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Cleaning your 1911

25K views 50 replies 37 participants last post by  Mike Stolfus 
#1 ·
I am a first time 1911 owner (Kimber) and I was wondering what tips/suggestions do you all have for cleaning your 1911? What are the best methods for cleaning the barrel?

Suggestions for cleaner and lube?

Thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
I think there are plenty of threads already on this, but I personally prefer Break-Free CLP because it simplifies the cleaning process. It's both lube and solvent in one. There are better lubes and better solvents, but like I said, I'll take that in exchange for the simplicity. It's used by the military, so you could do alot worse. Plus, it kinda smells good.

As for the process of cleaning itself, don't worry too much about it. It's a gun, not a surgical instrument. It doesn't have to be sterilized every 100 shots. Toothbrushes and cheap white cotton undershirts are your friend; they make great patches when ripped up. I like to give my barrel a good deep cleaning maybe every 500-700 rounds or so; otherwise I just run a few patches through it. Don't bother trying to remove every last bit of copper during a routine cleaning, because it's all back there after the first shot.
 
#4 ·
What I've done for the past 40 years is this:

Big vat with wired french fry type basket

dissassemble weapon, place in basket, dunk. Return later and clean.

Nowadays I've gone out and purchased one of those stainless steel deep fat fryers, disabled the heating element and removed the cord, filled the bin with hoppes #9 and use the basket to hold all the parts with the exception of the grips.

When I break in a weapon I use that bore foam every 100 rounds along with a light wipe down and Wilson's Ultima lube.
 
#7 ·
Sound like either I or somebody else needs to make a thread about cleaning and sticky it in the FAQ section. This question comes up about every other week.
 
#49 ·
Great idea ! - we see a really wide range of almost religious beliefs on how frequently cleaning is needed - I think it is if interest that, when Colt ran that 6000 rounds without a malfunction in 1911 - they cleaned that gun only every 1000 rounds - and I suspect if they thought cleaning it more often was needed to prevent malfunctions and win the contract with Army Ordinance, iit would have been done more frequently - plus, I'm pretty certain we shoot cleaner ammo now than wa used in the test.

They cooled it every 100 rounds but didn't say how -

DSK - I suspect if you have the time to do it and wouldn't mind doing it - you are probably the most qualified to do it.
 
#21 ·
Just stick it in the dishwasher !
Actually, back in the 80's I think it was, a company came out with a Titanium snub nose 38 that they claimed could be cleaned in the dishwasher. Now, it's just going to take time for me to dig that freaking magazine out and scan the article lol.
 
#10 ·
It's not Rocket-Science. If you shoot FMJs or HPs use a good copper solvent, cast bullets, use Hoppe's. Clean the frame/slide with Hoppe's regardless.

If it slides-grease it. If it rotates-oil it. Grease on the rails, a good gun-oil on the rest. If you're going to shoot it again within the month you don't need to oil the barrel.Use a rod, push-thru jags,no loops. And a good phospher-Bronze brush. Clean from the breech.
 
#12 ·
This is the method I use for all the 1911's that I've owned:

I mostly use Mil-Comm products, specifically their Firearm Cleaner/Degreaser, and their Synthetic Grease, "TW25B" (whatever that means). It comes in a syringe and is very similar to Wilson's 'Ultima-Lube' grease. Either product is great. For oil, I use Blue Wonder Disotec XFR. A friend recommended it to me and I haven't looked back. It's kept my barrel rust-free without fail.

I field strip mine and use Q-tips, toothbrushes, and those heavy-duty blue paper towels you can buy at hardware stores as wiping rags to get all the gunk out of the gun. I use a Hoppe's Bore Snake for my barrel. Once I've got it cleaned and bone-dry, I use the synthetic grease ONLY on the tracks. I use the Disotec XFR on all the other spots that need lube.

