Some will tell you to install a 32# recoil spring and have at it. I think the recoil spring is about the least important part in the conversion, but you should go higher than ACP. Ace Customs, who developed the Super round, had a fairly extensive conversion kit, and you may be able to find a list of the contents. When I was working with a friend, to convert his Kimber Classic to Super, I was guided by my experience with my own Delta Elite. I won't tell you what to do with your gun, but here's what I did with mine: First and foremost, install EGW firing pin stop with minimal radius on the heel. Replace the mainspring with a 25# unit. Depending on the load, install a recoil spring of 20#-24#. I used a Cominolli frame-saver guid rod on my Delta, and a conventional shok-buff on the .45. Last, maybe not of much use, but conceptually an improvement, is to put a 10-round magazine spring in your standard mag tube. This reduces the capacity one round, but the slide velocity is such that a weak mag spring won't be able to keep up, so the "Super Mag" should add a bit of insurance.
Ace Custom 45s in Texas registered the 45 Super name and offer a "45 Super Conversion" package on their website. The conversion includes the following:
-Lower & flare the ejection port
-Extended ejector
-Heavy duty dual recoil springs
-Installation and fitting of the recoil guide rod and buffer system
-Jewel outside barrel chamber, sides of hammer & trigger (if appl.)
-Modify firing pin or replace
-Heavy duty extractor
-Heavy duty firing pin spring
With the exception of a heavier recoil spring, buffer, and modifying the firing pin to a shorter length, I don't see anything on this list that doesn't come on most 1911s from the factory. Jeweling the barrel will not make the pistol any more suitable for firing 45 Super. A few years ago the fellow that runs the Realguns website bought a Kimber specifically for this purpose and all he did was drop a 28# Wolf recoil spring in it and fired several hundred rounds of Super handloads. At the end of his testing there was no unusual wear or battering of the frame. You can go to the Realguns site and read about it in the archive, and I would recommend you do that before taking the plunge. Ace Custom would have you believe it's not a good idea to fire 45 Super from your pistol until they've collected several hundred dollars to accomplish what you can do for $20. I have been wrong many times before, but I don't think any of their modifications will offer significant improvement over what you can do at home.
The better question is why do you want to shoot 45 Super? It will be harder on the pistol, recoil will be significantly more, and recovery time between shots will be slower. I can see it if you want more umph for hunting, but IMO it just diminishes the pistol for defensive purposes.
I converted a Para P-14 (only cause it has a ramped barrel) to handle 45 Super and like already said here, its pretty much a hunting only calibur. It also beats the heck out of your gun.
Well - if I were facing a BEAR - a ballistics edge would be my FIRST consideration versus how easy it was to get ammo - cause it may be more difficult to out run a wounded BEAR - you could get a S&W 625 and go either way - 45 super or 460 rowland - with the revolver no worry about jam or mal- function. :rock:
With bears, any bear, except maybe Yogi in the cartoons, I like rifles, and if your rifle is in your vehicle, then the .44 Mag. is not bad. In the sort of 1911 platform there was the Grizzley LAR shooting the 45 Win Mag, if you want to do that.
I didn't notice earlier that the OP said it was for a PT1911. Good Lord man, you go and shoot something like a 45 Super in a PT1911 and that guns going to blow apart like a hand grenade. Use something with a ramped barrel and built strong enough to hold together because your chances of getting eaten by a bear are alot less than getting killed by the flying mim pt shrapnel -IMO
Now you are taking my language - a 44mag on the hip or a 460 smith is a much safer outfit than a semiautio - in the rush of adrinilin (sp?) no safety to worry about - just pull the trigger :rock:
Actually there are several company's that produce the 460 Rowland round,Ga. arms,Corbon,Buffalo Bore,etc. Clark Custom makes a conversion for the 1911 that cost about 300.00 and it is pretty much drop in.I have an old 70's comp gun converted to the Rowland 9 rounds of 44 mag power in 1911,good woods carry piece or hunting handgun for deer hog etc.
A minimal radius firing pin stop puts undo stress on the hammer strut. The 1911 locks up tight as the gasses expand pushing the bullet out the barrel. It isn't until then when the pressure drops it unlocks driving the slide to the rear. Your probably better off compensating such a gun to bring down the pressure s to more reasonable level while maintaining reasonable spring rates that compliment one anther.
I play with a 45 win mag. Just an idea. I still haven't got all the answers. I know they beat the gun up if it isn't right.
I agree if you are dealing with the power of a 460 Rowland or 45 win mag the compensater is a must or you beat up the gun not to mention your hand.
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