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  #1  
Old 01-07-2009, 09:33 AM
DW Bobby DW Bobby is offline
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Lube point diagram




I tore my new CBOB apart a couple of times last night to do some internal fondling and lubrication and I'm wondering of anyone knows of a good, complete, lube point diagram for the 1911--or even specifically this one. If that's a wholly redundant statement, please excuse my newbe ignorance--I've only ever known just the Gov 1911 I carried in the 80's/90's!

Wow--I just can't say enough about this weapon. Who says money can't buy hapiness. That ought to be Dan Wesson's slogan:

"Money can buy hapiness! Dan Wesson"

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  #2  
Old 01-07-2009, 09:40 AM
numbers numbers is offline
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+1 on the Diagram
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2009, 10:28 AM
tturnerpmti tturnerpmti is offline
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That diagram would be nice! I haven't seen one in any 1911 owners manual yet. They just say "lube liberally". Do they mean for us to dunk it in a barrel of Break Free or Militech?!!? All playing aside, I would love to have that diagram. I'll search the web for anything and post if I see something worth posting.
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2009, 10:32 AM
mer mer is offline
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In the 1911 Maintenance booklet you can get from Wilson, he talks specifically about how much and exactly where. I don't recall a diagram, but there may be one. Over on www.m1911.org down in "Technical Issues" there are some pretty specific instructions also.
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  #5  
Old 01-07-2009, 10:48 AM
tturnerpmti tturnerpmti is offline
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This is basic information for 1911 maintenance. It seems pretty informative, but no diagrams. They do harp on teflon style oils, but that's their opinion, and we all have ours. Just use what you like and trust, just no grease until it's past break-in, and not in cold temps. I've read a few threads that say the gun w/ grease gets sluggish in colder temps, caused by the jelling of the thicker composition. Same reason you run a thinner oil in your vehicle in colder climates/states. Hope this helps

http://www.sightm1911.com/Care/1911_...tm#Maintenance Schedule
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  #6  
Old 01-07-2009, 11:05 AM
pkuptruck007 pkuptruck007 is offline
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Simple.

remove magazine.

clear chamber

dunk it in a pail full of oil.

shake dry. ( or if your a wuss, towel dry it)

insert magazine.

chamer round.

fire.

better yet. Buy.build a gun that isnt so danm needy.
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  #7  
Old 01-07-2009, 11:16 AM
pharoah pharoah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkuptruck007 View Post
remove magazine.

clear chamber

dunk it in a pail full of oil.

shake dry. ( or if your a wuss, towel dry it)

insert magazine.

chamer round.

fire.

better yet. Buy.build a gun that isnt so danm needy.
DON'T DO THAT!!!...you'll get your grips all oily
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:05 PM
LHB1 LHB1 is offline
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Field strip the 1911 and put one or two drops of oil anywhere two metal parts move/slide/rotate against one another. Frequently you will see a polished/burnished surface where this occurs.
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:13 PM
7of7 7of7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pharoah View Post
DON'T DO THAT!!!...you'll get your grips all oily
just remove the grips....
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  #10  
Old 01-07-2009, 01:57 PM
Viking66 Viking66 is offline
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I found this in a Defence review article.

Not a diagram, but a pretty good write up if you ask me.

"Lubrication:
TW25B, a lightweight milky consistency Teflon bearing grease, is excellent for carry and deployment. It does not dry off, run out of crevices, and is resistant to harsh weather and sandy/gritty environments. It is my preference for general carry and mission use. For range use, a light oil such as FP-10, Militec, or Kellube is fine. I do not like Break Free since the oil needs to be shaken to mix up the Teflon particles. For tightly fitted guns, this oil tends to drain out or dry with carry, and does not provide adequate lubrication without reapplication. A good compromise is to combine a light grease, such as Lubriplate or Tetragrease, with one of the above oils. This gives the benefit of long lasting lubrication and adhesion with the lubricity of the oils. Some tightly fitted guns will not function well with straight Lubriplate or Tetra. Conversely, using straight TW25B is much less complicated and achieves the same end result. The greases can be applied with a small brush, such as the acid brushes available from Brownell’s and MSC. Simply apply some of the grease, add a few drops of oil over it, and brush evenly over the contact area.