Personally, I've found this to be a great method. The feeling of cycling the slide of a broken-in Kimber lubed up with synthetic grease back and forth is a feeling all it's own. Smooth as glass.
 
#15 · (Edited)
People actually clean their guns? :biglaugh:

I shoot once or twice a week 100-200rds a time, so I clean my 1911 throughly every 2-3 weeks...

Typically I'll take the slide off every week, whip the dirt down with a paper towel and relube barrel and the rails.

For the actual cleaning.. break it down...

Take some Hoppes #9, put it on everything(slide, inside barrel, outside barrel, frame rails, feed ramp)

Take a brush... brush it all up... spray it clean with brake cleaner... take a brush, brush out the barrel, push a few patches through it... look for any lead build-up... clean it if there is(typically is almost none, I shoot lead reloads)

Once everyhtings clean.. inside barrel gets lubed with a patch of light oil along with the recoil spring... the the outside of the barrel, barrel bushing, slide, slide rails get a few drops of my home brewed lube(STP oil treatment w/ ATF fluid) put it all together, whip off access lube, spray a paper towel with brake cleaner, whip off the outside of the gun and its good to go.

I have the Kimpro finish on my kimber so its really easy to clean and doesn't need lubing afterwards other than moving parts.


I used to be one that would clean their guns throughly every time I went shooting.. and then I started competing and I realized that cleaning my gun with a toothpick to get it spotless twice a week would drive me insane.... my other guns that I don't shoot too often I'll clean them before they go into storage... but my 1911 gets used too much to justify it... I just make sure it stays wet so I'm not running it un-lubed.

If it makes you feel any better there are guys in IPSC that put thousands of rounds through their gun before they push a patch through their barrel... Just remember if you don't have time to clean it, make sure its stays lubed.

MIke.
 
#24 ·
Field strip it after every shooting session. If it slides, LIGHTLY grease it. If it pivots, oil it. If this is your carry gun, do this every week, minimum. Wipe the crud out of the barrel with a good solvent. Oil bore lightly if storing, leave dry if carrying.

Every 5K-10K or so rounds, or once a year, whichever is sooner, strip it down to pieces parts (detail strip) and rinse everything metal with lighter fluid (naptha) while holding it over your sink. This will rinse all the un-reachable crud out and leave no residue. Check for wear and damage when you do this.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Hoppes #9 Solvent
FP-10 for Lube, Wilson grease, Mobil 1, Slip2000, whatever for a lube. Just keep in mind cold climates and not using a grease.
Breakfree CLP for cleaner and preservative

Break the gun down. Soak Barrel in Hoppes for an hour. Wipe slide and Frame down with Hoppes than finish with the CLP.
Using break cleaner on a gun to remove any clp or lube will hasten rust so be careful. Using it to clean is ok, just use CLP after it to prevent corrosion.

Brush out Barrel with Hoppes, finished with CLP. Patch out excess CLP in barrel. Lube with FP-10.

Ur done.
 
#34 ·
Hoppes #9 over everything with brush......wipe off all the Hoppes with rag, q-tips and or canned air. I use a jag on the barrel with Hoppes, dry patches then a CLP patch. Oil the the key parts, slide rails etc and you're done.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Just a parting shot...

Behold the World's Greatest Bore Solvent Dispenser Bottle:



Pull off the nozzle, dump out the saline, pull off the straw that's attached to the nozzle and throw it away; you won't be needing it. Then refill the bottle with your preferred solvent/cleaning solution and replace the (now strawless) nozzle.

With this bottle (take note of the pointy top!) you can have a steady, controllable stream of solvent or apply it drop by drop. No (wife infuriating) spills if you knock the bottle over and you don't crud up and contaminate the whole bottle of clean solvent by dipping now dirty brushes back in the bottle.
 
#40 ·
Just a parting shot...

