wilson bulletproof sear, hammer, strut, pin, sear spring, and disconnect. They fit in my PT1911 without modification and worked great. The best trigger feel of any of my guns after I polished my trigger stirrup and trigger housing area. Of course I needed a new thumb safety.
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Last edited by Brian R.; 03-13-2012 at 09:52 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2012, 11:37 PM
NewShockerGuy NewShockerGuy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian R. View Post
I substituted in a Wilson bulletproof sear, hammer, strut, pin, sear spring, and disconnect. They fit in my PT1911 without modification and worked great. The best trigger feel of any of my guns after I polished my trigger spur and trigger housing area. Of course I needed a new thumb safety.
Good to know!

I have on order the following:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/382...cm_vc=wishList

It's complete with sear, disconnect and hammer, and sear spring.. they are all fitted so I figure rather than replacing just the hammer, and then having to tweak stuff might as well do it right.

Also figured I'd get this trigger.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/654...cm_vc=wishList

And I am glad you brought up the safety... I will have to get that. I'd rather modify the NEW parts than modifing parts I already know work so if something happens I have spares that I know work fine and I can just drop them in at a later time..

Really only reason doing this is because I want s/s parts to contrast the black gun...lol

Overall the trigger and everything on this gun is great. I really enjoy it. Very pleased I got the pt1911 as a first 1911. No matter what the nay sayers say about it. It works for me and that's what matters.

-Nigel
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  #11  
Old 03-13-2012, 01:00 AM
beretaus beretaus is offline
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I've done some of the same things as NK777, only I went with a .40Super and 400CorBon. Right now it's in the 45acp config for the winter. I have a Sprinco heavy duty dual spring set-up,the stock hammer spring,and a extra power firing pin spring, plus a non radious FPS.It works great,timing passed all tests ,the only issue I ran into was twice the lock in the hammer partially popping out and locking up the hammer when firing the Super.I am going to replace it shortly. Nothing I replaced so far has been different than a spec 1911. I do know the sights are different.
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2012, 02:54 PM
M. Robins M. Robins is offline
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I am not recommending this but if you want to disable the lock without buying any parts it is simple and quick. There is a tiny triangular protrusion on the top of the hammer strut that is the brace for the lock. This tiny protrusion could be easily removed with a rotary tool. With this removed the lock has nothing to catch on and will not work anymore. No need to buy another hammer, just a reliable gun lock.
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2012, 03:20 PM
rotciv rotciv is offline
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Or you can remove the whole hammer locking mechanizm by pushing out the roll pin at the bottom of the hammer that hold the mechanizm to the hammer, sure you'll have a hole on top of the hammer if the mechanizm bothers you that much, after owning my PT1911 since 2008 and firing over 19K rounds through it I hardly notice the hammer safety any more, the stock hammer works just fine, no need to fix whats not broke.

shoot safe, shoot straight, and have fun
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