Frame: Apply lubrication to the rails and the disconnector head. The trigger bow, hammer, sear, disconnector, and applicable Series 80 levers should be lubricated appropriately during assembly. The hammer and sear engagement surfaces should be lubricated often. I use Trigger Slick, a molybdenum disulfide grease originally marketed by Chip McCormick. Trigger Slick is now available from STI. TW25B is also effective. Throwing a drop of oil down onto the front of the hammer (while assembled) before a range session is helpful for maintaining lubrication on this critical wear area.
Slide: Lubricate the radial lugs, the rear of the hood extension, the lower lugs, link, and full diameter of the muzzle end of the barrel. The bushing/barrel contact area should be generously lubricated.
During assembly, light lubrication can also be applied to the circumference of the rear of the firing pin body (where there may be oil grooves on some brand firing pins), the middle lug and the locator pad of the extractor. These have minimal effect, but are also moving (or slightly moving) parts that may increase overall system friction, depending on your gun’s setup.

Range lube: The lubrication method outlined above will prepare your pistol for extended periods of carry and will normally be fine for a range session of 2-400 rounds, even after carrying for several weeks. While at the range for an extended session, class, etc. you may fire a larger volume of ammunition before you have a chance to strip and clean your weapon. To increase reliability between cleanings, here are some lubrication points that can help.
With the gun cocked but slide closed, place a drop of oil in front of the hammer to lubricate the hammer hooks/sear nose contact. This point is easily located between the rear of the frame and the bottom of the hammer’s strike face. Apply oil to the front of the barrel hood to lubricate the radial lug recesses – this is the most critical area to oil, as it is an area of very high friction. Too much is just fine here. Lock the slide back and apply oil to the disconnector head and to the exposed area of the barrel/bushing contact area. Put a drop of oil on your finger and rub it on the rear of the barrel hood extension. On a properly fitted match grade barrel, this area will bear fully against the breech face in lockup."
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2009, 02:21 PM
DW Bobby DW Bobby is offline
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Just to be sarcastic, what part of "diagram" don't we understand.

*And just to be serious, thanks for the text references too!
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2009, 03:14 PM
Viking66 Viking66 is offline
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Well, not to be sarcastic.

I looked for over an hour for a lube diagram, and could not find any on the net. I am sure you could buy a book.

For now I guess as long as you can determine the locations of the parts identified in my last post, the diagram will have to be in your head.
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2009, 03:22 PM
LHB1 LHB1 is offline
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The use of sarcasm will not encourage future responses to your questions, especially when you want us to do your research for you. If diagrams were readily available don't you think they would have been so referenced?
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2009, 04:42 PM
rbert0005 rbert0005 is offline
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If you guys need pictures I recomend getting the Wilson Combat Maaintenance Manual. It will tell you everything you need to know about taking care of a 1911.

Bob
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2009, 04:43 PM
DW Bobby DW Bobby is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHB1 View Post
If diagrams were readily available don't you think they would have been so referenced?
Which is the reason for my post...not to be sarcastic!
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  #16  
Old 01-07-2009, 04:50 PM
mer mer is offline
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Get this. Actually get a few, then you can use them for the Valentine's Day Karma thread.

http://www.wilsoncombat.com/a_book_401.asp
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2009, 05:04 PM
ADC ADC is offline
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If you can ever get a good look at a fully disassembled well used (like a M1911A1 ) there will be no doubt in your mind where to lube.
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2009, 05:37 PM
pkuptruck007 pkuptruck007 is offline
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dunking..

Still like my idea better.
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  #19  
Old 01-07-2009, 05:57 PM
mer mer is offline
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You idea is incomplete. You didn't specify the weight of the oil.

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  #20  
Old 01-07-2009, 06:43 PM
HillbillyJames HillbillyJames is offline
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Harley Davidson 20W-50 seems to work pretty well
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  #21  
Old 01-07-2009, 07:20 PM
leade45 leade45 is offline
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It's not rocket science. Frame/Slide Rails, outside of barrel, barrel lugs, slide stop, hammer hooks/face. A touch of oil under the thumb safety and around the mag release.

Chow.
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  #22  
Old 01-07-2009, 08:07 PM
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Butthead Butthead is offline
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For a basic post field strip lube:
Attached Thumbnails
oiling2.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 02-01-2009, 04:54 PM
kc_newbie kc_newbie is offline
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What do you think?

This site appears to have pictures . . . does it seem complete and accurate? Remember I'm a total newb. Gun still 2 days from delivery!

http://www.m1911.org/prodte35.htm
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