Behold the World's Greatest Bore Solvent Dispenser Bottle:



Pull off the nozzle, dump out the saline, pull off the straw that's attached to the nozzle and throw it away; you won't be needing it. Then refill the bottle with your preferred solvent/cleaning solution and replace the (now strawless) nozzle.
Don't forget to re-label the container so it doesn't get mistaken for actual nasal spray.
 
#37 ·
Just a couple of additional notes. If you use Brake Cleaner, be sure to use the UNchlorinated brake cleaner. Great for cleaning but it will dry the pistol completely and you should use CLP or similar to prevent rust. Also, remove the grips; it will eat the finish in seconds.
Also, nobody mentioned Ed's Red. If you are on a budget, this is a great cleaner/solvent and it is cheap to make. You can just remove the grips and dunk the entire pistol in the solution. Then dry it out on an old towel.Here is a link to a website explaining all about Ed's Red, with a recipe and mixing instructions. Or, Google "Ed's Red" and you will find lots of information.
 
#38 ·
Or, Google "Ed's Red" and you will find lots of information.
Ed's Red is just equal parts mineral spirits, kerosene, acetone, Dextron ATF and some lanolin. I leave out the lanolin, personally, since it's PITA to work with. I mix batches a gallon at a time and store it in a plastic gasoline "can" like you'd use for your lawnmower. I think it's as good, if not better, than most commercial bore solvents.
 
#39 ·
I'm bad about cleaning but I only need brake cleaner for firing pin bores or the like,and small tight spots like external extractor cuts.I immediately use a Q Tip or something to coat it with CLP and let it sit as I do other things.Remove the excess and assemble.If Hoppes is too weak I ran it way too long.
 
#42 ·
Breakfree CLP for removing crap. Some old style thick oil for preservation and lubing. Spray stuff vaporizes fast.

when cleaning
Use a copper brush, CLP, rags, boresnake to clean the barrel.
A rag to polish ramp. Then apply oil with a plastic brush.
Use toothbrush, CLP and rag to clean rails and under the extractor nail.
Push a rag through the bushing.

Oil every moving part somewhat after cleaning. American designed guns seem to run on oil.

Before shooting remove barrel oil with boresnake.
 
#44 ·
I do not clean after every range trip, but I do swab the barrel/barrels after every trip with a couple of oil patches to get the loose stuff out and put in a film of rust protectant.

I use this method for every gun I have when I deep clean:
1) field strip or detail strip
2) wet parts with mineral spirits, let soak a bit, tooth brush scrub.
3) Rinse loose **** with "Gun Scrubber" or regular brake cleaner.
4) Reassemble and lube.

I use a lighter fluid bottle (the yellow Ronsonol with the blue lid and squirter) for the mineral spirits. Also, I only brass brush a barrel 'bout every 1000 rounds, or so. Copper doesn't seem to build up in a pistol like it does in a rifle, and I don't use lead; I hate cleaning it out of a barrel. As some say, old white towels and T-shirts are great to use; keep all of them you come across. I think T-shirt material works better than gun patches, anyway.

There are a number of ways and products for gun cleaning. Most of them work well. Just find a combination that works well for you. Happy shooting. :)
 
#45 · (Edited)
I'm amazed nobody gave this advice to this 1911 noob. REMOVE THE RECOIL SPRING AND PLUNGER VERy CAREFULLY WHEN YOU DISASSEMBLE YOUR GUN. This issue has happened to most all of us 1911 affectionados at one time or another. If you don't remove the spring and plunger carefully after you turn the barrel bushing clockwise to remove them, the plunger shoots out of there like a bullet; so, take care when rotating that barrel bushing!!!! After full disassembly, clean like you would any other firearm. I use Hoppe's No. 9 and a good copper brush. Afterward, I use Outer's gun oil for moving parts and when needed, Sig grease on the slide rails of an automatic. I shoot my guns frequently, so I don't normally oil the bore. Oh, and the advice about Q-Tips was spot on....definately a useful thing to have is a big box of them.
 
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